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Unread 04-29-2013, 09:59 PM   #16
Cebby
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That's my writeup - happy to report no leaks still. I don't recall what my mileage was when I replaced them, but I wrote the writeup in 2006. I think I was around 75k miles +/-. I'm at 185k now. Funny seeing my WJ with just a BB on it.

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Unread 04-30-2013, 06:20 AM   #17
RepomanNC
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need to jump on this thread here...

I have to do this since my passenger side is now leaking. My question pertains to "take the axles with the seals, bearings, collars and grease to your favorite automotive machine shop." Why exactly do I have to do this? Like I stated I've never did this before and any and all suggestions would be helpful.
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Unread 04-30-2013, 06:37 AM   #18
as350b3e
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If you have a hydraulic press, then no, you do not have to take the axle shafts to a shop.
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Unread 04-30-2013, 06:37 AM   #19
Cebby
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The new bearings and collar need to be pressed on to the axle shaft with a hydraulic press. I didn't have access to one that was working properly.
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Unread 04-30-2013, 07:14 AM   #20
RepomanNC
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Ohhhh. thanks! I may want to rethink me doing this myself. If I'm doing one it only makes sense to do both, correct?
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Unread 04-30-2013, 07:26 AM   #21
Cebby
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Yes do both while you have it apart. My passenger side was leaking, driver side was OK, but why rip it apart twice?
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Unread 04-30-2013, 11:14 AM   #22
as350b3e
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On mine the opposite is happening. It's the driver side that is leaking.

I also need to change the rear pinion seal and I am kind of scared to do it.
The reason being that my WJ has 245000 km (153000 mi.) on it.
With that many miles on the car what are the chances that I will have to replace the pinion yoke as well to stop the leak because of excessive wear around the pinion shaft?
Also, what are the chances of having to use a new crush spacer?

I need my Jeep DD and can't afford to have everything apart and wait for parts.
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Unread 04-30-2013, 10:16 PM   #23
99WJ539918
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Most people say to replace the crush collar at the same time. You shouldn't have an issue wih anything else.
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Unread 04-30-2013, 11:11 PM   #24
as350b3e
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Thanks for info. So I'll get a new crush collar and a new nut and seal and when I replace the axle seals I will check for rotation torque while the axles are out, right?
Also, since I use a new crush collar, do I have to have the exact same rotational torque as with the old crush collar in? I read in a write up that if the old crush collar is used an additional 5 in./lbs of torque should be applied.
I checked to day with the dealer and they told be it will take anywhere from 1 to 1.5 hrs. of shoptime. At the rate of $210 / hr. it is rather pricey.......
I sometimes hate this ......... place!
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Unread 05-02-2013, 10:32 PM   #25
as350b3e
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What could happen if the rear axle bearings are installed backwards?
I took my axle shafts to a driveline shop and they pressed the bearings on backwards.
The guy told me that it won't matter which way they are installed.....
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Unread 05-02-2013, 11:39 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by as350b3e View Post
What could happen if the rear axle bearings are installed backwards?
I took my axle shafts to a driveline shop and they pressed the bearings on backwards.
The guy told me that it won't matter which way they are installed.....
They won't go all the way on backwards. They have a curved edge that fits against a curve on the outer most part of the shaft. If you put them on backwards then the bearings will be about a quarter of an inch from where it should be and the shaft will not go all the way into the axle tube. Get it corrected fast before you damage the shaft or the axle. If you have driven it like that you might well have already damaged the retaining plate that stops the shaft from sliding out when you tightened the four bolts without it being able to be flush against the e brake plate.

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Unread 05-03-2013, 08:44 AM   #27
Cebby
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alfaitalia View Post
They won't go all the way on backwards. They have a curved edge that fits against a curve on the outer most part of the shaft. If you put them on backwards then the bearings will be about a quarter of an inch from where it should be and the shaft will not go all the way into the axle tube. Get it corrected fast before you damage the shaft or the axle. If you have driven it like that you might well have already damaged the retaining plate that stops the shaft from sliding out when you tightened the four bolts without it being able to be flush against the e brake plate.

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And after they fix it, never use that shop again... I hope you don't have to buy any new parts because of their screw up (ie collars or bearings)
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Unread 05-03-2013, 09:51 PM   #28
as350b3e
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Well, I got the bearings replaced and yes, I had to buy another set of bearings and collars as well as two new seals. Probably was not necessary to buy new seals but I just wanted to make sure I had all the parts at hand since I absolutly need my WJ by Tuesday night.
Pat's Driveline in Fort McMurray, Canada are a joke. I phoned them this morning and told them that the bearings for sure are installed incorrectly. He quickly said they installed them according to my instructions. I never gave instruction at all, just ask if they can press the bearings on. I ask them if they can get new bearings and the answer came very quickly with a firm "NO". At first they were going to charge me another C$100 to press them in (minimum 1/2 hour shop rate at C$195/hour...), but finally gave in and told be to bring in the bearings.

I still have a humming sound coming from the rear of my car and I am afraid it is the diff. It starts at around 30mph but is not very loud at all. I got Castrol 80/90 gear lube in it. Would full synthetic oil be better for my diff? I kn ow it is not a fix but will it prolong the life of the diff?
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Unread 05-03-2013, 10:00 PM   #29
Cebby
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Check u-joint for slop.
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Unread 05-03-2013, 10:13 PM   #30
as350b3e
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The U joint is where the rear driveshaft is connected to the pinion yoke, right? They are quite tight, checked them already......The pinion yoke is tight as well, there is no play at all.
When I had the cover off the rear diff there was some metal on the magnet but nothing too excessive.
One thing I noticed is that maybe the sound can come from the ebrake assembly. I will have to remove the brake calipers and then install the wheels and spin them so I will know if there is some kind of grinding going on. I have a feeling that where the ebrake pads come together on top that this part is rubbing on the brake disc at a certain point. I am not sure, I still have a lot to learn about cars, I am more of a Helicopter Mechanic......but I really enjoy working on my WJ.
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