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Unread 09-29-2013, 06:47 PM   #1
bmorash
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Wj Rear Main Seal 4.0 Grand Cherokee 2000 WJ

This write up is for the 4.0 inline 6 cylinder rear main seal replacement. This was a particularly dirty nasty job but worth the five hours of time to stop the leak. First everything is metric so don't worry about the SAE set.

Parts required (ones I bought in parens):
1. Lots of clean rags
2. New oil pan gasket (Feltpro OS6040)
3. Oil Filter (Fram PH16)
4. 6 Quarts of oil (Mobil 1 Synthetic 10W-30)
5. Rear main seal (Felpro RS29880 )
6. Anerobic gasket sealer (Loctite 38655 515 Gasket Maker Flange Sealant )
7. Primer for gasket sealer (OCTITE 37509 Klean 'N Prime Anaerobic Activator Aerosol Can)
8. Hard wood dowel
9. PB Blaster
10. Very small zip ties

I have car ramps so this assumes you are getting the vehicle up and out of the way.

First you will need to remove or move the following to make this easy.
1. Front Sway bar (just drop about an inch)
2. Starter motor (you don't need to remove the exhaust manifold)
3. Rubber splash guard under front of engine.
4. Transmission bell housing lower cover and bracket 3 bolts 1 nut

Once you have all those out of the way and the oil is drained you can start on the oil pan. Frankly there was another post that recommended draining the oil the entire night before and I agree now. Throughout this evolution little drops of oil continued to rain down so getting it "really" out before can only make this less painful.

I removed each bolt one by one and used an old cardboard box to push each nut or stud into it in the exact order it came out. I made a little diagram on the box labeled (front, back, driver, passenger) to keep the orientation. The bolts and studs are either 12mm, 13, or 14.

This was pretty methodical but made reinstallation a snap. On the driver side next to the upper catalytic converters the black and white wire for the O2 sensors run under a fire resistant pad with fasteners. This was a bit of a bear to get out but save the pad and if you don't trash the fasteners you can reuse them too. Once you have the pan loose you can wiggle the pan off. It was very simple.

Pull out and clean it really well and put to the side.

You need to remove the brace that runs down the entire engine. This had at least 10 nuts retaining it. I never took it out but moved it back one set of studs to get it out of the way of the rear bearing cap/main seal holder.

Remove the two bolts holding the bearing cap. It was pretty stuck on there and I needed a rubber mallet to loosen it. The color of the replacement seal is exactly the same so when you remove them make sure you keep them apart (lesson learned). The replacement one had little tabs on it that I cut off with a razor.

The upper seal is a "BEAR"... After becoming frustrated and almost resorting to a metal pusher I finally sprayed PB blaster on it and had lunch. After a 30 minute wait I went back to tap it with my dowel and it came right out.

After cleaning the area of all of the oil with a very clean rag (no dirt in the engine). I sprayed the activator on the sealing area. Wait two minutes then put a "dab" of the sealer on the tips of each end of the upper seal ends. I did the same with the replacement lower seal (just a dab). After replacing the lower bearing cap I torqued it to the 86 ft.lbs.

Then replace the bracket you removed earlier.

To replace the oil pan with the new bracket after a bit of trial and error I remembered an old post about using thread to hold the gasket in place with some of sealer. While the thread didn't work I used about 8 little tiny zip ties to hold it in place. I screwed in a number of the bolts/studs and snipped the ties pulling them out in one piece (no thread left in the equation). After you get the bolts and studs snugged down you should replace everything else.

I did end up with one extra bolt at the end and realized this AM that it was the upper bolt for the transmission bell housing cover. Not a requirement but annoying I had a left over bolt. Next time I change the oil I'll put it back in.

That was pretty much it. Not technically hard but very dirty. I can only give my accolades to the person who invented PB Blaster. To you sir (lift glass drink beer)...

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Unread 10-01-2013, 07:42 PM   #2
bmorash
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Two day update. I went underneath tonight and everything is dry. I have driven at least 100 miles so I'm pretty confident that the fix is done. I replaced the remaining bolt on the transmission bell housing cover.
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Unread 10-01-2013, 08:23 PM   #3
gcjeeping
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If your gunna move or remove starter you need to add to steps to disconnect/reconnect battery.

Good write up though.



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Unread 10-01-2013, 11:18 PM   #4
nolimitssjca
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Very nice work and good write up.
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Unread 10-02-2013, 12:43 AM   #5
rep-tile
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmorash View Post
3. Oil Filter (Fram PH16)
No thank you.

The proper torque for the bearing cap is 80 lbs, not 86.
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Unread 10-02-2013, 01:16 PM   #6
wsar10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rep-tile View Post
No thank you.

The proper torque for the bearing cap is 80 lbs, not 86.
this is a concern of mine, and has prevented me form doing mine ( I have very minor leak starting).
How can you just "re-torque" to factory spec ? That spec if for a brand new bearing and rod journal and crank......

I would think you should "plasti-guage" the bearing cap to get the proper torque spec for a bearing that has worn over the past 100K mi or so.
Yes ??
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QUOTE=billzcat1;wsar10 is right on point on this oil thread - as usual. Anyone reading this would be well-served taking his advice.


