Rear axle seal removal - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 30 Old 04-26-2013, 06:49 PM Thread Starter
as350b3e
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Rear axle seal removal

Quick question,

is a slide hammer absolutely necessary to remove the rear axle? I'd hate to spend an extra $150.

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post #2 of 30 Old 04-26-2013, 07:03 PM
Jeffro06
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I don't know the answer to that (but am inclined to say you don't), but I'm sure you could find a autoparts store that loans/rents tools.
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post #3 of 30 Old 04-26-2013, 07:13 PM Thread Starter
as350b3e
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Here in Fort McMurray where the shop rate is $210 /hr at dealer there is no such thing as renting tools......
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post #4 of 30 Old 04-26-2013, 07:26 PM
Jeffro06
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Not a dealer, a parts store.
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post #5 of 30 Old 04-26-2013, 07:31 PM
SuperStew11
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Yes you do need a slide hammer to take off your axles, changed my seal and bearings last year
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post #6 of 30 Old 04-26-2013, 07:34 PM
RevNL
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Since I was replacing the discs at the same time, I bolted the discs on backwards and beat on them with a hammer until the axle came out. It didn't really take a lot of effort.
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post #7 of 30 Old 04-26-2013, 07:34 PM Thread Starter
as350b3e
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Ok, I guess I will need to get a slide hammer then.
Thanks.
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post #8 of 30 Old 04-26-2013, 07:45 PM
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like said before, the local auto parts store may have a rental tool program... advanced auto, oreillys, autozone all near me do so. cost me $35 to rent a slide hammer with a full refund upon return of tool within 48hrs. although i did pull the rear axles without one. i did this:


i used a torch for the holes but a drill and bit would work just fine. flat plate would work also if it is thick enough not to bend when whacked.

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post #9 of 30 Old 04-26-2013, 08:03 PM
CarlJH
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I used the rotors on backwards method to do mine.
use 3 lug nuts to hold it, piece of wood to protect the rotor,
pull the rotor against the lug nuts so you don't damage them when you hit it.
having someone help either with the hammer or holding part makes it a lot easier.
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post #10 of 30 Old 04-26-2013, 11:17 PM
99WJ539918
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarlJH View Post
I used the rotors on backwards method to do mine.
use 3 lug nuts to hold it, piece of wood to protect the rotor,
pull the rotor against the lug nuts so you don't damage them when you hit it.
having someone help either with the hammer or holding part makes it a lot easier.
This is what all the techs did at the dealership. Not hard at all.
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post #11 of 30 Old 04-27-2013, 11:42 AM
mycreativename
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Another rotor user here. Its really not that difficult to get them off.

Good luck.

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That being said, it's like boinkin' your sister...just because you can, doesn't mean you should." - Double E
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post #12 of 30 Old 04-27-2013, 09:07 PM Thread Starter
as350b3e
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Thanks for the info. One thing I am not quite sure bout is this:

Quote:
Originally Posted by lazebum View Post
OK - you'll notice the e-brake is off already. I staged the last two pics for the sake of the writeup.
Here's a good pic of the reassembled e-brake setup for reference. The spring clips and retainer pins must be removed to pull this assembly. It was pretty easy with the axle removed - gave much more room to work on it.

[/URL]

E-brake Setup

Take your axle over to your drillpress if you have one (hand drill would probably work too). Use a 3/8" bit to drill into the collar. IMPORTANT: be sure not to drill into the axle - you just want to weaken the collar by removing some materal.

[/URL]

Drilling Collar

Take a cold chisel and place a corner of it in the hole you drilled and give it a whack.

[/URL]

Cold Chisel to the Drilled Collar

This will crack the collar and make it slip right off.

[/URL]

Collar Split

[/URL]

Collar can be removed

Repeat this process for the other side and take the axles with the seals, bearings, collars and grease to your favorite automotive machine shop.
Now's a good time to clean up your rear brake sheilds and other stuff that was coated in oil. What a filthy job this was.

[/URL]

Cleaned up brake shield

One thing - make sure you pull the old bearing race out of the axle tube. These are designed to seat in the axle tube when you seat the axle assembly.

[/URL]

Bearing Race

Now that you have your axles back from the machine shop, you are ready to reassemble. I reassembled the e-brake prior to reinserting the axles since I liked the extra room to work with. Here's the axle ready to go back in:

[/URL]

Assembled Axle

Insert the axles back into the tubes and carefully get the splines engaged into the diff. Make sure you keep the axles on the correct sides - they are not the same length. Once you feel the axle seat, give it a couple of tapes with a deadblow mallet. Reinstall the nuts on the axle flange studs.
Time to adjust the e-brake shows. Slip the rotor back on the axle and rotate it listening for the shoes dragging. The piece next to the spring with the wheel on it is rotated to extend/retract the e-brake the shoe position. They make a special tool for this, but I just used a screwdriver and the heel of my hand to bump it. I have enough special tools.

[/URL]

Reassemble E-brake

I had popped the existing rear pads earlier, there is a wire that holds the outer pad in place and the inside pad has a clip that fits into the hole on the shown in the center of the caliper shown below. I used a "C" clamp to spread the caliper a bit to make getting the caliper back over the rotor easier.

[/URL]

Pull old pads from caliper

[/URL]

Install new pads

That clip is a b###h...

[/URL]

The pad clips were tough to get back on

Bolt the calipers back onto the axles.
Clean up the diff cover surfaces, reapply the Mopar diff sealant and bolt the cover back on. FIll 'er up and rebolt the swaybar to the axle.
Put your wheels back on and get it back on 4 wheels. Thought I'd get my spare into the rotation...

[/URL]

All back together

There you have it. Mine got a test of a 1300 mile vacation trip the day after I completed this. No leaks!!
So, what is meant by this: "One thing - make sure you pull the old bearing race out of the axle tube. These are designed to seat in the axle tube when you seat the axle assembly."
Do I have to replace the old bearing race with new ones? Why do I have to remove them?
Thanks
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post #13 of 30 Old 04-27-2013, 09:17 PM
99WJ539918
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The new bearings will come with the race. Just as it says, make sure the old race is not in the axle housing before you install the axles.
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post #14 of 30 Old 04-27-2013, 11:50 PM Thread Starter
as350b3e
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Ah, of course, I just had a look at my new bearings......
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post #15 of 30 Old 04-28-2013, 12:05 AM
99WJ539918
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No problem, you would've figured it out when the axles wouldn't slide in all the way.
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