Not even enough air flow through vents to blow out a match!!!!! - JeepForum.com
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Unread 08-22-2013, 03:38 PM   #1
xjse
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Angry Not even enough air flow through vents to blow out a match!!!!!

I have a 99 GC Lmtd and just replaced the blend doors with aluminum ones and wired the recirc door up against the "gate" (for lack of the technical term) that you can see from behind the glove box. No matter what the HVAC setting is on i.e. heat, cold, dash vents, floor, defrost, mix, etc. there is hardly enough air flow (cfm) through the vents to blow out a match. I have fixed a vacuum leak under the battery so far and don't see any others. Fan motor seems to be working fine as well.
Any ideas???

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Unread 08-22-2013, 03:57 PM   #2
WJChris
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you did not install correctly, or they need cal. Have you pulled the ACZ codes yet? please report them here if you do.
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Unread 08-22-2013, 04:00 PM   #3
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http://wjjeeps.com/climate.htm

AZC fault codes

Fault codes are two-digit numbers that identify a circuit that is malfunctioning. The Automatic Zone Control (AZC) control module has a system self-diagnostic mode which continuously monitors various parameters during normal system operation. If a system fault is detected, a current and historical fault is recorded. When the current fault is cleared, the historical fault remains until reset (manually or automatically). Both the current and historical fault codes can be accessed through either the front panel, or over the Programmable Communications Interface (PCI) bus using a DRBIII scan tool, and the appropriate diagnostic information.

The two different kinds of fault codes are:

1. Current Fault Codes - Current means the fault is present right now. There are two types of current faults: input faults, and system faults.

2. Historical Fault Codes - Historical or stored means that the fault occurred previously, but is not present right now. A majority of historical fault codes are caused by intermittent wire harness or wire harness connector problems.


AZC self-diagnostic mode:

1. To enter the self-diagnostic mode, depress the a/c and recirc buttons at the same time and hold. Rotate the left temperature control knob clockwise (CW) one detent.

2. If you continue to keep the a/c and recirc buttons depressed, the AZC control module will perform a Segment Test of the Vacuum Fluorescent (VF) display. In the Segment Test you should see all of the display segments illuminate as long as both buttons are held. If a display segment fails to illuminate, the vacuum fluorescent display is faulty and the a/c heater control must be replaced.

3. After viewing the Segment Test, release the A/C and Recirc buttons and the display will clear momentarily. If there are no fault codes, the “00” display value will remain in the VF window. Should there be any codes, each will be displayed for one second in ascending numerical sequence (note: no effort is made to display faults in the order they occurred). The left side set temperature display will be blanked and the right side set temperature display will indicate current and historical codes (8 historical max) presently active.

Once all codes have been displayed, the system will repeat the fault code numbers. This will continue until the left side set temperature control is moved at least one detent position in either direction, by pressing both the A/C and Recirc buttons at the same time, or the ignition is turned off. Record all of the fault codes, then see the Current and Historical Fault Code charts below for the descriptions.


Clearing fault codes

Current faults cannot be electronically cleared. Repair must be made to the system to eliminate the fault causing code. Historical fault codes can be cleared manually, or automatically. To clear a historical fault manually, depress and hold either the A/C or Recirc button for at least three seconds while the display is in the fault code mode of operation. Historical fault codes are cleared automatically when the corresponding current fault code has been cleared, and has remained cleared for 72 ignition cycles. The faults have been cleared when two horizontal bars appear in the Test Selector display.


Calibrating AZC door actuators

Calibrate the door actuators after making any repairs to the AZC system. To calibrate the door actuators proceed as follows:

1. Turn the ignition on.
2. Set the AZC to automatic.
3. Turn the ignition off.
4. Remove the IOD fuse from the Power Distribution Center. Wait several seconds, and then install the IOD fuse.
5. Turn the ignition on. Do not touch any of the AZC controls for at least one minute to allow the calibration function to run to completion.


Every 20 key cycles the AZC head initiates a re-calibration routine which identifies pulse counts required to achieve full door travel. Also during this routine all modes and functions are validated as functional. When the self calibration routine is complete, the control head resets itself to its last settings.

The air conditioning compressor will engage in certain modes to cool and remove moisture from air entering the passenger compartment. The AZC control, when it is not set in the auto mode, always defaults to A/C enabled. The LED illuminates when the control requests A/C. The customer must toggle A/C off by depressing the button every time he turns to manual mode or the A/C is enabled. Additionally, when the vehicle is off for a "calibratable" amount of time, automatic A/C is again enabled and the customer must again force it off by depressing the button.
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Unread 08-22-2013, 06:15 PM   #4
xjse
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I have installed the doors and new actuator motor correctly. That I am sure of. I have not recalibrated yet. (Pardon my ignorance but what is the IOD fuse?)
And would the recalibration have anything to do with lack of flow? It feels like someone stuck a sock in the ducts somewhere along the line. The blower motor winds up and spins at whatever speed the knob is set too. I can change both sides independantly between heat and cool and you can feel the different temps but there is just no air pressure so to speak coming out of the vents. Cant tell if I am actually changing which vents the air is blowing out of. Alsmost like the luvers inside the different ducts aren't moving.
BASICALLY its like all my cold and hot air is just blowing into the engine or outside the car somewhere and the interior is getting robbed.
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Unread 08-22-2013, 06:45 PM   #5
xjse
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Forgot to mention, my cruise control light comes on when I turn it on but can't hold ANY speed or anything. Sounds like a vacuum leak right?
I'll probably do a ghetto smoke test tomorrow where I repaired the leak earlier and see if there are any other leaks in the line.
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Unread 08-22-2013, 08:11 PM   #6
WJChris
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yes, Cruise control is vacuum.

IOD is Ignition Off Draw fuse. Same result by disconnecting the battery for same effect.44Controls electronic door actuator operation.

A simplified control system for operation of the mode, recirculation, and temperature control actuators provides positive positioning without the complexity of feedback from position sensors. The AZC Module knows the number of operating actuator revolutions required for full door travel as well as the number of actuator commutator pulses per revolution. Using these parameters, the AZC Module runs the actuator for the number of commutator pulses that correspond to the desired door position. To maintain accuracy, the system recalibrates itself periodically at known zero and full travel conditions.

Run that CAL asap!
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Unread 08-23-2013, 12:11 PM   #7
xjse
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Reset/Calibrated and the only code being thrown is 20.
Also did the ghetto mans smoke test and noticed NO visible leaks.
Still next to no CFMs through any vents. Not even through defrost.
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Unread 08-23-2013, 12:16 PM   #8
xjse
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Don't really care about the recirc door travel being too large. The A**hole that owned before me wired it in place and I just took it out. I am planning on covering the "gate"/vent thing by the recirc door, with Mastic tape just to seal it off where the door would usually be sealing it off
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Unread 08-23-2013, 01:28 PM   #9
xjse
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SOLVED!!!!! well, almost.
The previous owner had reversed the wires to the blower motor causing it to spin in reverse; hence, next to no air flow. Easy fix. Working for an HVAC company myself, this should have been the first thing to look at.
Nonetheless everything works except for the recirc door, which, who really cares? and the cruise control still does't work.
A battle for tomorrow I suppose.

Thank you WJCHRIS for everything.

How confident are you with walking me through the troubleshooting process for the CC?
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Unread 08-23-2013, 03:18 PM   #10
WJChris
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I would love to help you out, but I dont have my Jeep anymore or my FSM. Without those Im worthless...

Besides, you figured this all on your own!
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