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Unread 06-28-2011, 05:32 PM   #1
djoy
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mobil 1 for high mileage suv

Surfin the mobil 1 site and using there what type of oil is recommended i got the the 0w-30 for fuel savings. is it a good idea for a car with 200,000 miles? I have been running different syns and dynos. 99WJ I6. nobody really touched on this topic since search found no results.

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Unread 06-28-2011, 05:42 PM   #2
the88thpianoman
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Get that 0w-30 out of there. Run 10w-30 Mobil 1 high mileage, 10w-40 if the Jeep has any trouble maintaining proper oil pressure.

Edit: it's also a wise idea to stick with synthetic once you switch to it. Switching back and forth allows more synthetic and conventional to mix which results in serious gunk build up in the engine.
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Unread 06-28-2011, 06:33 PM   #3
ExoticFish
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I have this is my WJ now but am planning on switching to Mobil1 Extended Performance and seeing how that goes. Don't use 0w-30 though ! 10w-30 at minimum.
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Unread 06-28-2011, 06:34 PM   #4
xJoshxx
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no oil is going to make you save fuel taking the ankle weights of your foot will.

anyway i run 10w40 all year.
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Unread 06-28-2011, 07:01 PM   #5
billzcat1
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I tried the 0W-30 in one of my mom's old cars. No reportable improvement in fuel mileage with it, and valvetrain noise increased a bit. The stuff pours like water. The 10W-30 HM is a VERY robust oil, starting to gain notoriety in the Euro community (where German Castrol reins supreme). The Mobil 1 Extended Performance line has an almost identical additive package with a higher TBN, good if you plan on actually going for an extended drain. If you plan on changing it in less than 7500 miles though, not the right oil, take the High Mileage, it's equally good and cheaper.

I usually get my oil analyzed to determine if anything unusual goes on inside the engine, if wear is out of line, oil is contaminated with coolant, etc. It's a $25 service, and twice a year (about my oil change frequency) is not too much to worry about the cost. With a 6000 mile service interval, the M1 High Mileage comes out with extremely low wear on my 4.7. On my 4.0, higher wear than the 4.7 for sure, but that was a motor with 200k, 160k of which I didn't own it. And still, the wear numbers were in line with other 4.0s. It quieted down the 4.0L tractor motor pretty well to boot.

Now here's the WHY behind getting rid of the 0W-30. Oil needs pressure and it needs to flow. The pressure helps maintain clearance between bearings and the crank and helps your hydraulic lifters stay pressurized. The 0W-30 will not lack any flow (it flows very easily) but with a worn motor, you need to thicken the oil a little from the manufacturer's recommendation due to increased clearance between all your moving parts. The HM line does that very nicely without changing the SAE oil weight - it is essentially "halfway" between a 10W30 and a 10W40. The nice thing is that it also flows down to -54ºC, a pour point lower than most conventional oils. So, you still get good flow when cold (when most wear occurs) and good oil pressure when hot.
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Unread 06-28-2011, 07:20 PM   #6
tckenney
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What do you thinks best on 01 4.0 with 117k?
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Unread 06-28-2011, 07:25 PM   #7
billzcat1
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Same stuff. M1 High Mileage 10W-30. The Walmart 5 qt jug is $23, add a quart for $6.52 and taxes... right about $30 for the oil. Pretty darn decent for a high-zinc full synthetic. There may be slightly better oils out there, but its really in the 95th percentile for quality AND value.
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Unread 06-28-2011, 07:29 PM   #8
tckenney
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Why 10 not 5?
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Unread 06-28-2011, 07:29 PM   #9
metalhead
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Just stick with whats recommended in the owners manual or on the oil fill cap. I run 5w-30 in my 4.7 quaker state high mileage. Have 120,799 on the clock. For high mileage engines its better to run regular oil unless the motor has always had synthetic oil.
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Unread 06-28-2011, 07:31 PM   #10
billzcat1
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The 4.0L is recommended to 10W-30, and thinner oils in the 4.0 tend to increase noise from the valvetrain.
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Unread 06-28-2011, 08:43 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the88thpianoman View Post

Edit: it's also a wise idea to stick with synthetic once you switch to it. Switching back and forth allows more synthetic and conventional to mix which results in serious gunk build up in the engine.
www.bobistheoilguy.com
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Unread 06-28-2011, 09:41 PM   #12
the88thpianoman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joker6 View Post
I know, but I've also seen someone seize an engine because all their oil turned into a waxy substance after mixing one quart of synthetic with four quarts of conventional for a few oil changes.
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Unread 06-28-2011, 09:51 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billzcat1 View Post
Same stuff. M1 High Mileage 10W-30. The Walmart 5 qt jug is $23, add a quart for $6.52 and taxes... right about $30 for the oil. Pretty darn decent for a high-zinc full synthetic. There may be slightly better oils out there, but its really in the 95th percentile for quality AND value.
Just did a change with a mopar filter and M1 High Mileage 10W-30 full synthetic!

Great stuff! been running it since the first oil change 92000 miles ago
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Unread 06-28-2011, 09:52 PM   #14
99WJCHRIS
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I use valvoline High Milage 10w-30. Dont know why just kinda been with that brand for a while. Is mobile 1 better or is it all pretty much the same. I go with Valvoline because its more of a mid to high range in price and I figure its better than the cheap stuff. Plus the bottles match my Jeep

Oh yeah. i got 192,xxx on mine. 4.0L
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Unread 06-28-2011, 10:23 PM   #15
joker6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the88thpianoman View Post
I know, but I've also seen someone seize an engine because all their oil turned into a waxy substance after mixing one quart of synthetic with four quarts of conventional for a few oil changes.
That's impossible, what do you think synthetic blend oils are? Usually 30% syn, 70% dino. That engine sludged from neglect not from one quart of synthetic. And that doesn't happen over night. I've ran dino then synthetic then dino oil over and over and I've had the cam covers off and I've changed the oil pain, it was clean as a bell.

Anyways, back on topic. Mobil 1 0w30 is a great oil. You really can't beat today's SN oils. I run synthetic in my 175k 4.7 with no leaks or consumption.
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