Running like crap - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 9 Old 08-18-2017, 06:51 PM Thread Starter
Ravenbar
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2002 WJ 
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Madrid, NY
Posts: 513
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Running like crap

-Came out of work yesterday to a dead Jeep. Battery wasn't enough to crank it over. A tiny hit from a jumper box and it started. As soon as I removed the Jumper box, it would die. If I hold the throttle at about 12%(just about the thickness of a zip tie on top of the throttle stop), per my scan tool TPS reading, it idles right where it should. I wrapped a zip tie on there just to get it home and fiddled around with it. Took the zip-tie off once I got home and it idled right where it should. Only thing I could find wrong was the positive battery terminal was a little loose and corroded so I cleaned that up and got it all tightened up good(had to file a little out of the gap of the terminal to get it to tighten decently on the battery post).

Went out this morning and same thing, only it idled fine once I jumped it. Put it in gear and it died. I searched around and pulled a replacement battery terminal off a parts Jeep and swapped out the positive terminal. After that, with a boost again, I drove to work fine, although I didn't dare shut the engine off when I stopped for coffee.

Got out of work tonight and same deal as yesterday, right down to the ziptie to get it to idle.

Battery was replaced at the end of November. Volt guage(& CB radio diagnostic volt meter) reads high 13v/low 14v when running so I don't think it's an alternator issue.CB & guage read 12.2v when shut off. I also disconnected all the extra wiring I've run for lights/etc. this morning and it isn't the problem(still died tonight). I've also been experiencing a misfire issue at the same place 3 times now. Get a random misfire, cylinders 2&5 misfires, & Ignition coil circuit B for codes when that happens. Misfires until I pull over and shut down and restart, then it runs fine.

Anyone have any ideas?

Possibilities I've come up with:
-Bad battery
-parasitic draw drawing battery too far down to start, Computer relearning is causing it to stall
-Bad Battery wires
-Intake or injector vacuum leak(coworker thought he could hear a leak from that area)
-MAP or TPS sensor failure(TPS was replaces last winter with a BWD)



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post #2 of 9 Old 08-19-2017, 11:04 AM Thread Starter
Ravenbar
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I left the battery disconnected overnight and got a voltage reading of 11.93 on the CB meter. I've started it fine before with that voltage.

When I connect the battery I get a cood spark and hear a click/clunk coming from somewhere down and to the drivers side. Couldn't trace it by myself so I'l have to wait for someone to get home so I can track it down from underneath. I'm almost thinking the starter solenoid might be stuck, but the starter area is the only corner of the engine the noise doesn't seem to come from.


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post #3 of 9 Old 08-19-2017, 11:34 AM
xjpete
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Just a thought-did you make sure where cable attaches to alternator is tight? Mine loosened up on my XJ once.

Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ purchased Sept 2014
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post #4 of 9 Old 08-19-2017, 12:03 PM Thread Starter
Ravenbar
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Just ran a parasitic draw test.

PCM Batt fuse circuit in the underhood fuse box is the source of the click. Doesn't have much for affect on battery draw.

Fuse 15(JB power, 50 amp) in the underhood box is giving me 3+amps of draw with the ignition off. Now I'm trying to figure out what is on that circuit. Name seems to indicate to me the internal fuse box.


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post #5 of 9 Old 08-19-2017, 12:27 PM
BDW
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15 feeds 5, 7, 8, and 9 in the junction block. Still reading...

5 is the radio and power amp
7 is the underhood lamp, SKIM, auto climate control, automatic headlight sesor, and the body control module
8 courtesy lights and liftgate motors and rear wiper
9 is the power outlets in the dash
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04 WJ 4.0/NP242, 3" OME, Bilsteins, 255/75/17 & JKR wheels, 44A, 4.56, ARB lockers, & more
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post #6 of 9 Old 08-19-2017, 03:07 PM Thread Starter
Ravenbar
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Um, I feel like an idiot. Traced down the 3+ amp draw to my dome lights being turned on. Currently leaving the battery connected after charging to see if it drains.

Anyhow, I have another problem now. I pulled the throttle body & injectors to replace the O-rings & TB gasket due to hearing a hissing noise in that area. In taking the TB off, I snapped the plastic ends that hold the kickdown cable and cruise control cables onto the TB. Anyone know a repair other than replacing the cables?


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post #7 of 9 Old 08-19-2017, 04:06 PM
BDW
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Snapped my trans cable end and superglued it for a couple of days waiting delivery of new cable. Held OK, but I doubt that's a long term fix.

04 WJ 4.0/NP242, 3" OME, Bilsteins, 255/75/17 & JKR wheels, 44A, 4.56, ARB lockers, & more
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post #8 of 9 Old 08-19-2017, 06:45 PM Thread Starter
Ravenbar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BDW View Post
Snapped my trans cable end and superglued it for a couple of days waiting delivery of new cable. Held OK, but I doubt that's a long term fix.
After I went back out, I looked on the first parts Jeep and somebody had made up a little aluminum bracket that hose clamped to the trans cable end to hold it onto the peg. I pulled that and my brother showed up, who owned that parts jeep, that bracket was on the Jeep when he got it 5+ years ago and held until the body rusted out. I pulled the cruise cable out of that parts jeep as well and installed that to fix that cable. I'll plan on changing the kickdown cable when I swap out the trans in a few weeks. Jeep seems to be running fine now, although it cranked a few times before starting the first couple times I tried. I'm guessing its because I had the injectors pulled and the fuel system lost pressure. I also used engine assembly lube on the o-rings and some got on the injector tips so it took a bit for it to wash off. I turned the key on and off a couple times to build fuel pressure and now it starts like normal.

I'm leaving the battery hooked up tonight and hopefully everything works fine in the morning.


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post #9 of 9 Old 08-20-2017, 08:43 AM Thread Starter
Ravenbar
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Just went out ans started it with no problem. Running a little rough but that's probably due to the computer relearning everything as I haven't driven it yet. Shifted through all the gears and everything with no bogging or stalling. Guessing that was caused by the PCM not liking the voltage it was getting from the battery/alternator after being jumped.


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