Stalls when engine is cold, runs fine when warm - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 6 Old 07-17-2013, 05:18 PM Thread Starter
sweetrice80
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2000 WJ 
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: College Park
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Wj Stalls when engine is cold, runs fine when warm

Hey guys, I would first like to thank you in advance for your help.

My 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee has been acting strange lately. When engine is cold (leaving it sit off for 4 to 6 hours) it has a hard start and Stalls if I try to drive it. But after the car gets warmed up a little after a few time turning the engine and pushing on the accelerator it runs fine. I am in the market for a new Jeep in the next few months and really do not want to spend too much money on this fix. I want to be well verse in this area before taking it to the shop.

Thanks David

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post #2 of 6 Old 07-17-2013, 07:14 PM Thread Starter
sweetrice80
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: College Park
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I let my car cool down for a 3.5 hours, went back out and tried to start it, wouldn't start. So I turn the key and gave it some gas, started right up, but the minute I took my foot off the gas the call stalled. So I started it back up again and held on the accelerator for a good minute about about 1500 rpm, then let go of the gas, the jeep stayed running. I took the car for a little drive, came back, turned the car off, waited a about 5 minutes the Jeep started right up. I did not need to put my foot on the gas or anything started up like it has been before the problem.

So it doesn't take much thought for me to think that it may have something to do with the gas not getting into the engine when I am trying to start the jeep. But I am dumbfounded when the car is hot/warm there are no start up or stalling problems. If it was really something to do with the gas not getting to the engine then why does it start up fine when its still warm? But when it sits for a good while it does not start up normal?

Thanks in advance.

David
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post #3 of 6 Old 07-17-2013, 08:48 PM
new2site
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Is the engine light on? Did you check for codes?
Do this...(* "ON" means turning the key forward just short of cranking over engine...so just dash lights come on)
Turn the key-ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON and leave it on and the codes should appear in the odometer readout. You have to do it within 5 seconds. Be sure you are not turning key past OFF to ACC.

Could be your crank/or cam shaft positioning sensor....common problem....has it ever died while driving?
Usually though these have opposite symptoms....starts once cooled off....but not always...
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post #4 of 6 Old 07-17-2013, 09:03 PM
new2site
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Also it could be your battery.... recently mine was behaving somewhat similarly to yours...sometimes start...other times just crank and crank...but you could clearly hear the engine cranking over strong each try..but the voltage was just low enough to where the PCM/ECM was not getting enough voltage.
I brought my battery over to Autozone for warranty (5 year) after testing it showing a low voltage..and they recharged it and said it was fine....I then tested it again with my multimeter and it was only at around 10.5 volts! I replaced battery....everything back working.
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post #5 of 6 Old 07-18-2013, 06:16 AM Thread Starter
sweetrice80
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: College Park
Posts: 10
I am praying its the battery, going to take the battery to get checked after work. But it just does not feel like a battery issue as it starts up no problem once the car is "warm" enough (been running for a good 10 mins).

My engine light is always on, I have an electrical problem with my check engine light it displays the codes for a piston misfire, but wont go away (even after I get them cleared). I guess I could always check the codes again to see if another code displays.
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post #6 of 6 Old 07-18-2013, 09:33 AM
new2site
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sweetrice80 View Post
My engine light is always on, I have an electrical problem with my check engine light it displays the codes for a piston misfire, but wont go away (even after I get them cleared).
That's a red flag for a failing PCM.... false codes...
If you have jumper cables you could reset the PCM yourself and see if any codes show back up-false or real.

Disconnect positive cable from battery.. clamp one lead of jumper cable to it(the positive cable which is now disconnected from battery)..and the other lead/end of jumper cable connect to your engine mount(for grounding) ...wait about 30 seconds and reconnect your battery...this will reset your PCM.
Then start it up...let it run for a minute...and then perform "ON/OFF" procedure listed above and see if there's codes back on..
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