Rear Upper Control Arm-- Bushings???? - Page 2 - JeepForum.com

View Poll Results: Best Brand of bushings with longest life.
Mopar 17 58.62%
Dorman 4 13.79%
Omix 0 0%
Crown 2 6.90%
Other- Please post other options. 6 20.69%
Voters: 29. You may not vote on this poll

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post #16 of 28 Old 02-13-2013, 10:24 PM
shaban
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1996 ZJ 
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Yarraville
Posts: 571
Just had a negative experience with the bushings.

I wanted to have my lower control arms replaced (they were pretty worn out and squeaking).
Ordered lower and upper control arms with bushings from Morris 4x4, they turned out to be crown brand.

Anyway, before installing them I decided to test them so I put them in a vice. I clamped the central sleeve (where the bolt goes), done the vice up really tight so that the sleeve wouldn't spin. Tried giving the control arms a good twist up and down.

Half of them bushings spun around the center sleeve! Looks like the rubber didn't stick to the sleeves for some reason.
With the other half that didn't spin around the sleeve, the outer sleeve spun inside the control arm - what sort of crap is that?
Anyway, I picked the good bushings that didn't spin on the inner sleeve, re-fitted them to the control arms and put a tack with my stick welder so that outer sleeve wouldn't
spin.

Had them installed, two months later the squeak returns. Upon inspection, it turned out that the rubber pard slid out sideways of the control arm, and the control
arm was rubbing against a bracket!

Anyway, I'm not going for any non-OEM bushings any more. There are heaps of $10 a piece on Ebay, but I suspect it's hard to bet on their quality.
Bottom ones are not too bad to replace, so cheapies are maybe an option. But uppers are a real PITA to replace, so my advice would be to go with MOPAR for at least the uppers.

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post #17 of 28 Old 09-03-2013, 03:44 PM
cykaaro
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2000 WJ 
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: orangville
Posts: 2,841
I've gone with RE for the uppers, and RC for the lowers for fronts. Both have rebuildable bushing on the frame end, and can be tightened if needed. LCA's axle end are replaceable, and of course the dreaded upper axle end bushings. Rears I've gone OEM for the lowers, and first line for the a-arm.

The beatings will continue until attitudes improve!

HID Quad bi-xenon + foglight retrofit
http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/showthread.php?44572-Jeep-2000-Grand-Cherokee-WJ
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post #18 of 28 Old 09-03-2013, 06:07 PM Thread Starter
darule336
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2000 WJ 
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: MN
Posts: 146
Been away from the forum for a bit. Been back and forth about selling my wj. Kept it thus far and would like to say that the mopar bushings have last by far the best. Pretty sure I have 10k miles on them and look the same as when I put them in. DO NOT cheap out on this part. This is NOT the easiest repair and the extra money is well spent so buy mopar bushings. I have eliminated this clunk from my vehicle. The only one remaining is my napa sway bar links 3rd set. The clunk but its different. I have a stock wj here if your stock I would remain stock with mopar bushings.
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post #19 of 28 Old 09-03-2013, 09:08 PM
cykaaro
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Here basically you have a choice of first line or second line parts. First are the higher quality, but cost more. Second line are the more budget oriented ones. I always go first line when it comes to things like hubs, brakes and suspension. Can't always really afford, but don't want to have an issue and turn aound and have to replace the same thing agian.

The beatings will continue until attitudes improve!

HID Quad bi-xenon + foglight retrofit
http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/showthread.php?44572-Jeep-2000-Grand-Cherokee-WJ
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post #20 of 28 Old 09-04-2013, 09:39 AM
99WJCHRIS
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1999 WJ 
 
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Location: Richmond, VA
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This thread makes me want to say F it and get a whole after market off road A-arm!

99 WJ,4" Lift, 265/75/16 Treadwrights, RC wheel spacers, Sound System, CB, HID's with amberless headlights, Rola Rack...ect.ect. Money pit!
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post #21 of 28 Old 09-04-2013, 10:05 AM
skain8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99WJCHRIS View Post
This thread makes me want to say F it and get a whole after market off road A-arm!
You may want to research a bit before making that decision.

'02 WJ: 4.7L, 5", HP44/9", 231HD, tall & skinny KM2's
Half-Ton axle swap guide
231HD build info

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post #22 of 28 Old 09-04-2013, 03:00 PM
Tollmtn
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2004 WJ 
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99WJCHRIS View Post
This thread makes me want to say F it and get a whole after market off road A-arm!
I made that mistake, do NOT buy any so called "offroad A arm" that has OEM style aftermarket rubber bushings. You do not gain a thing over OEM you are actually worse off as they are not OEM quality period.

And really avoid the A arm that advertizes "Bushing angles corrected for lifted WJ's". That is the one I have, at 4" of lift the sleeves were welded on at an over corrected angle that puts the bushings in a worse bind than they are in a stock arm with a spacer.

The best aftermarket A arms on the market come with 3 QUALITY flex joints or a flex joint and heim ends. They are a definite big step up over stock.

Now I have gone down another road. Compared to other 4X4s I have owned my WJ drove like the back tires were low on air. Like others I came to the conclusion the way the rubber bushing mount in the A arm was a major contributor to the loose feeling. Sooo! I changed my A arm mounting arrangement and bushing type to an experimental style that I designed for self satisfaction. Now the body end pivot points are oriented like they are in an IFS control arm so they have zero side play and zero bind in up or down travel. The difference in handling is amazing. When I corner the feeling like the tires are flat is gone and on the highway it no longer requires extra steering to correct for a$$ end wander. I really do not notice a road noise difference but my tires are not exactly silent.

