Refurbishing/Repairing the WJ's Rear Wiper Motor Write Up (Lots of Pictures) - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 12 Old 03-24-2012, 02:37 AM Thread Starter
mycreativename
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Refurbishing/Repairing the WJ's Rear Wiper Motor Write Up (Lots of Pictures)

Alright, Iíve been meaning to do this write up for quite some time now, just have been busy and havenít gotten around to it. I tell you this because it has been a bit of time since I actually did this, so if I miss something, in advance, I Ďm sorry.

Since Iíd bought the WJ, the rear wiper had not worked. I had just dismissed it as something I didnít care about and took the arm off, figuring that the motor was probably trashed, and I didnít want to spend the money on a new one just then.

Fast forward to this winter, and I was dealing with some electrical issues. While trying to figure out that issue, I got distracted and decided to look into the rear wiper situation. I had found another write up online, but it was for a ZJ, pretty similar just some discrepancies, so I decided to make my own after taking it apart myself.

The issue is that water/moisture makes its way down the shaft of the wiper and ends up rusting the shaft enough that it will stop the motor from moving, leaving you, without a rear wiper. To rectify this, one needs to take the motor apart and clean and lubricate the shaft of the motor to get it freely moving once again. Many just assume the motor is shot and go out and buy a new one, wasting a decent chunk of money on something that can be fixed for next to nothing, just a bit of time and work.

Tools Needed
- Phillips Screwdriver
- 10mm Socket
- 1 inch Wrench/Socket
- Thin Flat Pry Tool (Scraper in my Case)
- Smaller Soldering Iron
- Wire Brushes
- Torx Set
- Sandpaper

Materials Needed
- Grease
- Solder
- Carb Cleaner


Motor Removal

Youíll want to start by removing the lift gate fascia, by removing the rear defroster plugs. Then continue on, by removing the five screws in the fascia; two where the lift window latches, two on either side of the handle and one on the bottom.



Work your way around the fascia pulling on the pop/snap clips holding it on, a few are really in there so it might take a bit of muscle to pull them. If thereís one thing Iíve learned with the pop clips, itís that a firm constant pull works much better than any sort of jerking motion. Behind the plastic, there will be a rubber cover that you can just pull off; there will be some adhesive holding it on.



Go to the outside of the hatch now, and if you havenít already, remove the wiper arm. Grab your thin prying tool and remove the cover where the shaft comes through the hatch. Behind it you will find a 1inch nut that will need to be removed. You will want to do this before loosening the inner bolts as it will probably be fairly tight and you will end up bending the arms that hold the motor if they arenít secured (just trust me on this one, took me a while to get them bent back to where they should be).



Now go inside and remove the plug and the two 10mm bolts holding the motor in. After this, the motor should just fall out into your hands.



Disassembly of Motor

Youíll now need to take the plastic piece that covers the circuit board. (Ignore the missing torx screws, I jumped the gun while taking it apart and didnít take pics when I should have). It simply pulls off after removing the snap clips on the outside.



Now remove the 3 torx screws that are holding on the piece secured to the circuit board. After removing the screws, to remove the board and piece combination, you will need to heat up the solder connection to the motor enough to melt the solder.



Now before removing the shaft with the gear attached, mark the gear so when you put it back in, you can line it back up to where it was when removing. Now depending on how rusted your shaft is, it may take varying degrees of force to remove the shaft. Mine was in there hard enough that I had to knock on it with a hammer a few times to get it to break free. Just be careful not to pry on the plastic gear, as you will most likely break it that way. Once you have the plastic gear out of the way, test the motor to see if it really was the shaft or the motor is shot, take some leads and hook the motor up to a 12v power source, (for example your car battery) just for a second, if it moves its good, if not, the motor is shot and you can stop here. This will help later in determining if something went wrong when reassembling if it works here and not later.



Restoration

I used a combination of wire brushes, pipe cleaners, sandpaper, carb cleaner and old paper towels to clean both the shaft and the track that the shaft goes in. You wanna get all that gunk/rust/corrosion/etc out of there so itís clean shiny metal.



I took some of the grease that was already on the gear and spread it around a bit better than it had been, figuring it wasnít doing much in places that didnít touch anything.



Now youíll want to apply some fresh grease to the shaft. Do NOT make the mistake I did and use too much!. I put way too much on and ended up having to wipe out a ton of it just to get the shaft to go back in.



Put the circuit board back onto the motor, secure the torx screws and put a new bead of solder on each of the leads for the motor. Replace the plastic cover and then the motor reassembly is done.



Put the motor back into the door, tightening the two 10mm bolts first, then the 1inch nut on the outside. Make sure you place the seals in the correct order before putting the nut on. Remember to plug the harness back in and then reattach the plastic door covering. You can either reattach it with some adhesive again, or go for the extra dose of class as I did and use duct tape, haha. At this point, you might want to close the door and see if it works.



Replace the fascia and reattach the defroster plug. Make sure to put the plug on the right way, with the release button facing you so you can access it should you ever need to take them off again. (If you look in the previous pic with the plug, you will notice it is reversed, whoever touched it before me put it on the wrong way, took me a few minutes with a screwdriver to get it).



