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Unread 10-26-2013, 05:24 PM   #16
car5car
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Rebuilding engine means replacement of good parts. That is waste of time and money.
Diagnose problem, find bad parts, replace them.
More mechanic knows, less parts he replaces.

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Unread 10-26-2013, 05:52 PM   #17
Cirruslydakota
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Specifications for reusability of certain parts (Crank, cam, lifters, rods, etc.) are provided in the FSM and should be followed. For example; its not a waste of time and money to roll a new set of main bearings in if you have the bottom end opened up already. Again that depends on how they look during inspection.
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Unread 10-26-2013, 10:00 PM   #18
Cirruslydakota
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Like I said, it depends on how they look during inspection. I dropped the mains on mine and the bearings had almost no wear so they stayed in and I just polished the rod journals. The top half of the rod bearings on the other hand had worn through to the copper backing.
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Unread 10-27-2013, 08:52 AM   #19
Pierre_r
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomahawk View Post
Never heard of before, and around here we also got lots of 99/00 with Cobra bull bar with lights, never seen them brake down, or due to That,

I mounted my 5or6" hella's behind the grill, didnt affect the temp a tad, and the fact That they overheat in Skandinavia Are not very high, we have 6months Winter, and in. Summer it nearly Max out at 25-30deggre C/77-86F

What Are Those actuall changes in the cooling system, fan setup?

Just saying, first time heard, never seen it, but i might be wrong.
The problem was the cooling fan, they fixed it on later years by putting in a hydraulic fan that is connected to the powersteering.

Found this text from ARB:
Due to insufficient engine cooling on 1999-2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ models built in North America, ARB cannot recommend their Bull Bar (3450090) for this application. The problem lies within the early model's cooling system, which utilizes a conventional fan and fan clutch. With this configuration, the early WJ is extremely sensitive to
changes in vehicle rake, ride height and air flow, which have proven to cause a significant increase in engine operating temperatures.

Chrysler rectified this problem with the introduction of an upgraded cooling system on the 2001 and later Grand Cherokee models. The new system utilizes a hydraulic fan system that runs off of the power steering pump. ARB is pleased to announce that there have been no cooling problems reported with this combination.
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Unread 10-27-2013, 11:28 AM   #20
86cj74.2L
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I would speculate that the original problem with the melted piston was a lean condition on that cylinder. That melted the piston. And probably killed the head gasket too.

The previous owner most likely kept driving it with a flashing Check Engine Light.

Just speculation........but it's the only way I know of to melt a piston. And that knocking and 1800 plus degree temp melted the piston crown.

If they ran the engine Untill it died I would really look at parts carefully.

Oil pump, crank, rods for being bent from being hydraulic'd. Bla bla bla.
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Unread 10-27-2013, 11:29 AM   #21
Thomahawk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pierre_r
The problem was the cooling fan, they fixed it on later years by putting in a hydraulic fan that is connected to the powersteering. Found this text from ARB: Due to insufficient engine cooling on 1999-2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ models built in North America, ARB cannot recommend their Bull Bar (3450090) for this application. The problem lies within the early model's cooling system, which utilizes a conventional fan and fan clutch. With this configuration, the early WJ is extremely sensitive to changes in vehicle rake, ride height and air flow, which have proven to cause a significant increase in engine operating temperatures. Chrysler rectified this problem with the introduction of an upgraded cooling system on the 2001 and later Grand Cherokee models. The new system utilizes a hydraulic fan system that runs off of the power steering pump. ARB is pleased to announce that there have been no cooling problems reported with this combination.
Ok, Good info to know
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Unread 10-27-2013, 02:44 PM   #22
MoMatt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 86cj74.2L View Post
I would speculate that the original problem with the melted piston was a lean condition on that cylinder. That melted the piston. And probably killed the head gasket too.

The previous owner most likely kept driving it with a flashing Check Engine Light.

Just speculation........but it's the only way I know of to melt a piston. And that knocking and 1800 plus degree temp melted the piston crown.

If they ran the engine Untill it died I would really look at parts carefully.