Below is what I thought of the made in Taiwan bushings and the way they were welded on my aftermarket expensive A arm.

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post #23 of 28 Old 09-04-2013, 08:13 PM
99WJCHRIS
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1999 WJ 
 
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Location: Richmond, VA
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Ok. So currently I've got a KOR spacer and bushings that are so warn my a-arm is flopping around. Would y'all who know best recommend going through the pita route of replacing with Mopar bushings and new ball joint or getting IRO A-arm. I'm on 4"s and wheel a handful of times a year.

Sorry to thread jack..

99 WJ,4" Lift, 265/75/16 Treadwrights, RC wheel spacers, Sound System, CB, HID's with amberless headlights, Rola Rack...ect.ect. Money pit!
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post #24 of 28 Old 09-05-2013, 09:17 AM
Merc1973
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Location: Sykesville, MD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tollmtn View Post
I made that mistake, do NOT buy any so called "offroad A arm" that has OEM style aftermarket rubber bushings. You do not gain a thing over OEM you are actually worse off as they are not OEM quality period.

And really avoid the A arm that advertizes "Bushing angles corrected for lifted WJ's". That is the one I have, at 4" of lift the sleeves were welded on at an over corrected angle that puts the bushings in a worse bind than they are in a stock arm with a spacer.

The best aftermarket A arms on the market come with 3 QUALITY flex joints or a flex joint and heim ends. They are a definite big step up over stock.

Now I have gone down another road. Compared to other 4X4s I have owned my WJ drove like the back tires were low on air. Like others I came to the conclusion the way the rubber bushing mount in the A arm was a major contributor to the loose feeling. Sooo! I changed my A arm mounting arrangement and bushing type to an experimental style that I designed for self satisfaction. Now the body end pivot points are oriented like they are in an IFS control arm so they have zero side play and zero bind in up or down travel. The difference in handling is amazing. When I corner the feeling like the tires are flat is gone and on the highway it no longer requires extra steering to correct for a$$ end wander. I really do not notice a road noise difference but my tires are not exactly silent.

Below is what I thought of the made in Taiwan bushings and the way they were welded on my aftermarket expensive A arm.

Care to elaborate on your Custom setup???

2002 WJ Ltd. 4.7 V8, QuadraDrive
1973 Mercury Cougar Xr7 convertible 351CJ, C6, 9" rear
1970 Kaiser-Jeep M35A2 W/OW 6x6 Multifuel D-Turbo.


ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ!
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post #25 of 28 Old 09-05-2013, 10:11 AM
Tollmtn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99WJCHRIS View Post
Ok. So currently I've got a KOR spacer and bushings that are so warn my a-arm is flopping around. Would y'all who know best recommend going through the pita route of replacing with Mopar bushings and new ball joint or getting IRO A-arm. I'm on 4"s and wheel a handful of times a year.

Sorry to thread jack..

In this poll I voted for the Mopar bushings, they are by far the best. The same goes for the OEM ball joint, It last very well considering the job it has to do. I doubt you can buy an aftermarket part that will last as well. You already have a spacer so replace your bushings and ball joint with Mopar original parts.

On your I.R.O question....I guess I should have been a little more specific in my last post. The aftermarket A arm I was pointing out as inferior to an OEM part was Iron Rocks, there are better offroad A arm on the market. My IRO A arm was a poorly engineered piece of junk with a funky backyard mechanic design type flex joint on one end and made in Taiwan rubber bushings that were welded on at the wrong angle at the other. It had a host of issues, the only thing that stands out as an improvement over OEM about it was the paint job and cosmetics.
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post #26 of 28 Old 09-05-2013, 10:17 AM
99WJCHRIS
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OK! That's what I was looking for. Thanks for the help on my issue! Sorry about your luck with the A-arm.

99 WJ,4" Lift, 265/75/16 Treadwrights, RC wheel spacers, Sound System, CB, HID's with amberless headlights, Rola Rack...ect.ect. Money pit!
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post #27 of 28 Old 09-05-2013, 04:48 PM
Tollmtn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Merc1973 View Post
Care to elaborate on your Custom setup???
Well I guess that would be OK, it adds another type of bushing to the mix lol. Before I made the change over in bushings I thought of four or five different ways this could be done, I settled on the simplest. The total cost for the two complete 2 5/8" width, 2" OD, 1/4" wall DOM, sleeved for 9/16" bolts, bushing kits was $30.00. I did have to drill and tap for grease fittings. The adapter bar is 1.5" X 3/16" wall, the link tabs are 3/8", the bolts are 9/16".

The bushings will likely last longer than I will own this Jeep,... I keep thinking about a JK. But if they had to be replaced, a complete set of bushings cost $4.40. It would take less than an hour to change them and no special tools would be needed. The Summit Machine Flex joint that I replaced the crappy IRO joint with is a keeper, lots of trail miles on it now and it is as tight as day one.

The last picture is after testing, I added two grade eight bolts through existing holes so If I had to remove and reinstall it would go back in exactly the same spot.. In that picture also notice how flat the A arm sits at 4" of lift. You can see the A arm had been modified in length on the flex joint end so it actually has adjustment to set pinion angle dead on and two lock nuts can be used.









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post #28 of 28 Old 09-05-2013, 08:31 PM
Merc1973
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WOW!!!

Sign me up if you want to make another...

2002 WJ Ltd. 4.7 V8, QuadraDrive
1973 Mercury Cougar Xr7 convertible 351CJ, C6, 9" rear
1970 Kaiser-Jeep M35A2 W/OW 6x6 Multifuel D-Turbo.


ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ!
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