Question for the Quadra Drive guys - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 35 Old 06-04-2013, 08:01 PM Thread Starter
AIRBORNE
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Question for the Quadra Drive guys

I have only maybe logged 100 miles with the GC Limited I bought. I noticed the other day when I mashed the gas it threw gravels with the rear wheels. I looked at the tracks in the gravels and it appeared the rear passenger only spun. I was concerned the AWD isn't working correctly. So I put in the grass and tried the same thing. Could not get a "burnout" mark with the rear wheel again. I have only driven two AWD vehicles ever. How long does it take for the Quadra Drive to engage. Is there a better way to test it? The main reason I bought this vehicle is to drive in the snow. Any advice would be appreciated.


2000 Grand Cherokee Limited/ Quadra Drive / 4.0L/ OME HD springs, Bilsteins, JKS trackbar, 255/75/17 BFG M/T with JK Moabs
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post #2 of 35 Old 06-04-2013, 08:14 PM
lazyWJ
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I've never mashed the gas in my jeep. Is it fun? Mine costs me enough already, I don't want to antagonize it. There is a small delay in the transfer case reaction, but not much. The standard advice seems to be to replace the tcase fluid to make sure the type and quantity is correct. If you can get into some mud it should be easier to tell if it's working properly.

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post #3 of 35 Old 06-04-2013, 08:40 PM
narnwv
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Is it actually Quadra-Drive, or Quadra-Tech II ? If the latter, only one wheel per axle will spin, but once the rear spun enough, the front should engage.

There are plenty of Jeep guys in Morgantown if you want any assistance. You can find most of them on www.jeepinwv.com

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post #4 of 35 Old 06-04-2013, 10:49 PM
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I loved my QD in the snow but it worked flawlessly. I tested it by putting it on a lift and the rear wheels spun for about a 1 second before front kicked in. Like lazy said change your fluid and cross fingers.
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post #5 of 35 Old 06-05-2013, 04:31 AM Thread Starter
AIRBORNE
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It's a Quadra Drive. Like I said, in the grass it felt like the front wheels pulled too and could not see where the rear spun out, but in the gravels it didn't look like the front wheels spun.
My Jeep didn't come with owners manual. Where's the guide for what type of fluid to put back into it?

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post #6 of 35 Old 06-05-2013, 07:56 AM
MuddyWJ
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Dealer only NV247 fluid!
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post #7 of 35 Old 06-05-2013, 08:29 AM
javis4x4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MuddyWJ
Dealer only NV247 fluid!
And friction additive too.
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post #8 of 35 Old 06-05-2013, 08:35 AM
USFORCES
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Quote:
Originally Posted by javis4x4 View Post
And friction additive too.
Friction additive? Only place you use friction additive is in the rear axle.

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post #9 of 35 Old 06-05-2013, 08:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by USFORCES View Post
Friction additive? Only place you use friction additive is in the rear axle.
Actually, both front and rear axles. But definitely NOT the transfer case.

~James
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post #10 of 35 Old 06-05-2013, 08:54 AM
javis4x4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ezflip

Actually, both front and rear axles. But definitely NOT the transfer case.
Why not the TC ? if both axles and TC have the clutches that detect slippage and that's how the system transfers power.
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post #11 of 35 Old 06-05-2013, 09:53 AM
alfaitalia
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Because you don't ....that why! Axles only unless you want to Donald Duck your transfer case!

Nowhere if the FSM does it say to put FM in the tc.

If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got yourself an electrical problem!
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post #12 of 35 Old 06-05-2013, 10:07 AM
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To the OP; it's a good idea to change the diff and transfer case fluids anyway if you don't know the history of the vehicle, and if you indeed have QuadraDrive and not QuadraTrac, you should be getting pretty good power transfer from side to side--at least in the back. It's possible that the previous owner added too much friction modifier to completely quiet down the moaning you sometimes get on tight, cold turns, but it impedes the function of the differentials. Change out your diff fluid front and rear with synthetic 75w140 and add FM only until the moaning and chattering is tolerable for you (the factory recommendations will eliminate moan and chatter under all conditions once the diffs are warmed up, and allow a bit of moan when they're still cold on full-lock turns). The less you add, in theory, the better the diffs will lock when you ask them to. Change the transfer case with the dealer fluid if for no other reason than preventative maintenance. It's advised to be changed a whole lot more than your average used car owner would change it (every 30k miles).
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post #13 of 35 Old 06-05-2013, 10:16 AM
Zimboo22
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I thought you only put Limited Slip in the front, am I wrong on that one?
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post #14 of 35 Old 06-05-2013, 10:23 AM
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If you have varilock differentials front and rear, you need to add FM front and rear. The factory spec is 2.5 fl oz front, and 4.0 fl oz rear of Mopar Friction Modifier. I use ONLY MOPAR friction modifier in my diffs, and MOPAR ONLY t-case fluid in the 247 and have good results at 135K on the clock, running 35 inch tires for over half of those miles.

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post #15 of 35 Old 06-05-2013, 10:37 AM
javis4x4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 85IrocZ-28
If you have varilock differentials front and rear, you need to add FM front and rear. The factory spec is 2.5 fl oz front, and 4.0 fl oz rear of Mopar Friction Modifier. I use ONLY MOPAR friction modifier in my diffs, and MOPAR ONLY t-case fluid in the 247 and have good results at 135K on the clock, running 35 inch tires for over half of those miles.
How do your verilocks work with 35 inch tires, I had read that the biggest tire to run with verilocks is a 31in and 32in @ the biggest ?
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