Oil pump, crank, rods for being bent from being hydraulic'd. Bla bla bla.
That's the hesitation I have about it - this endeavour is a first for me and I could quickly get in over my head. The two guys I have talked to that have done a "garage rebuild" said they got it all back together and it ran for about 15 minutes before seizing.

That said, looking closely at that cylinder the piston just looks damaged from metal debris (presumably metal from the valve seat) getting knocked around. Doesn't look like the actual piston was melted. I think the melted metal is the valve seat.

The history I have on the car was that a teenager had it overheat and then "drove it home from the mountains". Sounds like it drove til it wouldn't drive no more.

Whatever I decide to do I appreciate the tips, input and help from everyone.
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Unread 10-27-2013, 03:11 PM   #23
86cj74.2L
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If he did that. I would not use that engine. Scrap metal comes to mind. It's not worth the risk. Even to save 1000 dollars.

As long as you get the engine with the correct crank tone wheel any 4.7. Durango, Dakota, ram, grand Cherokee, Commander. Bla bla.
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Unread 10-27-2013, 07:18 PM   #24
Cirruslydakota
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Agreed. At that point you don't know what you're working with till you pull the block and get it checked out by a machine shop. Seeing how that piston looks I'd bet the cylinder wall is in bad shape as well. Can the block be saved? Of course, but it all depends on how much you want to spend.
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Unread 11-09-2013, 02:12 PM   #25
MoMatt
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I ended up finding a junk yard engine from an '05 Ram and am working on swapping the tone wheel from the old one into the new one.

I've got the new one on a stand, the old block upside down on my driveway and just got the 16 tooth tone wheel pulled.

Also I've already swapped the engine mounts and the exhaust manifolds.

The old exhaust manifolds had rust and debris in them from the blown head gasket. I've basically just wiped them out - should I do anything more than that? Is there any risk of debris getting pulled back into the cylinder, or will it just get pushed through the exhaust during the exhaust stroke?

I'll try to get more pics up soon. Pulling the engine wasn't TOO bad considering it's my first time doing anything like this. I broke an exhaust bolt and one sensor (not sure which one - it sits right above the oil filter).

Thanks again for everyone's input!
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Unread 11-09-2013, 03:59 PM   #26
Cirruslydakota
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Blow them out with compressed air. Or run a degreaser and water through them and let them air dry.
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Unread 11-14-2013, 12:20 PM   #27
MoMatt
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Thanks Cirrusly, got it done.

Getting the new engine back together and am trying to get timing set. Can't figure out why things aren't lining up. I've got all dots and links aligned per the FSM, but the cam gears are not lining up to the dot on the cam chains.

Here are some pics, can anyone can tell me what I'm missing?

Is it possible I have the cam chains switched so the dots aren't lining up?
Lower crank gear, crank is positioned with #1 at TDC:



Main sprocket:



Cam chains with double dots visible through main sprocket:



Cam gears still not at 12 o'clock! What am I missing?

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Unread 11-14-2013, 12:38 PM   #28
MoMatt
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Better pics of the cam gears, this time they are aligned properly with the chain dot on the respective L and R dots. Still doesn't line up.


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Unread 11-14-2013, 03:04 PM   #29
MoMatt
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Disregard. Had the cam chains lined up wrong on the main sprocket.
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Unread 12-12-2013, 03:42 PM   #30
MoMatt
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Update - the new engine is in, and it has a dead cylinder. Runs with a miss and:

no compression on #4 cylinder, before and after pouring oil into top.
#2 was at 85psi, poured oil into top, jumped to 200+ psi

All other cylinders 110+ (didn't check 8, couldn't get the stupid air hose threaded back in there)

So, #2 is losing air either from the intake, exhaust, or there's a hole in the piston. I've ruled out rings since I saw no change with oil poured in.

I've ruled out a leak into the cooling system since there's zero compression and it won't even try to fire. I'd think with a cracked head / block / gasket I would get something.

Also, I pulled the valve cover and swapped out lash adjusters. One of the lash adjusters on #4 seemed stuck, so I swapped it. Still no compression.

Going to pull the head and have a look.

Anyone have any tips for pulling the pax side head? I got the battery box out and plan to remove the A/C lines.
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