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Unread 06-24-2012, 02:49 PM   #1
Amadauss
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Wj replace metal brake lines thread w/pics and questions

I had jumped on another thread at first but thought I would just start a new one with pics if anyone has to do the job. Still not completed because of a line that will not come apart but working on it.

Here are some pics of before I started and where it stands now:

Pic of new line which I feed in starting at engine, was not difficult.


Pic of part number, around 20 dollars. Dealer told me this is the only one they stock.


Rear line showing rust.


Again rear line with rust, those black clips that hold the line in place are held into the body with one plastic clip on the opposite side of view. I lubbed the plastic up with wd40 or similar and was able to snap the metal line out to replace without popping the whole set up out by holding other lines in place and putting a screw driver under bad line to pry off. About 4 or 5 places they are held in with these holders.


I found after I got that line off, I needed to replace the one that feeds the front drivers side, it was also badly rusted and leaking. Here are the feeder lines for both. To remove them knowing I was going to replace them I cut them where needed including right above where they are attached. Made it easier with a rachet and a long socket to take them off. No sense trying to fish them out.


Here is my issue now, I took the one bolt off holding this clip in place which holds the front feeder brake line in place and you can see in the pic above. I am having a heck of a time getting that metal feed off to replace with a new one on this pic. Even tried some heat but will not budge. I would really like to get it off without having to cut the hose. Any thoughts here would help. Right now the way it is showing I could even put a jar of some penetrating fluid and actually dip the whole thing into it and let it soak and give it a day to see what happens.


Here is the new real ine attached:


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Unread 06-24-2012, 06:04 PM   #2
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Ok, a little surprised did not get any views but I guess this job is a no brainer. Well this is for the new guys who have no clue like me....anyway, still cannot get that piece apart so question is can I cut the rubber hose and attach a new part that would work..I mean I would think there is something to replace it. Will have to put together a holder for it to attach to body but getting frustrated cannot get this thing apart. Dealer should have something correct?
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Unread 06-24-2012, 06:28 PM   #3
dnovack2007
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i should do this one day just havnt had the time too. wouldnt just be easier to buy a new rubber line? i dont think they cost that much. that would be the easiest thing imo.
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Unread 06-25-2012, 10:44 AM   #4
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That was my thought on getting a rubber line but not sure they make them or if so, the connection types. Thought maybe someone had already done so and would just get advice on how to do it. I am going to the dealer today to see what they have to offer for purchase. They stopped stocking two of the three rear feeding lines and hoping they have the one I need for the front.
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Unread 06-25-2012, 11:20 AM   #5
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You can buy all of the rubber hoses from Rock Auto. They are direct replacements for the stock parts - correct length, fittings and brackets. I changed most of my brake lines about a year ago for rust too.
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Unread 06-25-2012, 11:22 AM   #6
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Yes still available, you get the whole length from the firewall to the caliper as one piece, 2 metal pipes and 2 rubber pipes
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Unread 06-25-2012, 11:30 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanasWJ View Post
You can buy all of the rubber hoses from Rock Auto. They are direct replacements for the stock parts - correct length, fittings and brackets. I changed most of my brake lines about a year ago for rust too.
Did you have to take the jeep to the dealer after you finished to have anything re-set? Or did you just re-fill and bleed all the lines and you were ok? Thanks.
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Unread 06-26-2012, 06:32 AM   #8
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Will have to do mine soon....the rears were advised upon on my last MOT (roadworthyness test in the UK). Going to take the oportunity to replace all my rubber hoses with braided stainless steel ones at the same time as I have on most of my cars. Last a life time and give a more positive feel at the pedal.
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Unread 06-26-2012, 06:33 AM   #9
DanasWJ
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I didn't go to the dealer after replacing the brake lines. I bled the whole system with clean fluid using a Power Bleeder from Motive Products. It makes the job so easy, and you don't need someone inside the Jeep pumping the brakes.
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Unread 06-26-2012, 04:24 PM   #10
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Finally just went to dealer and purchased the whole piece that feeds the calipher. Best way to do it. While I am taking this brake feed off I find that the upper control arm nut on the interior above where the brake line is attached to the body and connected onto the metal tubing, the nut is very rusted. I think the arm is ok but the bolt holding it is very rusted and can go any time. Im thinking might as well fix it now while there. Right now I have the car on ramps. I really don't want to take it off the ramps now doing the brake lines so can I put the jack under the arm to support it and then remove that rusted nut to replace it? Here is a pic of it along with the bolt inside the wheel well that was covered by a rubber snap on piece. Is that the bolt I turn to get it off? And will the jack support it while on the ramps so I can just either replace the whole nut and bolt or just the nut.

The other issue is the lower control arm which is directly below it and has a nut visible when looking in the wheel well. In my rush to fix, I made a mistake and started turning that nut. Realized wrong one and tightened. Is their a torque number for that one?

Rusted nut inside holding upper control arm



exterior bolt in wheel well behind rubber snap in cover (upper control arm bolt, correct?


Bolt I mistakenly loosened and re-tightened. (inside the car pic)


If curious, used a macro lens to take these pics.
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Unread 06-26-2012, 04:34 PM   #11
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I am thinking also need to support the axle if taking that upper arm off at the top to replace the bolt.

On the brake lines, ended up going to auto zone and purchasing the metal tubes there and renting out the bend bar to bend the tubing. I good idea is to keep the tubing you took out as a diagram when you have to bend the new lines. Also make sure you leave the threaded fittings on either side on the ends when you start bending. Had to get another line because I did not want to hurt the threads on the fitting when bending that first small bend I slid it out of the way and then bent the line. I'm half Polish so I get a pass on this , realized after bending the threaded fitting will not go to the end with the bend.
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Unread 06-26-2012, 09:37 PM   #12
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don't remove that upper a-arm without the Jeep level.

That inside nut looks awful, but unless it's a problem, or you plan to replace that arm/bushings anytime soon, I'd leave it.

I'm not sure where the bolt in the second picture is.

Lower arm torque

Axle side=120ft lbs
body side=115ft lbs
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Unread 06-26-2012, 10:29 PM   #13
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Thanks very much. I'll leave it alone for now and just finish the new lines for the brakes.

That other bolt is on the inside frame for the lower arm.
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Unread 06-28-2012, 11:01 PM   #14
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Ok completed the install of the brake lines. A bend tool for the lines came in handy. The zone lets you rent it out.

Bled the brakes and I am thinking after testing it out I have to take to dealer to have final adjustments or get that other bleeder tool to try and bleed them again on my own. The car stops but brakes are mushy and have to pump them a little bit to get them working correctly. Any thoughts?
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Unread 06-28-2012, 11:22 PM   #15
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Dealer to bleed the ABS pump.

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