-03 WJ laredo 4.0 120k a few minor mods
-93 XJ 5spd, 3" zone lift
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Unread 10-02-2013, 04:56 PM   #7
new2site
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PO had this done on my 4.0 ...glad it's something I don't have to worry about now.
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Unread 10-02-2013, 05:33 PM   #8
nickblack
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I agree with wsar 100%. I recently did mine and I was leery about the 80 ft/lbs spec., but I went with it and so far so good. Another thing to be added is that you should finger tighten the bolts on the bearing cap and lightly tap it with a rubber mallet or brass hammer to "seat" the cap. I hadn't done this on an older 4.0 that I had, and when I rebuilt that engine, I found some scoring on 1 side of the bearing from front to back. I am sure this was because I didn't seat it properly when reinstalling. When putting on bearing caps, you should always seat them with a light tap before tightening them down.
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Unread 10-02-2013, 06:13 PM   #9
bmorash
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I am sure I could have explained how to remove the starter motor. But by that logic I should have explained how to move the rubber splash guard too. Simple is better. Yes I could have bought a more expensive filter but the complete lack of any sludge is testament to the quality of the filter and synthetics for 195k miles. I simply listed the part numbers I used. As for the torque setting dont know what to tell you. Guess we will find out if everything is too tight.
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Unread 10-03-2013, 12:13 AM   #10
rep-tile
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wsar10 View Post
this is a concern of mine, and has prevented me form doing mine ( I have very minor leak starting).
How can you just "re-torque" to factory spec ? That spec if for a brand new bearing and rod journal and crank......

I would think you should "plasti-guage" the bearing cap to get the proper torque spec for a bearing that has worn over the past 100K mi or so.
Yes ??
Specs are specs. It is the same regardless of the mileage. I would ball park the torque for something like a valve cover, but for a crankshaft, I would get to the torque specs as much as I can.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bmorash View Post
Yes I could have bought a more expensive filter but the complete lack of any sludge is testament to the quality of the filter and synthetics for 195k miles.
You could actually buy a much better filter for cheaper. But if you insist on running a low end oil pressure, hear valve train noise on startup (if you haven't, you will) or worse take the chance of getting a filter with a bad check valve, then stick with Fram.
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Unread 10-03-2013, 04:24 PM   #11
wsar10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rep-tile View Post
Specs are specs. It is the same regardless of the mileage. I would ball park the torque for something like a valve cover, but for a crankshaft, I would get to the torque specs as much as I can.


You could actually buy a much better filter for cheaper. But if you insist on running a low end oil pressure, hear valve train noise on startup (if you haven't, you will) or worse take the chance of getting a filter with a bad check valve, then stick with Fram.
you missed the point, your correct after I have had time to think about it, but your correct for the wrong reason

No, specs change as mileage progresses (not in this case), in bearing clearances or ANY metal wear part. (hence 40wt oil showing better wear number on higher mileage 4.0's, it provides more cushion to fill the increasing gap from bearing to crank, remember your crank floats).

That being said I was incorrect in my earlier post, you SHOULD torque to factory spec because your load point is the bearing cap and not the bearing itself. Your load point (based on downward force) does not change with mileage. If so you got bigger issues !
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QUOTE=billzcat1;wsar10 is right on point on this oil thread - as usual. Anyone reading this would be well-served taking his advice.


-03 WJ laredo 4.0 120k a few minor mods
-93 XJ 5spd, 3" zone lift
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Unread 11-14-2013, 06:42 PM   #12
indept
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I need to do mine but have a couple questions.

1.) You said you had ramps so you didn't let the front diff hang for clearance?
2.) Also I saw in the factory manual it said to undo the engine mounts & lift the engine by the crank damper, no need to do this?

Here is the manual instructions:

(10) Place a piece of wood (2 x 2) between the jack
stand and the engine vibration damper.
(11) Remove the engine mount through bolts.
(12) Using the jack stand, raise the engine until
adequate clearance is obtained to remove the oil pan.
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Unread 11-14-2013, 06:45 PM   #13
indept
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wsar10 View Post
this is a concern of mine, and has prevented me form doing mine ( I have very minor leak starting).
How can you just "re-torque" to factory spec ? That spec if for a brand new bearing and rod journal and crank......

I would think you should "plasti-guage" the bearing cap to get the proper torque spec for a bearing that has worn over the past 100K mi or so.
Yes ??
You wouldn't "re-torque" for too much clearance, you would put in a thicker bearing, the only thing going tighter will do once the cap meets the block is stretch (and stress) the bolts
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Unread 11-14-2013, 06:53 PM   #14
00jeepthing
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i just did mine last Sunday. good write up but some easier changes are. unbolt start n move aside don't have to disconnect wires. also jack up by axlea and use jack stands under frame. let the front axle hang free gives you plenty of clearance to take out pan with out even touching the trans in anyway. their is a two part video on YouTube that was really helpful. i replaced my oil pan because mine had some pretty bad rust spots by the manifold. i did this and heard this before instead of oil use a syringe and shoot dish soap in the upper seal cavity. it will burn off and create a nice tight seal. in stead of using the "shoe horn" the give you cut a point on a small section of a straw and cut down one side. this acts as a longer shoe horn easier to deal with.
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Unread 11-14-2013, 06:56 PM   #15
00jeepthing
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that brace he is refering to is called the windage tray if i remember correctly.
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