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Unread 08-17-2012, 02:43 PM   #1
itsmeonjeep
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Rear brake calipers sticking

My WJ went out for a test drive today after getting new discs, pads, shoes all round. I found that the rear discs were very hot so made the assumption that the handbrake shoes were adjusted wrong. Wrong! The pads were stuck by the piston.... I wound the piston back in (on both sides) and made sure slider pins were free and pads were able to move freely. All okay, so another test drive and same again. Looks like the pots or pistons won't retract for both rear calipers.

Could someone give me a link to a thread for hopefully a common problem like this? All I can find is problems with the front rotors, etc when searching.

Cheers

Keith

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Unread 08-17-2012, 02:58 PM   #2
hamilton5
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'very hot'? like smoke pouring out? you say the pistons won't retract, but you also say you were able to 'wound' (i assume push) back in..... afaik new pads/rotors will run a little hotter till broken in, maybe you just need to give it time.

Its odd both calipers would go at the same time.. but maybe so. I would see how it is removing the brake shoes just to verify.
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Unread 08-17-2012, 03:02 PM   #3
itcouldbeme
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When flexible brake lines break down inside, they can act as a one way valve, kind of like the valves in our blood vessels...

And cause what you are describing...
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Unread 08-17-2012, 03:07 PM   #4
itsmeonjeep
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Yeah smokin!!!

So by moving the flexible hoses about, I could've dislodged some crap inside?
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Unread 08-17-2012, 03:12 PM   #5
itsmeonjeep
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Oh crap. 30 a side for new hoses.
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Unread 08-18-2012, 06:12 AM   #6
itsmeonjeep
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Is it possible to remove the hoses and just blow them through using an airline?
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Unread 08-18-2012, 06:24 AM   #7
kastner03
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does rock auto ship over there? they have the hoses real cheap
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Unread 08-18-2012, 07:02 AM   #8
alfaitalia
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It wont be the hoses. Its one of those "in theory" jobs that dont happen real life. And it would have prob been the same b4 you changed the pads. Something is sticking. Prob need to remove the pistons from the calipers completely and clean them up. When was the last time you stripped and serviced them....if ever! Replace the seals and lube them with red rubber grease. All will be good then im sure. Ive had to do that on as couple of cars (not Jeeps!) after changing pads as the pistons get pushed back onto parts of the bore not used for a while and dislodge the crap nearer the front. Good luck with it though!
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Unread 08-18-2012, 07:27 AM   #9
CarlJH
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also check the bracket for wear ridges where the pads slide, mine started sticking when i put new pads in. fixed by filling the grooves with weld and
then grinding back to level.
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Unread 08-18-2012, 07:36 AM   #10
itsmeonjeep
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Rock auto will ship but cost to uk would mean cheaper buying in uk once import duty added.

The ridges are good as I gave them a good clean an buff when I had them dismantled.

As to the pots, I'm gonna do that and strip, clean buff. I did the front ones but I can't remember doing the rears. It's only going to cost my time to do that so worth a shot.

I'll blow through the hoses as well just for the hell of it!

Keep you posted

K

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Unread 08-19-2012, 08:26 AM   #11
itsmeonjeep
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Anyone know what the pots are made of? No corrosion on them at all and the inside of the caliper pot holder (?) was clear of any rust. So rebuilt everything, greased it all up and noticed that in order to get the pot to sit home completely, I had to use the g-clamp method. Very tight but can't see why this would be ?

Just waiting on my mate appearing to help bleed the brakes again. I know, I need to get an auto bleeder!

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Unread 08-19-2012, 12:11 PM   #12
itsmeonjeep
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Brakes bled and no change. Flexi brake pipe not got an issue either as I could blow air through it both ways whilst flexing it. I'm suspecting that the pot is still sticking in the caliper but I don't know why..... The inside of the piston is clean and the pot is clean. Seals look good so what am I missing?

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Unread 08-27-2012, 02:16 PM   #13
itsmeonjeep
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Here's some pics of my rear caliper. I've checked the piston and it's free of any marks. It's gives the impression that it bottoms out but I've included a pic which shows the maximum it can be pushed it without any force. I'm now assuming that the piston can go in further?


image-1951136042.jpg
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Unread 08-27-2012, 03:28 PM   #14
itcouldbeme
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Blowing through the flexi pipes won't show what I'm describing...

Apply ~1500 psi hydraulic pressure to the hose. The hose expands because it has broken down. The laminated construction of the hose causes the inner layer/layers to just be free floating in the fluid. Release pressure, and as the fluid flows "upstream" from the caliper, the inner layer snaps over to the wrong side effectively sealing off the fluid's ability to move upstream... (The fluid is being forced into the area between the laminations, not up the center)

May not be your problem, but that's how it works. I've seen it many times over the years...

If you're sure that everything in the caliper is moving freely, then you've got a one way valve somewhere. I've heard people talk about proportioning valves doing this, but I've never seen it. And I don't even know if WJ's have one...
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Unread 08-27-2012, 03:52 PM   #15
itsmeonjeep
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Thanks for the update. I'm still scratching my head over the pistons not going home properly though...
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