I replaced my rear shocks 04 grand laredo. Seems to have helped with the ride but now there is a clunking noise when hitting a bump or speed bump. all other driving seems to be fine. Made sure bolts are tight, not sure where to go next.
thanks for the response. checked swaybar and its tight.
I noticed that the bolt slid in pretty easy so that may be an idea.
I didnt think it make that much of a differene. So now the stupid is can i buy a spacer or a bolt with a larger diameter shaft but same threads? or is there another fix?
The upper rear shock mount sleeves are too short. It is best to take stock ones out of old shocks and reuse. If you still have them, that is the best option. You can go the inexpensive route and place large washers on either side of the sleeves and reinsert the bolt and tighten.
2002 Grand Cherokee Limited
2" BB Rusty's shocks
Pull out one of the bolts and look at it closely. You will find there is a step like a shoulder on it. Take it to the hardware store and get grade 8 metric bolts the same size and put those in. It should fix the problem. I went through the whole thing too replacing everything and not helping the problem till I looked at the shock mounting bolts.
I attached a pic of the bolt, Its not real clear but you can see where its worn, or made that way. I'm not sure which is the case.
__________________ 2013 Dodge Ram 1500 Express Quad Cab. 5.7L Hemi 6 speed automatic 3:55 gears LSD with 20 inch rubber 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 4.0L 2003 Nissan 350Z Enthusiast Model 6 speed manual 2002 Audi A6 Avant Quattro 3.0L Auto
my 2002 GC was doing the same thing. I put new shocks all around. you have to crank them down in the back bigtime. Use and implact and it will squeeze the steel bracket tight to the shock.
I was a bit concerned about breaking the bolt but it drew it in nicely and tight to the shock.
no more clunks.
thanks for all the posts. i have my brackets pretty tight so im thinking its the up and down on the bolt and not side to side. I will get different bolts in a couple of days and let you know what i find.
If this doesn't solve the issue, I think the upper A-arm is in question, ...right gents?
I ask because after replacing shocks, I still kave some clunks over big bumps and big road imperfections.
2000 Laredo 4.7L Selec-Trac. 177K miles, Leather, 245 tires, tow package, crappy CD changer, full size spare, roof cross-rails & sunroof. Changes & fixes: Rear Addco sway bar & greasble bushings, upgraded headlights, upgraded tail lights, new hood struts (replaced 2X), new rear hatchglass struts, new radiator (replaced 3X), new oil pressure sending unit (replaced 4X), 2 new speed sensors, 2 new door lock actuators, new ignition key cylinder, chrome front tow hooks, Mobil 1 Synthetic 5/30, Purolator Pure One oil filter, EBC slotted & dimpled rotors, EBC Greenstuff pads, new front shocks (replaced 3X), new rear shocks (replaced 2X), new IRO steering stabilizer, new timing chain cover, new water pump, thermostat, new thermostat housing, new high pressure power steering hose, Michelin-X radials, new sunroof assembly, new single-piece lug nuts, new exhaust manifold studs & gasket on driver's side, new Durango alternator. Jeepforum.com sticker, Visit cobaltboatsforum.com when you can!
I've got a 2004 laredo and got the same clunking after replacing the factory shocks with MonroeSensa-Trac Light Truck Shock Absorber from Advance Auto. bought them online and used a $50 promo code I found online. Picked them up at the store an hour later-great deal 4 shocks for $135 and these are a step up from OEM I believe.....
Anyway, after reading here about clunks, and not being able to find washers that fit in my junk box, I just tightened the top bolt down really hard-really hard-It's a huge bolt and I don't think it will snap very easily. Took it around the block and the clunking is gone.
By the way it took me 1 1/2 hours to replace all four and didn't have to even use a jack-these shocks came with a plactic band around the upper and lower keeping them at the exact length for the back. the front I had to cut the band and muscle the shock smaller into place-not that big of a deal for an old man of 52.
After searhing the forum...finding out about the clunk, bought new bolts for rear uppers and guess what? The stout bolt on top snapped on the way out! Yea! So tonight we spent hours trying to remove it, and no such luck. Now I have the threaded internal bushing with remaining metal from drilled out bolt. I have no access from other side. So not I drilled holes above the unibody rail and took a peek. The threaded bushing appears to be the entire width of the rail. I'm guessing it is either welded or pressed into position. I may be opening up the hole bigger in cargo area gain access and figure out how to use a bolt, washer, nut combo. This will make it a ***** for shock replacement in future, but cannot find another solution.