Replacing outer tie rods - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 14 Old 07-20-2017, 05:37 AM Thread Starter
4PointSlowWJ
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Replacing outer tie rods

Replacing these things Saturday any advice? Any special tools I'm gonna need.buying moog with grease points. I've done them before but different cars. My experience on wjs there's always surprises. Anything else i should look at while I'm down they're? Thanks in advance!


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post #2 of 14 Old 07-20-2017, 08:02 AM
Squarecat
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Start a penetrating oil regimen ASAP.

Went to do mine the first time and had to abandon the task for the sake of time & sanity since they were completely seized in the sleeve.

Also one of the arms on the knuckle was smaller than I expected and my cheap puller arms were too wide for it. Had to get a kit with smaller/narrower puller included.

Between the two problems and realizing I had to remove the wheels plus only having a 2" BB, it turned what I was used to doing in minutes on my 4.5" lifted XJ into a headache.


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post #3 of 14 Old 07-20-2017, 08:18 AM
ChrisHager
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Off the top of my head...

  • Try to break loose your adjusting rod/sleeve before removing the tie rod ends from the knuckles. A little heat can help.
  • After removing the cotter pin and the castle nut, spin the nut back on a few threads. This prevents it from smacking you in the face when it lets loose.
  • Hit what the bolt goes through, not the bolt itself. Meaning, locate a heavy persuasion device and smack the crap out of the knuckle. This will pop the bolt out with much more success.
  • Measure or count the threads of the old TREs before removing them from the rod/sleeve. Install the new ones according to your numbers. This will get you "close" to your original alignment, though you'll still need a proper alignment afterwards.

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post #4 of 14 Old 07-20-2017, 08:32 AM Thread Starter
4PointSlowWJ
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Cool thanks i was gonna do a string alignment to be extra certain before i drive it up to get aligned. I did that on my mom's mini van and it was spot on didn't even need an alignment. But . I'm still Gonna take it in and let them do it. Replacing all shocks and steering stabilizer as well while I'm down they're


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post #5 of 14 Old 07-20-2017, 08:53 AM Thread Starter
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Cool thanks i was gonna do a string alignment to be extra certain before i drive it up to get aligned. I did that on my mom's mini van and it was spot on didn't even need an alignment. But . I'm still Gonna take it in and let them do it. Replacing all shocks and steering stabilizer as well while I'm down they're


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post #6 of 14 Old 07-20-2017, 08:54 AM
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Replacing outer tie rods

I just do tape measure and call it a day. I mean on stock control arms there's really only one adjustment and even that has a relatively loose spec.

Edit: Forgot to specify I was referring to toe as the single adjustment. The reference to stock control arms meant caster is not adjustable (whereas some aftermarket adjustable arms would allow that.)


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post #7 of 14 Old 07-20-2017, 08:54 AM
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Just replaced mine recently and do exactly as he says... I wasnt so fortunate and had to buy a new sleeve as my one end was just so rusted that it tore the threads up pretty bad. For a peace of mind and 50$ I had a new sleeve and set up. Don't get frustrated.. took me a little over 5 hours to do both my tie rod and drag link.
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post #8 of 14 Old 07-20-2017, 01:50 PM
2ndhandWJman
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mix up a 1:1 solution of ATF and acetone and start spraying it into any exposed threads. I used a spray bottle that you can buy from Home Depot. Messy stuff, but it will creep deep into threads that regular penetrating oils fail to reach.
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post #9 of 14 Old 07-20-2017, 02:52 PM
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If I remember right...One of the TREs uses left hand threads...make sure you don't damage them when removing by trying to go tighter.

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post #10 of 14 Old 07-20-2017, 03:11 PM Thread Starter
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So when you say leave the nut on a few threads and hit with hammer do this instead using tie rod puller tool right??


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post #11 of 14 Old 07-20-2017, 03:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Double E View Post
If I remember right...One of the TREs uses left hand threads...make sure you don't damage them when removing by trying to go tighter.


That is correct. One of the ends is left handed thread.

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post #12 of 14 Old 07-20-2017, 03:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4PointSlowWJ View Post
So when you say leave the nut on a few threads and hit with hammer do this instead using tie rod puller tool right??


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leave the nut on to avoid the tie rod sleeve from smacking you in the face because the nut wont go through the knuckle. he meant to hit the actual knuckle to break the tie rod end loose instead of the actual bolt end of the tie rod. A pickle fork may still need to be used.

Last edited by ChrisHager; 07-21-2017 at 07:17 AM. Reason: Fixed Quote
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post #13 of 14 Old 07-21-2017, 07:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MossyOakD View Post
That is correct. One of the ends is left handed thread.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MossyOakD View Post
leave the nut on to avoid the tie rod sleeve from smacking you in the face because the nut wont go through the knuckle. he meant to hit the actual knuckle to break the tie rod end loose instead of the actual bolt end of the tie rod. A pickle fork may still need to be used.
Bingo. One is left hand threaded and I never use a "puller". I have a pickle fork in my tool box that a friend brought over and donated to the tool pile but I don't think I've ever used it... Well, except to ting against the concrete and listen to the harmonic vibrations. I'm a simple man.


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post #14 of 14 Old 07-21-2017, 08:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2ndhandWJman View Post
mix up a 1:1 solution of ATF and acetone and start spraying it into any exposed threads. I used a spray bottle that you can buy from Home Depot. Messy stuff, but it will creep deep into threads that regular penetrating oils fail to reach.


Going to try this. Ran short on time and patience in my case and just replaced the drag link and tie rod sleeves. So now I technically have spares but they are semi-permanently bonded to worn out TREs...


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