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06-28-2006, 07:38 AM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Red Bank, NJ
Posts: 20
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Replacing the Transmission Speed Sensors
I got a $350 quote yesterday for replacing the input and output speed sensors on my 1999 Grand Cherokee. This quote includes the $100 scanner diagnostics test.
After browsing the archives here, I learned that people have paid roughly $180 total to replace the sensors.
How hard is it replacing the sensors? Its just a bolt and a bracket?
Since I already have $100 invested, I may just suck it up and pay the $250 balance. But at the same time, I'd rather do it myself save couple bucks and learn a thing or two.
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06-28-2006, 08:09 AM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 2,864
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It would be easier than changing a flat. See this link for sensor locations and instructions. (BTW, very little fluid leaks out when a sensor is removed.) http://www.wjjeeps.com/speed_sensors.htm
__________________
2001 WJ Limited with Quadra-Drive, Kenne Bell Supercharger, 3-inch Kolak exhaust, Stillen rotors (F/R) and MM pads, Addco sway bars (F/R).
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06-28-2006, 09:04 AM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Red Bank, NJ
Posts: 20
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I did see that link but I am also going to purchase the Chilton just in case.
Thanks rm2001wj
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06-28-2006, 10:14 AM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 35
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I bought both sensors a couple weeks ago from the stealership for $87 and some change. It literally took less than 10 minutes to change them myself. It is soo much easier and faster than changing a flat tire.
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06-28-2006, 10:19 AM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Red Bank, NJ
Posts: 20
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Thanks for the reassurance AnDaCo2002.
This may seem like a dumb question but...
1) How do I know if I need a "WJ Speed Sensor?" What is "WJ?"
2) How can I find out which transmission I have? (42RE or 45RFE)
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06-28-2006, 10:24 AM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 2,864
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WJ = 1999 - 2004 Grand Cherokee
It's always good to tell what engine you have. Anyway the 4.7L V8 has the 45/545RFE, while the 4.0L I6 has the 42RE. The 42RE has only one, an output speed sensor.
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06-28-2006, 10:39 AM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Red Bank, NJ
Posts: 20
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Interesting... I have a V6 4.0 but the quote I got was for (1) input sensor and (1) output sensor.
Perhaps I need (2) output sensors?
Quote:
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Originally Posted by rm2001wj
WJ = 1999 - 2004 Grand Cherokee
It's always good to tell what engine you have. Anyway the 4.7L V8 has the 45/545RFE, while the 4.0L I6 has the 42RE. The 42RE has only one, an output speed sensor.
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EDIT:
Just got off the phone with Jeep parts. They said that there are 2 sensors and both have the same part # Apparently they are universal.
Last edited by jellyroll; 06-28-2006 at 12:10 PM..
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06-28-2006, 11:04 AM
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Red Bank, NJ
Posts: 20
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One last thing if I may,
Will the output sensor on the 42 RE be in the same location on the 45/545RFE as shown on the diagram below?
Thanks again..
Last edited by jellyroll; 06-28-2006 at 11:15 AM..
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06-28-2006, 12:58 PM
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 2,864
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Quote:
WJ speed sensors
Output speed sensor for 42RE transmission
(1999-2004) P/N 4800879
(supercedes P/N 4412879) List price: $18.35
Input speed sensor for 45RFE / 545RFE transmission
(1999-2005) P/N 4799061AB List price: $36.70
Output speed sensor for 45RFE / 545RFE transmission
(1999-2005) P/N 4799061AB List price: $36.70
(Prices listed are for reference purposes only and may vary by dealer. Parts are not available from this web site
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As you can see in the above quote from wjjeeps.com, the single 42RE sensor is different from the two 45/545REF sensors. They are not universal! The 42RE sensor is in a similar approximate location as the 45/545RFE output speed sensor. However, it screws directly into the transmission case instead of being held in place by a bolt.
It seems like either you and the Jeep dealership are not communicating very well or that they are trying to screw you. Maybe you should try another dealership.
BTW, the six cylinder engine is a straight or inline six (I6), not a V6.
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06-29-2006, 05:00 PM
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Red Bank, NJ
Posts: 20
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I replaced the sensors and the problem is fixed! Thanks for everyones support here.
Now I need to reset the check engine light. My service manual states:
"After the system has been repaired, the codes must be cleared fro mthe PCM memory using the scan tool (i do not have) Do I need to take it to the dealer to have the codes cleared?
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06-29-2006, 05:26 PM
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#11
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I ate what?
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: STL (IL side)
Posts: 8,340
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Unhook your battery for about 20 minutes.
__________________
Ken
99 GC Limited - 4.7L HO V8, 6.5" IRO HC LA lift, F&R D44s locked & trussed, 242HD, IRO TC Skid, KMA Bumper, 35's
2006 Saturn Redline -2.0L Eaton supercharged I4, GMPP Stage 2, Custom Tune, AEM CAI, Ebiach Pro Kit w/ swaybars, EVO Ventus V12s (13.76 @ 103.85)
2006 Pontiac G6 GTP
2012 Nissan Juke - (hers)
2000 SV650 - naked, integrated tail light, sliders, corbin, pilot roads, RK chain & sprokets, D&D full exhaust, FactoryPro Stage I jet kit, +4 Ignition Advancer, Barnett race clutch
2006 Triumph America 900 - Full Dresser
January 2009 Grand Cherokee of the Month (GCOTM)
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06-29-2006, 05:39 PM
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#12
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Red Bank, NJ
Posts: 20
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I just found a few threads about unhookung the battery.
My service manual says "Do not disconnect the battery"
Not sure why it says that but it seems to work for eveyone here...
Thanks to everyone here for all the replies.
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06-29-2006, 07:04 PM
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#13
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Former Mod
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: NJ
Posts: 2,503
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by jellyroll
I just found a few threads about unhookung the battery.
My service manual says "Do not disconnect the battery"
Not sure why it says that but it seems to work for eveyone here...
Thanks to everyone here for all the replies.
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Your service manual also says to bring it to the dealership for all service work.
Remember who wrote it.
Also, the check engine light should go out but the codes may remain until you cycle the GC on and off about 20 - 50 times. So, don't be alarmed unless the check engine light comes on and then pull up the codes yourself and save $100. Instructions in the FAQ Stickey Thread above.
Phil
__________________
'95 ZJ Ltd. White 4.0L
TW DC DS; ARB Bull Bar, F&R Air Lockers; Superior Axles; Warn Winch; 4.56 gears; ACOS, Addco F&R Sw Bar, JKS Discos, Rr Track Bar & Nerfs, 249>242 Swap, Stillen rotors+Kolak pads, 3 pc. Armor, RE 4.5 Kit + 2.5"BB, Adj. UCAs&LCAs, OME SS, Bilstein 5150s, 15x8 AR Diamond Backs, 33 Truxus MTs, K&N FIPK, RE 62mm TB, Perf. Distr. 4.0L Kit, Exhaust: 2.5" Kolak exhaust FM 70: Optima Yellow, Mean Grn Alt., PIAA 520s, 540s, Kevins Rack, & TB Conversion
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06-29-2006, 07:11 PM
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#14
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Headed Out West
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Northern Indiana
Posts: 6,369
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Nice work Jellyroll
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06-29-2006, 07:30 PM
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#15
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Red Bank, NJ
Posts: 20
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So I unhooked the negative termainal and waited over an hour but the check engine light still comes on.
I turned the car off and on- sometimes holding the reset button by the sunroof- 3 times but the light still appears.
I will look through the instructions in the FAQ Stickey Thread that Phil mentioned.
Thanks again.
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