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Unread 08-10-2014, 01:24 PM   #1
jetrinka
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Squeaking KOR bushings

Around 1-2 months ago I installed a JKS track bar along with the KOR bushing/sleeve kit. It seems the polyurethane grease stuff I put in there during assembly has worn out and the frame side bushing has started creaking... Its very irritating...

I REALLY don't want to have to remove the bar and bushings to re-grease everything every month. Anyone who has installed this bushing kit knows the clearances between the supplied bolt and sleeve is insanely close which makes removal a not very attractive option. The bushings are also rough to get in. I had to use a vice to install mine so I am not even sure how i'd get them out without destroying them.

Has anyone found a good solution for this? Like a penetrating oil that is safe on these bushings? I realize it probably won't last as long as a good greasing but I will be happy if I can just spray some stuff on there every month to keep the creaking a bay rather than having to disassemble everything.

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Unread 08-10-2014, 07:24 PM   #2
narnwv
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why not use the grease fitting and a grease gun?
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Unread 08-10-2014, 07:47 PM   #3
jetrinka
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Actually install a grease fitting in the track bar? I hadn't thought about that.
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Unread 08-10-2014, 07:48 PM   #4
narnwv
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Does it not already have one? There should be a grease fitting in either end of it.
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Unread 08-10-2014, 07:51 PM   #5
jetrinka
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You made me second guess myself and I had to go look haha. But no there is no grease fitting or hole for one on either side unfortunately.
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Unread 08-10-2014, 07:53 PM   #6
narnwv
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Now I'm second guessing myself. I swear mine has a grease fitting on either end.


OT: What kind of grease did you use? I like a good poly-safe waterproof grease.
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Unread 08-10-2014, 08:27 PM   #7
jetrinka
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It is a grease called Viperlube made by Locktite. Its a synthetic grease that can be used on polyurethane bushing components according to their product description. I sprayed some all over that end of the track bar hoping that some will work its way in while driving but I am not very optimistic... I might just bite the bullet and remove the bolt on that end, lower the bar and grease up the bushing ends. I am almost certain its the bushing ends creaking against the slot on the frame it bolts to. However I might try something first. ATF and acetone makes a good penetrating oil of sorts but instead of using ATF I am going to try using the grease. Combine the two and hopefully the acetone will carry the grease where it needs to be. If it works i'll make up a good batch of it, put it in a sealed container and use it when I need.
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Unread 08-10-2014, 11:00 PM   #8
losttech
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I like this stuff holds up well and is safe for most everything.
http://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-Gre...nthetic+grease
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Unread 08-11-2014, 10:01 AM   #9
Tollmtn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by losttech View Post
I like this stuff holds up well and is safe for most everything.
http://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-Gre...nthetic+grease
All of my control arm bushings are polyurethane on the axle end, plus the flex joints on the body end have plastic races. So I have been using Super Lube pure silicone grease that comes full size grease gun cartridges. The number is 92150. It is excellent grease, it stays on bushings for a long time. The only problem is it is expensive and only a few places sell it.

I have been buying it from Home Depo but even then I have to order it because the stores do not stock it. Looking at Super Lubes compatibility chart the synthetic grease that you linked is excellent on polyurethane and it is much cheaper, so I may try it when my supply of silicone grease runs out.

This link should open Super lube's grease compatibility chart for rubber and plastics. http://www.super-lube.com/rubbers-an...s-ezp-223.html
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Unread 08-11-2014, 10:08 AM   #10
PeteYJTJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jetrinka View Post
.... The bushings are also rough to get in. I had to use a vice to install mine so I am not even sure how i'd get them out without destroying them.
In my experience (KOR Bushings in the IRO adj. track bar), this ^^^ is the problem.

The KOR bushings are such a tight fit, that any grease that you put on the bushings at assembly is just wiped off when you press the bushings in, resulting in no grease being in there. This resulted in stick-slip CLUNKs for me.

I took the bar back out, and pressed the bushings back out. Hammer out the inner sleeve first. Hold the bar, and then when you hammer the sleeve out, the far-side bushing will likely come out with it. Then you can get it apart. That's how it worked for me.

Then, once it's all apart again, I took a flat file to the OD of the KOR bushings. LIGHTLY remove material from the OD of the bushings, going around the bushing to try to keep it as round as you can. Make it more of a TAP fit, instead of a PRESS-WITH-A-VICE fit.

Then, I did the same with the ID of the bushings, and used a round file to take some material out of the ID, until it was a tap-fit (and not a vice-fit) to get the sleeve in.

You still want the fits snug, but not "I-need-a-vice-to-put-it-together" snug.

Grease it, put it back together. No CLUNKs.

This worked for me. I was going to go with a grease fitting, but the fits are so tight, I doubted that even a grease gun would get any grease in there.

Good luck with whatever direction you take.
Pete
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Unread 08-11-2014, 10:38 AM   #11
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When will everyone realize that there is no grease that degrades a polyurethane bushing? Any grease will work, it's just a matter of how long it stays put. The KOR bushings don't really leave any space between them and the bushing tube for grease to go, go any tiny amount that gets in there is easily pressed out. The grease that comes with Energy suspension or Prothane bushings is just insanely sticky, so it stays in the bushings a lot longer than regular bearing grease.

Bushings as hard as the KOR pieces really need to have grease channels molded into them (check it: http://fulltiltboogieracing.com/FT_1000.htm). Then you have to drill and tap a hole to mount a grease fitting to get the grease in between the bushings, so the grease can even get to the channels in the bushings.

That FTBR website makes really good bushings for IRS mustangs out of delrin, which would probably be good in this application too. But they put the grease channels in their bushings and make you install grease fittings where there were none from the factory.
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Unread 08-11-2014, 11:38 AM   #12
PeteYJTJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcorn View Post
.....Bushings as hard as the KOR pieces really need to have grease channels molded into them.....
dcorn, actually that was my Plan B. Use a ball-end rasp in the dremel, and make some type of criss-crossing lines/channels in the surface of the bushings for grease to go, and then drill and tap the bar end for a grease fitting.

If my plan A didn't work, that's where I was headed. But mine's been solid and quiet so far.

Pete
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Unread 08-11-2014, 05:19 PM   #13
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I use Napa Sil-Glyde. It's a silicone based lubricant that's safe for all types of bushing material.

Runs about $6 for a tube. The last time I applied any to the KOR bushings on my wife's WJ was about a year ago and everything is still nice and quiet.

However I think some time this fall I'm going to take it all apart, clean everything and then add some grease channels to the bushings.
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Unread 08-11-2014, 07:51 PM   #14
lam007
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Is thier any kind of spray grease you can use that would work with out taking the track bar off. I am having the same problem and we had a heck of a time getting the track bar off last time.
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Unread 08-11-2014, 08:00 PM   #15
jetrinka
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Thanks for all the advice. I have an email in to Kevins Offroad about it as well so I will wait till I hear back and then consider my options. While the bushing kit is a good one, it seems they went a little crazy making everything fit so tightly.. I might just consider taking the bar off completely and installing a grease fitting. However instead of putting grooves in the bushing I was considering taking a dremel to the ID of the bushing bore and making a shallow channel along its circumference right in the middle for grease to flow around the bushing. Sanding the paint off the ID of the bushing bore might lend enough clearance for a tap fit as well instead of sanding the bushings down.
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