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Unread 08-15-2014, 02:29 PM   #1
4x4Jeep
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oil pan leak repair

i have a slow leak from the oil pan on the 4.0L. i would think it just needs a new gasket...remove the pan, replace gasket, sounds easy enough, but why was i quoted $300+ to fix it by a shop? is there more to it?

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Unread 08-15-2014, 03:16 PM   #2
Vaporhead
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Not much too it man. Might as well knock out your rear main seal while you got the cover off, if that's leaking too....
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Unread 08-15-2014, 03:36 PM   #3
4x4Jeep
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shouldn't be, rear main seal was replaced a few years ago
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Unread 08-15-2014, 04:52 PM   #4
rdkendrick
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vaporhead View Post
Not much too it man. Might as well knock out your rear main seal while you got the cover off, if that's leaking too....
Is there a write up for replacing the rear main seal? You make it sound easy as replacing the oil pan gasket. I DID do a search, but all I could find was someone else asking if there was a write up. Their answer was for him to take it to a shop.

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Unread 08-15-2014, 04:54 PM   #5
taylor797
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I just did my oil pan gasket on my 04 WJ 4.0 and it was not bad at all. I removed the starter so I could get the oil pan off and I was able to leave the exhaust on. I did mine in my driveway with the Fel Pro gasket from Amazon
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Unread 08-15-2014, 07:35 PM   #6
Vaporhead
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdkendrick View Post
Is there a write up for replacing the rear main seal? You make it sound easy as replacing the oil pan gasket. I DID do a search, but all I could find was someone else asking if there was a write up. Their answer was for him to take it to a shop.

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I think there are a few write-ups for the rear main seal. You can even search youtube for "Jeep rear main seal" and get a few video's. It's not that hard at all.
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Unread 08-15-2014, 10:10 PM   #7
losttech
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Just for giggles did you check the bolts my tranny pan was leaking little and it was just loose bolts tightened up and all fixed.
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Unread 08-16-2014, 01:05 PM   #8
4x4Jeep
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no i haven't^^
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Unread 08-16-2014, 03:33 PM   #9
Cirruslydakota
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This is a super easy job made even easier if you have a 2"+ lift. The plan slides right out towards the back and easily clears the pickup tube.
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Unread 08-18-2014, 10:03 AM   #10
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From the 2001 WJ 4.0 L Factory Service Manual (FSM):

2001 WJ 4.0L crankshaft rear main bearing oil seal

REMOVAL

The crankshaft rear main bearing oil seal consists of two half pieces of viton with a single lip that effectively seals the rear of the crankshaft. Replace the upper and lower seal halves as a unit to ensure leak-free operation.
1.Remove transmission inspection cover.
2.Remove oil pan.
3.Remove main bearing cap brace.
4.Remove rear main bearing cap (No.7).
5.Push upper seal out of the groove. Ensure that the crankshaft and seal groove are not damaged.
6.Remove lower half of the seal from the bearing cap.

INSTALLATION

The crankshaft rear main bearing oil seal consists of two half pieces of viton with a single lip that effectively seals the rear of the crankshaft. Replace the upper and lower seal halves as a unit to ensure leak-free operation.
1.Wipe the seal surface area of the crankshaft until it is clean.
2.Apply a thin coat of engine oil.
3. Coat lip of the seal with engine oil.
4.Carefully position the upper seal into the groove in the cylinder block. The lip of the seal faces toward the front of the engine.
5.Apply MoparŪ Gasket Maker sealer on both sides of cylinder block as shown in attached picture (.pdf). The dab of sealer should be 3 mm (0.125 in.) in diameter.
6.Apply MoparŪ Gasket Maker on the rear bearing cap (see picture). The bead should be 2.3 mm (0.09 in.) in diameter. DO NOT apply sealer to the lip of the seal.
7.Position the lower seal into the bearing cap recess and seat it firmly. Be sure the seal is flush with the cylinder block pan rail.
8.Coat the outer curved surface of the lower seal with soap and the lip of the seal with engine oil.
9.Install the rear main bearing cap. DO NOT strike the cap more than twice for proper engagement.
10.Tighten all main bearing bolts to 108 N·m (80 ft. lbs.) torque.
11.Install the main bearing cap brace. Tighten nuts to 47 N·m (35 ft. lbs.).
12.Install the oil pan gasket and oil pan.
13.Apply MoparŪ Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant on cylinder block to rear main bearing cap corners and cylinder block to front cover joints (four places) (Oil Pan)
14.Install transmission inspection cover.
File Type: pdf 2001wj4l.pdf (70.3 KB, 20 views)
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Unread 08-18-2014, 10:10 AM   #11
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From the 2001 WJ 4.0L Factory Service Manual (FSM):