And now youíre done and free to enjoy your refurbished and (hopefully) now working rear wiper.

Dan_in_MN likes this.

99' WJ, 2.5" Rusty's, Bilstein 5100's, JKS TrackBar, Moog SuperTrailBoss
"With enough fabbing, time & $, it's certainly possible.
That being said, it's like boinkin' your sister...just because you can, doesn't mean you should." - Double E
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post #2 of 12 Old 03-24-2012, 06:09 AM
dr hook
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nice write up.

Lifted ZJ with stuff.
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post #3 of 12 Old 12-22-2012, 03:16 PM
Ravie
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And don't be stupid like me and ruin the threads by pounding on them because you weren't thinking straight......

1999 WJ - Over 10k on the 4.0 rebuild. FB/BDS 2" lift (2.5") w/Bilstein 5125's. General Class Ham...KC0LUA
Burlbook48 sez "Nothing moves a project along faster than cubic dollars." Certified Thread Killer.
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post #4 of 12 Old 12-23-2012, 02:51 PM Thread Starter
mycreativename
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ravie
And don't be stupid like me and ruin the threads by pounding on them because you weren't thinking straight......
How bad?

99' WJ, 2.5" Rusty's, Bilstein 5100's, JKS TrackBar, Moog SuperTrailBoss
"With enough fabbing, time & $, it's certainly possible.
That being said, it's like boinkin' your sister...just because you can, doesn't mean you should." - Double E
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post #5 of 12 Old 12-24-2012, 01:28 AM
MadderThanMax
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Awesome Write up! And nice sized piccies instead of the ones that fill the screen... Great Stuff Man!
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post #6 of 12 Old 05-31-2013, 05:52 PM
gpmot
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Hey my motor works but the wiper dosent make a full sweep all the time. Any thoughts on what the problem could be?
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post #7 of 12 Old 12-24-2014, 02:30 AM
Treleaven
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Before I tried this, my motor would click, but after I tried it there was nothing. All well, great write up and very easy to follow. Will pick on up from the wreckers or online seeing mine is pooched and the rear window is a dirty filthy film magnet.

98 XJ Auto
33x12.5R15 KO2
4" w/ Fender cut n fold
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post #8 of 12 Old 12-25-2014, 09:11 AM Thread Starter
mycreativename
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Did you check the solder connections and test the motor while it was disconnected from everything?

99' WJ, 2.5" Rusty's, Bilstein 5100's, JKS TrackBar, Moog SuperTrailBoss
"With enough fabbing, time & $, it's certainly possible.
That being said, it's like boinkin' your sister...just because you can, doesn't mean you should." - Double E
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post #9 of 12 Old 12-25-2016, 11:59 AM
CJeep
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Old thread, the pictures are, apparently, gone. But, between this and a youtube video, I just R&R'ed the rear wiper motor on my 2004. Unlike the video with the 1999 on youtube, mine had two sleeves on the shaft, like bushings I'd say. The one closest to the end seemed pressed in place - I didn't try to move it. The rear one was loose.

Anyway, hardest part was the de-solder and re-solder. I'm just not good at soldering, and my soldering iron is a bit on the weak side. Of course, some of the interior clips and tabs broke while removing the trim panel, but I expected as much.

In all, this fix cost $0 - hopefully it will last for a while - 13 years and 100,000 miles, so if I get half that going forward, I'll be happy.

I hope anyone else who has this problem gives it a try - just not that hard, and I bet a mechanic would charge at least 2 hrs. labor and $80 or more for a new motor.

'82 Scrambler - NV4500/4.5" lift/33" Toyo MTs/4.0/twin stick, and my windshield washers work! Full 1/2 cab Cage



2004 Grand Limited 4.7 HO - OH Boy!

2010 Grand Laredo 5.7 Hemi - SICK - back for a second time!

"Both my Doberman and my Jeep can accurately be described as 'black and rust.'"
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post #10 of 12 Old 01-11-2017, 03:06 PM
Thaiwoo
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What were your symptoms on the wiper? Mine was making some loud noises for a while. Yesterday it made a loud clunk and then nothing and a few seconds later a light clunk. That's it. I wiggled the arm and for once it turned slowly and then the clunks again.

Would dismantling and lubricating do the trick?
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post #11 of 12 Old 01-11-2017, 05:48 PM
CJeep
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Mine just slowed down until one day it no longer moved at all. No clunking for me. I would give it a shot your clunking may have been jumping splines or something.

'82 Scrambler - NV4500/4.5" lift/33" Toyo MTs/4.0/twin stick, and my windshield washers work! Full 1/2 cab Cage



2004 Grand Limited 4.7 HO - OH Boy!

2010 Grand Laredo 5.7 Hemi - SICK - back for a second time!

"Both my Doberman and my Jeep can accurately be described as 'black and rust.'"
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post #12 of 12 Old 01-11-2017, 06:47 PM
Dan_in_MN
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Mine isn't working and I do hear clicking. I have taken apart other wiper motors and will work on this one.

2000 WJ Grand Cherokee Black 236,000+ miles
Needs: Left rear wheel bearing. Front right CV joint.
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