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Unread 09-17-2011, 12:43 PM   #1
dbollier123
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is it possible to lift my grand cherokee?

i been told by many people i cant lift my jeep? idk y thats the reason i bought it. what can i do if i want to lift it. any kits or parts that u reccomend?thanks

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Unread 09-17-2011, 12:44 PM   #2
SteelBlue_WJ
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Yes you can...
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Unread 09-17-2011, 12:49 PM   #3
roach68
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There are many lifted Grands on this forum mine included. You can not do a body lift due to the unibody construction. Lifts are not cheap unless you just want to do 2" budget boost spacers. Check out Iron Rock Offroad and Zone to name a few. How much of a lift are you wanting?
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Unread 09-17-2011, 12:56 PM   #4
dbollier123
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ur jeep looks exactly what i been looking to do!!im willing to spend a lot . ive seen the boosters too but i actually want a lift. im really eager to do it. i have a completly stoch 02 grand cherokee laredo. im down to do like a 3 in lift around there
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Unread 09-17-2011, 01:03 PM   #5
SteelBlue_WJ
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all I have suspension wise is a KOR true 2.5" BB, Up Country springs, Iron Rock Offroad adjustable control arms and shocks for the lift height. There was trimming but it was minimal because I trimmed smart and in places most people dont think of trimming first before hacking up bumpers. That and I have factory backspaced (or close to) wheels that require less trimming then ones that hang out more... putting thought into things before doing it helps. I wanted it to look functional but not over the top, it turned out extremely well and I'm very happy with it and how it rides and wheels too.

this is the pic i was trying to put on for the second pic but i failed
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Unread 09-17-2011, 01:13 PM   #6
dbollier123
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im looing on iron rock off road and i see that there is a 3 in lift kit for 500. then below i see long arm upgrades. is that to make a wider wheel base? also u said u did a suspension lift is that similar to this?and dont u get "death wobble"?
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Unread 09-17-2011, 01:21 PM   #7
SteelBlue_WJ
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long arms move the lower control arm mounts closer to the B-pillar, some kits you need to cut off the old LCA mount to accommodate the no location of the arms so its irreversible. I this that is not the case with IRO kit. It should make the ride quality better but i wouldnt do it for 3 inches of lift, infact i wouldnt unless it was 4.5 or higher. My lift is a short arm lift but i went with adjustable control arms so it would align the suspension and drivetrain properly. Most of the lift in mine is a BB or a budget boost, it is a spacer between the spring and the unibody, the other inch i have is from the UC springs I have. I love and trust Iron Rock Offroad, but I would pony up a few extra to get a kit with either adjustable control arms or ones that are designed for that size lift

Edit: just to add on long arms, ones like claytons have been know to do not so nice things to vehicle integrity.... the mounts didnt have proper reinforcements and crack in unibodies occured in some of them. not worth it to me. with 3-3.5 or higher you might be able to clear 32 inch tires with some minimal trimming depending on wheel backspacing and tire width
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Unread 09-17-2011, 01:35 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteelBlue_WJ View Post
...Edit: just to add on long arms, ones like claytons have been know to do not so nice things to vehicle integrity.... the mounts didnt have proper reinforcements and crack in unibodies occured in some of them. not worth it to me. with 3-3.5 or higher you might be able to clear 32 inch tires with some minimal trimming depending on wheel backspacing and tire width
You've got to be kidding. If anything, Clayton's long arm kit design greatly increases integrity and strength by creating a complete subframe.
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Unread 09-17-2011, 01:42 PM   #9
dbollier123
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oh ok well, just to sum it up what do u recommend i do and all the parts i need to buy. im sorry with all the questions but im learning.i know tires and wheels but if i get a lift how do i know it comes with everything i need?
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Unread 09-17-2011, 01:46 PM   #10
WiCkeDuDe
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Crap all this time I had mine lifted and they say you cant. I better take off my lift kit right away...
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Unread 09-17-2011, 01:49 PM   #11
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Unread 09-17-2011, 02:40 PM   #12
SteelBlue_WJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skain8 View Post
You've got to be kidding. If anything, Clayton's long arm kit design greatly increases integrity and strength by creating a complete subframe.
IIRC they didnt always include the subframe/rail sleeves.. a few unibodied jeeps were damaged before that was there and again IIRC one of those was a member on here with a green ZJ (although I think his was a RK long arm )... You could know this as you have been on here as long as i have. where I left the debate back in 2006 there was even debate if that unibodied jeeps could even handle long arms long term or heavy wheeling. While alot of engineering changes have happened since then the fact that not only does my Jeep hit the trail and it carries my daughter on a daily basis, so i would rather not over modify a vehicle because it tends to lead to failure and that a long arm for 3-3.5 inches of lift is a f-in waste.
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"For all sad words of tongue and pen, the saddest are these, 'It might have been.' "
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Unread 09-17-2011, 03:34 PM   #13
roach68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbollier123 View Post
oh ok well, just to sum it up what do u recommend i do and all the parts i need to buy. im sorry with all the questions but im learning.i know tires and wheels but if i get a lift how do i know it comes with everything i need?
I bought the 3" kit from IRO with the adjustable track bar upgrade and had them delete the shock option. I bought my shocks a little later from a member on here named Kolak, I went with the Bilsteins 5100's in the front and 5125's for the rear, well worth the extra money. It rides better than it did before i did any of the lift. I also replaced all of the coil spring isolators(8) while I was at it(also purchased from Kolak) Replaced all 4 tie-rod ends too since I had a bad one. It's all been on for about 150 miles and I havent had any death wobble yet. My front driveshaft did start making a noise right away so that is another expense to consider depending on what driveshaft you have stock. Mine is a U-Joint on the transfer case and a CV joint on the diff. side. I'd look to spend a minimum of $1000.00 to do it right, thats if you have nothing go wrong at all. If you have any bad ball joints, tie-rod ends, wheel bearings or control arm bushings you'll be greatly increasing your chances of death wobble. As for the long arm vs short arm debate is there even any one out there that makes long arms for a 3" lift? IRO kit is 4" or more.
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Unread 09-17-2011, 03:40 PM   #14
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Just finished my 3 inch Iron rock lift. In my opinion the best way to go for a decent lift for mild to medium offroading is this: Go with the 3 inch lift from Iron rock offroad and get the adjustable track bar and bilstein shocks. Also plan on getting new spring isolators and I got longer front swaybar links. I added new front control arms lower fixed and upper adjustable. For tires I went with 255/70R17 falken rocky mountain at on 17 inch rubicon wheels from a 2007 wrangler. Be prepared for spending some more on replacing some worn parts. Although this setup rides great I now have death wobble so any worn or play in the steering linkage needs to be fixed along with a good alignment. If you have a cv style front driveshaft plan on replacing it for a ujoint style shaft. Also upgrade the stock rear swaybar to a thicker one like the addco bar for better stability. I probably have close to 2 grand invested in my lift and tires plus replacing worn parts so I would say for a 3 to 4 inch lift be prepared to spend so serious coin for a good riding lift. To me though it was well worth it. I totally love my jeep.
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Unread 09-17-2011, 03:53 PM   #15
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Yup they're right..you can't lift a grand cherokee

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