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04-01-2012, 05:23 PM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Belton, MO
Posts: 335
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Replaced radiator, water pump and thermostat - fan question
I just replaced the radiator, water pump and thermostat and I have a couple questions.
The FSM says to bleed the system to remove the bleed nut... mine is frozen on there. Any other options?
Also, I am doing the warm up/ cool down cycles and the fan isn't kicking on. The temp gauge got a bit past the 210 mark, so I assume it should have turned on. Any ideas?
EDIT: I believe I got the fan problem taken care of. Most of the power steering fluid seems to have drained out when I replaced the radiator. I added fluid and the fan runs... now it is making a bad groaning noise, even though I used the approved PS fluid.
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04-01-2012, 05:26 PM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: new york
Posts: 14
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You can leave the radiator cap off until the thermostat opens if the bleed valve is stuck..
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04-01-2012, 05:27 PM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: new york
Posts: 14
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If you have air in your system the fan may not switch on. Bleed air by removing radiator cap..
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04-01-2012, 05:38 PM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Belton, MO
Posts: 335
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I believe I got the fan problem taken care of. Most of the power steering fluid seems to have drained out when I replaced the radiator. I added fluid and the fan runs... now it is making a bad groaning noise, even though I used the approved PS fluid.
I'll work on bleeding the system with the rad cap off now.
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04-01-2012, 06:04 PM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: East Meadow, NY
Posts: 925
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Park with the jeep front end on a curb to bring the nose up,this way the air will rise out of the system easier.You can also spray PBblaster on the bleed nut,let it sit overnight,should be easy by morning.When you put it back dont forget to dope the threads,loctite,or any thread sealant.
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04-01-2012, 06:06 PM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Belton, MO
Posts: 335
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My power steering is worrying me a bit. I opened the reservoir and it looks kind of like a milkshake.
Is there any way I could have hooked the lines back up incorrectly that could cause the groaning and discoloration?
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04-01-2012, 06:23 PM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: East Meadow, NY
Posts: 925
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Drain that fluid out asap,then look at your connections again to make sure their right.Then fill with fresh fluid.Ive never seen that fluid look like a milkshake,but i wouldnt risk it.
Also check for air leak.
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04-01-2012, 07:01 PM
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Belton, MO
Posts: 335
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HVACNY
Drain that fluid out asap,then look at your connections again to make sure their right.Then fill with fresh fluid.Ive never seen that fluid look like a milkshake,but i wouldnt risk it.
Also check for air leak.
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That's what I'm thinking. Do you happen to know of a diagram that shows the proper connections. When I put them back together I was 100% sure that I did it right... now I'm questioning myself.
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04-01-2012, 10:39 PM
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Belton, MO
Posts: 335
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Reading the FSM it mentions foamy power steering fluid. Which is what I would probably consider mine to be. I didn't see the procedure to bleed the PS system after my radiator change so I imagine that's my problem. I'll still drain it and start over just to be safe.
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04-02-2012, 04:22 AM
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: new york
Posts: 14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doomi
Reading the FSM it mentions foamy power steering fluid. Which is what I would probably consider mine to be. I didn't see the procedure to bleed the PS system after my radiator change so I imagine that's my problem. I'll still drain it and start over just to be safe.
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I thought that you can bleed P/S by turning steering wheel all the way left and then all the way right...
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04-02-2012, 07:36 AM
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 293
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If you search on "Power stearing fluid flush" on this forum, you'll get a detailed step by step instructions. Good luck...
__________________
2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 2x4 4.0L
2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee Sport 2x4 4.0L
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 2x4 4.0L
"Three daughters, three Jeeps"
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04-02-2012, 06:12 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Dunbar, West Virginia
Posts: 857
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yes your correct, as far as im aware you turn the wheel from lock to lock a few times to bleed the system, then id shut it off and restart it a minute or two later, thats how i bleed them at work
__________________
2004 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.0
161,000+ miles
Rusty's 2.5" coil/shock lift
265/70/16 (~31") General Grabber AT2's
custom painted silverblade wheels
Flowmaster 40 series cat-back exhaust
tint-to-match front windows
MOPAR transfer case skid plate
Superchips 3875 Flashpaq
1997 BMW 328i Sedan
226,000+ miles
H&R OE sport springs
Bilstein sport struts/shocks
Eibach sway bar kit
West Virginia Jeep Club member
JEEPINWV.COM
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04-05-2012, 06:45 AM
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#13
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Mass
Posts: 85
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I could be wrong but I think the fittings for the PS lines to the pump are different from each other which would make it impossible to connect them wrong. Again, I could be wrong though
__________________
01 grand cherokee Larado.
91 Z28 with 500HP
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04-05-2012, 07:25 AM
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#14
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Belton, MO
Posts: 335
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BOTTLEDZ28
I could be wrong but I think the fittings for the PS lines to the pump are different from each other which would make it impossible to connect them wrong. Again, I could be wrong though
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Yeah, I had everything hooked up correctly... I just didn't realize all of the PS fluid drained out while replacing my radiator. And it looked frothy (which I guess can be normal when adding fluid) which worried me.
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04-05-2012, 04:19 PM
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#15
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Red Deer, AB
Posts: 150
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The foam in the power steering is from the air in the system getting pushed out, causing frothing. Thats normal and it'll stop once all the airs out of the fans hydraulic system. Same as the noise, its the air getting forced out. Just keep the resevoir topped up and it'll stop after a proper drive.. no need to bleed.
Filling the rad.. my prefered method is to fill until it'll take no more, then squeeze the top radiator hose to get the air out. Top it up then start the engine with the cap off, leave it running and top up as needed. At some point the water level starts to rise and spew out the top, then its time to put the cap on.
Top up the overflow tank and go for a drive to get to operating temperature. Leave to cool overnight and top up the overflow in the morning.
Too easy.
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