Need Pinion Bearing Replacement Proceedure for 2000 Grand Cherokee

zBeeble · 03-30-2011, 01:47 PM

So... I bought a 2000 Grand Cherokee with 160k KM on it (100k miles) for $2500 Cdn. It's a Laredo with most of the Limited options (really comfy seats), the small v8, quadratrack and the towing package.

The only flaws are the oil pan needing replacement and the front pinion bearing needing replacement.

I got the Haynes manual yesterday and it covers the oil pan replacement fine enough. I've ordered the pan and the gasket set. I can handle that easily.

Despite what some have said in their posts, however, the Haynes manual does not cover replacing the front pinion bearing (or anything to do with the differential). The bearing makes noise on deceleration --- meaning that it's the front pinion, not the rear pinion.

I have repair experience and time and nothing that I've read so far has specifically scared me from trying --- but finding a detailed procedure has so far stumped me. I've read the excellent d60 article that was referenced by another post here --- it really gives great background. I've also read posts saying that just replacing the bearings often doesn't require the full-on adjustment... just carefully matching the turning torque of the pinion gear to what it used to be.

I will also put forward that if someone helps me with the repair, I will document with at least pictures what happened ... and if I can, I may post some video (likely on my blog until they let me post stuff like that here).

Anyways... I'd love a few pages out of a shop manual _or_ a link to where I can buy the full-on shop manual (if it isn't crazy expensive).

Twospeed · 03-30-2011, 01:51 PM

Google Jeep Factory Service Manual Download. I found and downloaded my information there.

danb303 · 03-30-2011, 02:02 PM

I can't tell you the step by step process but here is a summary of what has to be done. Might help you decide whether you want to try it or not.

You'll have to pull both axles, (which means wheels, tires, calipers, rotors etc.)

Then pull the ring gear carrier. You'll have to be able to put that back in correctly and some times they are very tight. Keep up with the shims if it has any on the outside of the bearing races
Then remove the pinion gear and knock out the races.
You then have to remove the old bearing (cut it off, beat it off, or press it off)
Keep up with the shims when you take the bearings off (if it has them) both mine had shims rather than a crush sleeve. Put them back just like they came off.
After that you will need a bearing race knocker to install the 2 races.
And to press on the new bearings.
You will need a dial type inch lbs torque wrench to check the preload.
then put it all back together

I'm sure someone else will help out also

zBeeble · 03-30-2011, 02:23 PM

I suppose one question I have is about pressing the bearings. With wheel bearings (I've done 1 front and one rear on a grand cherokee, a front on a taurus, and a front on a subaru) that need pressing, I've taken the knuckle to the machine shop and had them do it (relatively cheap at the local car quest). Is that something I might do with the whole pumpkin (ie: disassemble it and take it in all cleaned up to get the bearing pressed) ... or should this be easy enough in my own shop.

As for tools ... yes... I was planning to buy a dial torque wrench. New tools for the shop are always welcome.

Twospeed · 03-30-2011, 02:39 PM

The bearing is on the pinion. You can just pull the pinion out and take it to the shop to have the old bearing pressed off and the new one pressed on if you don't have a press. I used changing my pinion bearings and rear axle bearings as an excuse to welcome a shop press to my tool collection.

**WiCkeDuDe** · 03-30-2011, 03:02 PM

No need to take the pumpkin out. You have to remove the carrier and pound out the pinion. The bearing is then pressed on the pinion in the press.

zBeeble · 03-30-2011, 05:01 PM

That is good news. I'm thinking of a shop press soon, but given what I do, the $2500 6 foot lift at princess auto is very attractive as my next big purchase.

I have found a shop manual online --- it seems like something this site should collect ... at least for the older jeeps.

Twospeed · 03-30-2011, 08:20 PM

If your bearings are as bad as mine were, there won't be a lot of beating involved. I pulled the carrier, took the nut off the yoke, pulled the yoke off and the pinion fell out of the case along with several rollers from the bearings.

**narnwv** · 03-30-2011, 10:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zBeeble

That is good news. I'm thinking of a shop press soon, but given what I do, the $2500 6 foot lift at princess auto is very attractive as my next big purchase.

I have found a shop manual online --- it seems like something this site should collect ... at least for the older jeeps.

Holy crap! I got a 6' tall 12 TON shop press at Harbor Freight for less than $80.

The site doesn't collect the FSMs because hosting them, or pointing to their download location is a violation of copyright law.

zBeeble · 03-30-2011, 10:23 PM

So... I've done more reading. Good stuff, all. I'm starting to look at a few more specific questions...

1) It looks like a "spreader" is recommended to take out the carrier. What alternate things can I work with here? Is this something that I might borrow from Partsource?

2) The "bearing race knocker" mentioned above ... again where? Looks like one of the videos used a socket?

zBeeble · 03-30-2011, 10:45 PM

Ok. New question. I have figured out that my Jeep is QuadraDrive ... which means different gubbins in the differential if I read it right. Does this change anything?

danb303 · 03-31-2011, 06:30 AM

Most parts stores have the race knockers in their loan a tool program.

Twospeed · 03-31-2011, 08:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zBeeble

So... I've done more reading. Good stuff, all. I'm starting to look at a few more specific questions...

1) It looks like a "spreader" is recommended to take out the carrier. What alternate things can I work with here? Is this something that I might borrow from Partsource?

2) The "bearing race knocker" mentioned above ... again where? Looks like one of the videos used a socket?

1. The spreader isn't required. Take a look at this link. If I were you I would replace the axle seals while I had everything apart.

http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/d30seals/seal-1.htm

2. As mentioned above, most parts store have the knockers in their loan a tool program. You can also get them at a pretty reasonable price from Harbor Freight both online and in their stores and online at several other places. Try to get a long handle as driving the race inside the pumpkin is a little tricky when you have a short handle. Ask me how I know.

As for the Quadra Drive, the only difference is that the carrier has a pickup tube on the right side that has to be pointed down when you replace the carrier in the pumpkin. It's built in to a plenum on that side. The plenum is pretty easy to bend if you dont know about it. Once you have the cover off of the diff, you'll see what I'm talking about.

zBeeble · 03-31-2011, 07:45 PM

I took the jeep for a safety inspection today. In addition to the oil pan and the pinion bearing, he noted that the left front and left rear axle seals were blown and that the left front ball joint was seized (which will apparently cause the axle seal to be blown again if not repaired, he said).

The relatively good news is that the safety only revealed a couple of minor additional problems (two axle seals --- one of which I would have already replaced by your recommendation) and the ball joint. I am even more happy with my purchase than I was before.

So... let's (if you don't mind) go over a parts list that I need to order:

For the oil pan, I need...

A new oil pan
an oil pan gasket set
oil (5 quart?)
probably a filter.

For the front Diff repair, I need:

pinion bearing(s) --- both inner and outer?
axle seals (2)
Do I replace the carrier bearings?
front left ball joint.

Then, additionally I need the rear left axle seal. Do I need to check the fluid level in the rear diff, then?

**narnwv** · 03-31-2011, 07:59 PM

6 quarts of oil, and yes a new filter. NOT FRAM

Since you have to remove the carrier to get to the axle seals, you might as well replace the bearings while you're in there.

Also, since you have to pull it all out to replace the rear left axle seal, you might as well replace both seals and carrier bearings there too.

For both diffs, you'll need new fluid, as it'll all be drained out when you remove the diff covers for the seal replacement.