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Park brake frustration.

585 views 12 replies 5 participants last post by  wjkruse 
#1 ·
The 2000 wj I recently bought needed a new front cable with I have installed,
Easy enough so I thought 😂
I have wound clock spring as much as I can and still no brake 😬
Is there something I'm doing wrong?


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#9 ·
I recently learned this the hard way. My old cable snapped, so I thought all that I had to do was replace it. I wound the clock spring one full turn, hooked up the cable, and it didn't grab the brakes enough to hold it even on a level slope.

So I thought maybe I'm supposed to wind the spring two full turns. After much struggling, I managed to do it. When the lever was down, it didn't drag on the brakes at all, but I could only pull up on it two or three clicks at most before it was impossible to pull it any further. I know that didn't seem right, but at least it worked since it the parking brake now worked. So I finished up and ran with it like that for a few months. Shortly thereafter the new cable snapped, no doubt because it was WAY too tight.

Apparently, replacing the parking brake cable requires manual adjustment at the wheels as part of the procedure. I wish I'd know that before so I could have just planned for doing the rear brakes at the same time.
 
#11 ·
Whenever replacing the rear pads you might as well replace the ebrake shoes, especially since good name brand shoes are only $20 for both sides.

It also helps when replacing the ebrake shoes to sand any rust off the backing plate pads the shoe metal rides on and put a little lithium grease on them. I've seen these rusted little pads hang up ebrake shoes before where you may only end up with one shoe working.

If you're going to try to adjust your ebrake shoes out some more insert a brake spoon or screwdriver tip through the rear access hole at the bottom and rotate the star wheel up. Should be the same for both sides and you just want the shoes so they're hardly touching the inside of the drum at all when spinning the wheel.

It seems like you have an awful lot of slack in that new cable before the eyelet is against the equalizer. But watch the below video and the guy in it does too. Note where he's just pulling on the cable in front of the main spring sideways a little to release the lock until he has it wound in some. He could be pushing on the lever button too but doesn't look like it. Easy method to put correct tension on your new cable and good luck.

Here's the video.
 
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