2001 WJ ENGINE OIL PAN

REMOVAL
1.Disconnect negative cable from battery.
2.Raise the vehicle.
3.Remove the oil pan drain plug and drain the engine oil.
4.Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the exhaust manifold.
5.Disconnect the exhaust hanger at the catalytic converter and lower the pipe.
6.Remove the starter motor.
7.Remove the engine flywheel and transmission torque converter housing access cover.
8.If equipped with an oil level sensor, disconnect the sensor.
9.Position a jack stand directly under the engine vibration damper.
10. Place a piece of wood (2 x 2) between the jack stand and the engine vibration damper.
11.Remove the engine mount through bolts.
12.Using the jack stand, raise the engine until adequate clearance is obtained to remove the oil pan.
13.Remove transmission oil cooling lines (if equipped) and oxygen sensor wiring supports that are attached to the oil pan studs.
14.Remove the oil pan bolts and studs. Carefully slide the oil pan and gasket to the rear. If equipped with an oil level sensor, take care not to damage the sensor.

INSTALLATION
1.Clean the block and pan gasket surfaces.
2.Fabricate 4 alignment dowels from 1 1/2 x 1/4 inch bolts. Cut the head off the bolts and cut a slot into the top of the dowel. This will allow easier installation and removal with a screwdriver.
3.Install two dowels in the timing case cover. Install the other two dowels in the cylinder block.
4.Apply MoparŪ Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant on cylinder block to rear main bearing cap corners and cylinder block to front cover joints (four places) (Oil Pan Sealer Location).
5.Slide the one-piece gasket over the dowels and onto the block and timing case cover.
6.Position the oil pan over the dowels and onto the gasket. If equipped with an oil level sensor, take care not to damage the sensor.
7.Install the 1/4 inch oil pan bolts. Tighten these bolts to 9.5 N·m (84 in. lbs.) torque. Install the 5/16 inch oil pan bolts (Position of 5/16 inch Oil Pan Bolts). Tighten these bolts to 15 N·m (132 in. lbs.) torque.
8.Remove the dowels. Install the remaining 1/4 inch oil pan bolts. Tighten these bolts to 9.5 N·m (84 in. lbs.) torque.
9. Lower the engine until it is properly located on the engine mounts.
10.Install the through bolts and tighten the nuts.
11.Lower the jack stand and remove the piece of wood.
12.Install the engine flywheel and transmission torque converter housing access cover.
13.Install the engine starter motor.
14.Connect the exhaust pipe to the hanger and to the engine exhaust manifold.
15.Install transmission oil cooling lines (if equipped) and oxygen sensor wiring supports that attach to the oil pan studs.
16.Install the oil pan drain plug (Position of 5/16 inch Oil Pan Bolts). Tighten the plug to 34 N·m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
17.Lower the vehicle.
18.Connect negative cable to battery.
19.Fill the oil pan with engine oil to the specified level.
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE ENGINE IS OPERATING. DO NOT STAND IN A DIRECT LINE WITH THE FAN. DO NOT PUT YOUR HANDS NEAR THE PULLEYS, BELTS OR FAN. DO NOT WEAR LOOSE CLOTHING.
20.Start the engine and inspect for leaks.
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Unread 08-18-2014, 03:56 PM   #12
rdkendrick
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Thank you JEEPCARES, but I have a 4.7l HO. I have a FSM, I guess I can look in there, but you guys usually know the shortcuts, and like VAPORHEAD said, I can check YouTube, too.

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