Oh man! How do I get at that Crankshaft Position Sensor '99 Grand Cherokee 4.0 L - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
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Unread 07-25-2011, 06:28 PM   #16
scarrskey
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1999 WJ 
 
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Location: Cameron Park, California
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I'm going to give it a shot and will post pictures if I'm successful

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Unread 07-25-2011, 09:16 PM   #17
scarrskey
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Here are some pictures of where I've gotten so far. I have to go to a family dinner so I'm calling it a night.

Driver's lower air vent



Vent Removed


Oval shifter holes


You can see the bolt for the Crankshaft Position Sensor right through the forward-most hole.
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Unread 07-26-2011, 05:14 PM   #18
scarrskey
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Although there is a direct line of sight to the sensor there is not enough room to work. I suggest anyone considering to do it themselves uses the thread below and drops the tranny crossmember a few inches. It makes this much more simple. Finished today in about 2 hours. Next time it would probably take about 1.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/...iving-1240040/
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Unread 09-15-2011, 05:23 PM   #19
triplec12
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Has it been determined this suggestion does not work on the 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 4.0L 6 cyl?

I am at the point where I have 2 diamond shape seal plates exactly like the photos. I believe the original write up spoke about a larger opening shaped like an oval.

I am wondering if I bother removing the 2 sealed plates?
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Unread 09-15-2011, 05:38 PM   #20
scarrskey
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From my experience the 2 seals are too small to work through. However the sensor is right on the other side of the ovals. It might help you to open up one of the seals (i believe it to be the one more towards the front of the vehicle) to spot the sensor. I stuck a small flash light through the hole and it gave me enough light to see it from under the vehicle. I think the easiest way to access it will be to lower the transmission crossmember and use a large extension. Good luck!
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Unread 09-16-2011, 01:54 PM   #21
bond-jamesbond
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Hi Guys, I'm the 2003 Cherokee guy who figured out this method of going through the firewall. Yes, it is the upper oval plate and the point is that you can easily remove the sensor mounting BOLT through this hole and perhaps, if the sensor is stuck a bit, pry it up and out with a screwdriver.
The CPS will still have to be removed and replaced from inside the engine compartment. Not too hard to do. Just pull the plastic air box off and set aside and lean in to reach behind engine to (1st) unplug sensor from wiring harness on passenger side - no prob just feel the wires, then (2nd) pull sensor up out of the hole in bellhousing on driver side. You should be able to drop the new sensor back in the hole with a bit of dexterity then replace the mounting bolt through the opening in the firewall you have exposed. just an extension and a socket is all that's necessary.
Sure beats all that trouble of unbolting crossmembers, using multiple extensions with swivels etc., etc.
Oh, and aren't the 1999-2004 Cherokee's all the same WJ body style? Method should work OK on all these years.
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Unread 09-16-2011, 03:44 PM   #22
nickblack
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Dropping the tranny crossmember is the way to go. More than enough room to work that way.
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Unread 09-17-2011, 12:34 PM   #23
bond-jamesbond
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Well, it only takes me 20 minutes to change CPS my way. I can't imagine all that jacking and unbolting could go that fast or clean.
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Unread 09-22-2011, 05:50 PM   #24
Bzwth
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bond-jamesbond View Post
Well, it only takes me 20 minutes to change CPS my way. I can't imagine all that jacking and unbolting could go that fast or clean.
Mr. Bond, your method worked great. The access hole provides line of sight and easy access to the bolt, which I believe is what gives everyone fits. Changing out the senser and bracket, by themselves, is easily done by feel without actually being able to see it. I did it from underneath the jeep without removing anything else. The access hole makes it super easy to remove and reinstall the bolt. Remove the crossmember if you like, but it isn't necessary.
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Unread 09-23-2011, 08:49 PM   #25
bond-jamesbond
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Glad to be of service!
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Unread 05-17-2012, 10:32 PM   #26
SalJM
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I'm about to do it tomorrow, I'll post pictures.
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Unread 05-18-2012, 11:42 AM   #27
jmiro
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also used this method. It was on a 99 4.0. Honestly if it goes again I think I can have this done in less than a half hour.
Only tools needed were
a phillips screw driver for the dash and vent.
10mm wrench and socket for the shifter cover,
1/4inch ratchet
6 inch extention
1/4 swivel
11 mm socket

I used a coat hanger instead of string to fish the wire.
It seemed easier to put the sensor back in place from above rather then through the hole. however I had the air box off. then i used some cualking in the socket to ensure the bolt didnt drop before it started. I wish they would standardize the plugs. That took the most amount of time to figure out how it came apart. Hint push on the latch at the bottom most part right above were it connects.
So now that I have the fan relay, cv joint, power steering pump, water pump, thermostat, exhaust, plugs, and fuel rail done. I just need the wheel bearing hubs, clock spring and a battery.
knock on wood.
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Unread 02-14-2013, 05:49 PM   #28
rulebyforce
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how do i get at that crank position sensor

It may be an old thread..... but it might help me alot. I'm fixing to replace my cps using the through the dash method...... wish me luck. I let you know how it goes and hopefully have some good pics for you also.
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Unread 06-25-2013, 01:38 PM   #29
HarielA4
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I followed the post that bond made. Got the bolt out and the old sensor out. Now im working on getting it back in. Im praying I can put the little bracket back on the way its supposed to go. I tried the method where u drop the tranny cross member but I dont have alot of extensions and swivels. I dont even have a ratchet. Just a 8 inch breaker handle. Wish me luck.

just to clarify I have a 99 JGC Laredo 6cyl 4.0L. I may have to drop the cross member to get the new sensor in. At least I have to tools for that. Sometimes I wish I had thinner arms. damn muscles.
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Unread 06-25-2013, 02:55 PM   #30
HarielA4
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Sensor installed. Had to drop the tranny cross member an inch to get my fat arm and hand in there. The hardest part was getting that little metal bracket back on there. Bolt tightend back up thru the firewall and then tighten all the cross member bolts. Reinstall the airbox assembly and reconnect all the vaccum hoses that I bumped with my fat arms while trying to fit the sensor back in. Runs good after initial start. Will know in a few days if the code clears.
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