I decided a while back I wanted a jeep so I've been lurking here while I kept my eyes open. 2 weeks ago I ended up buying an 01 grand Cherokee 4.7L 4x4. The motor and tranny seem strong and I haven't found anything majorly wrong with it yet. On the test drive, I did find out that basically EVERY known common failure from the stickies was bad on this jeep but none of it was beyond my abilities so I felt comfortable buying it after I haggled the guy down. One of the rear window regulators was bad so the window wouldn't go up, no heat, and it shook bad when braking. I already fixed the rear window, the blend doors will be done at some point (its 100 degrees right now...that can wait), and today was supposed to be brakes.
I bought rotors and pads for all 4 wheels, and bought akebono calipers for the fronts. I figured the rears would be easiest (HAH), so I jacked the back up and got to work. Got the old pads out, compressed the piston, and attempted to put the new pads in. the inside pad went in fine (the one that clips into the piston), but the outer pad was a no-go. I wish I would have taken pics but i'll try to describe it as best I can. the "hump" on the top of the brake pad was a little too tall and would not fit into the channel on the caliper...so I could only get the pad in about half way on that side. Long story short, I made several trips to autozone and oreillys and tried pads from 4 different companies. NONE of them fit. By this point I had been working for 6 hours in 100 degree heat with nothing accomplished...I was pissed off and those pads were going in one way or the other. I went down to ace and jumped on their bench grinder for a few minutes and shaved about 1/16th of an inch off the 'hump' of the pad and headed home. Perfect fit. Front brakes are tomorrow since I ran out of light today.
Am I the only one who has had this problem? anyone who has had this issue what's the deal? Are stealership brake pads (whatever brand they are) built to different tolerances than the brands at local autoparts stores? Is it possible that my calipers are both out of spec? I'd like to avoid the frustration next time the pads need replacing.
it had nothing to do with the piston, the pad on the opposite side of the piston was the one that would not go in all the way (went about half way and stopped on a channel/lip. Here are some pics I snapped today. the piston didn't want to go in all the way so I couldn't remove the pad and frankly I didn't feel like messing with it too much. the rotor was also a non issue, because I couldn't get the pad to fully seat BEFORE attempting to put the caliper on the rotor. BOTH rear sides had the same problem. the old pad, fit all the way in just fine.
the red arrows are pointing to the 'hump' and the green arrows are pointing to the lip where the pads need to get past to be fully seated. the old pads had no problem getting past this raised lip. you can see the shiny metal area on the outside edge of the 'hump' where I went to work with the grinder. Hope the pics do a better job of explaining than I can.
how in the world are you reassembling these brakes? looks like you assembled the caliper braket and caliper and pads with spring all in one shot and are trying to attach it to the axle. If thats how you are doing it good luck. I just did mine and had no problem. The way I do it is put the bracket on the axle first, install the inboard pad to the caliper, drop the outboard pad into the bracket. install the caliper to the bracket and bolt in place, the install the spring, done.
The way I do it is put the bracket on the axle first, install the inboard pad to the caliper, drop the outboard pad into the bracket. install the caliper to the bracket and bolt in place, then install the spring, done.
That spring acts as an anti rattle clip, keeping a light pressure on the pad to minimize movement when the brakes are not being used. If you're trying to get your pad to move past that lip in the caliper during reassembly then you're doing it wrong.
Regardless, glad you got it put back together. In the future if you get any weird clunks or noises coming from the back end of the vehicle that's the first thing I would check.
__________________ His: '00 WJ 4.7 Limited- Zone 4" SA lift, JKS BPE's, 242HD Swap, 18" JK Sahara 'Phone Dial' wheels, 255/70/18 Bridgestone Dueler A/T's
Hers: '03 WJ 4.7 Laredo- IRO 3", 245/75/16 Duratracs, Bilstein Shocks, JKS TB w/KOR Bushings, Rusty's A-Arm Spacer, CORE4x4 Adjustable Front Control Arms, Dynomax Exhaust, RB1 Nav -Coming Soon- Overland Rock Rails