I'm working on asphalt and would like to avoid getting fluid all over the place. Is it possible to pump enough fluid out through the dipstick tube to ensure a mess free experience?
I plan on putting down some cardboard, but that's only good for small drips at best.
I just did a trans service on my ZJ. i bought a transmission drain plug kit from my local parts store which requires a 1/2" hole to be drilled into the pan in order to install it. When draining the pan before installing the plug kit, I drilled a smaller hole to allow the old fluid to drain neatly. Then enlarged the hole after removing the pan from the trans to install the plug kit. Worked very well and was the neatest drain/ refill I ever did.
When I drop the trans pan (sometimes literally!), I always put down some painter's plastic. In a pinch, you can always cut open a large garbage bag, or use an old shower curtain. Cheap insurance.
I'm thinking about using a cheap fluid transfer pump from Harbor Freight to pull out as much ATF from the pan through the dipstick before dropping the pan. Should make for less dripping out.
Yes, it is a good idea to siphon as much fluid as possible through the dipstick tube before cracking the seal at the pan. I didn't do this the first time I dropped the pan on mine, and I ended up with fluid all over the driveway. You can always just loosen the pan bolts but leave them in place, and try to crack the seal at just one corner; however, if the seal ends up coming free faster than expected you will get fluid coming out a lot faster than you want it to.
Adding a drain plug would be a good solution to this; I haven't put one in mine because I didn't want the possibility of it leaking at some point though.
Also, the siphon pump through the dipstick tube works; however, they are incredibly slow and you have a lot of fluid to pump out. So allow yourself plenty of time for that process.
Comes with three semi-rigid tubes which connect together - the smallest will go down the transmission dipstick tube and with some polythene tuning as an extension will reach the bottom of the pan. I put some curtain wire in the polythene tube to stop it collapsing under vacuum. Handy if you don't want to change the filters. Works a treat especially if the oil is warm and you don't need to stand over it.
If if were to do it again I would either invest in an electric pump (if I actually had money) or do the drill and then insert a drain plug. It was an absolute disaster for me when I dropped the pan. I even followed the service manual directions but the pan unexpectedly dropped and fluid was everywhere.
I have been wanting to get a PML pan there really nice carries an extra quart or two and has cooling fins and a drain makes changing fluid much easier.
Just cant seem to bring myself to spend the 250$ they want for one. http://www.yourcovers.com/transpan_9862.php
Spend the $22 for the Dorman OE capacity replacement pan, it's a well built pan for the cost and comes with a drain plug installed. I just got one for each of my WJs having done the trans service on 'em a couple weeks back. Chances are your factory pan is in fairly rough shape anyway, both of mine were pretty rusted.
Just poke a hole in the current pan, let it drain and off you go. While the drain plug on the Dorman pan is magnetic, I swapped over the magnet from the OE pan as well.
I used to have a unit for removing oil or tx fluid through the dipstick tube. It was a closed can with a long, thin tube attached, and it had a hand vacuum pump. It was slow but not intolerably so and worked okay. Since it was an all-in-one unit, it did not require transferring the oil; you could just carry the can to the recycle and dump it. It was similar to this one:
What engine and transmission, because I have the exact oil drain can and the tube will not fit to the pan on at 4.7L HO with 45RFE tranny. Goes about 3/4 of the way and stops, cant push it past that spot
Regarding the OP's question, I'd suggest going to Home Depot or Lowe's and getting one of the small, mortar mixing pans (plastic) they have back in the cement section. Think of it as a big cat box, large enough to catch all of the oil and ensuing drips. I've been using one for years to service my Dodge Cummins and my driveway is none the worse for wear! Just a thought. Oh, and get yourself a pan with a plug...stop the insanity! :grin2:
It may just be a mistake on that Dorman site they only show the 45RFE for the WJ's and not the 545RFE which should be the same pan wise.
Believe some of those fast lube places may have the method of just sucking the ATF out of the drain tube and installing new.
I also have one of those large square plastic mortor mixing pans from Home Depot and they're cheap while working great! Also good for roof leaks you're trying like heck to hunt down!
I just put the Dorman 265-817 Pan on yesterday. Fits great,
I got mine from Advance Auto, local store had it in stock for $36.
Mine did not come with a gasket or a magnet but I just used the magnet from the stock pan and the gasket was in the Wix filter kit.
Advance sells the CarQuest brand of ATF+4, since they're all the same might as well save some $. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...65-817/10647048-P?searchTerm=transmission+pan
Some shops may change the fluid the same way you would do it. Others use a machine to flush all the old fluid and replace it with all new fluid. By draining the pan, you really only may get half of the fluid out. The upside of draining though, is that you can change both filters. The machine flushing does not open the pan and therefore can not change the filters.
You can also drain and flush it yourself, or just flush it by disconnecting one of the radiator tubes, starting the engine, and letting the transmission pump itself dry (making sure to shut the engine off immediately when the flow stops). One could even be adding fresh fluid during this process and stop the engine when you see clean fluid begin to come out of the radiator tube. There are Youtube videos of people doing this. Personally, I would just drain it, change the filters, and refill it.
That is the right Dorman pan. You can call them to confirm it if you want. As I understand it, the 45 and the 545 are the same transmission with different programming that changes it from 4 to 5 speed. The 4x4 pan though is deeper than the one for 2x4.
I was quoted $180 to $200. After buying supplies (filters, gasket, catch pan, 7qts fluid) for about $80 (before coupon), I think $200 is within the realm of reason, but I'm still not paying it. Being in a townhouse, I'm not thrilled about having to keep a catch pan around. Even with a basement, it's going to be in the way.
Ordered a Doorman pan today, should be here Friday. Assuming my new engine is running by Saturday, you know what I'll be doing (5 months after starting this thread).
Question... where should I poke a hole in the pan to ensure that I won't damage the valve body.
The lowest part heading into the pan is going to be the filter itself. Personally I'd just pick up any form of pump from HF that will reach (the red one works for this) and use that to suck / siphon most of it out.
I put the Dorman pan on mine when I did the first fluid change, and I decided to do a fluid-only change every 15k miles. Drain plug works great - open plug, wait for it to drain, close it up, dump about 6.5qt back in, done.
This x1000! I used the exact same pump to get most of the fluid out. Used a big cardboard sheet to protect the pavement. I was able to lower the pan without sloshing anything around. Don't forget that the trans itself will still weep quite a bit of fluid while you're cleaning the pan. I had a drain pan underneath to catch the fluid from the filter as well as the drippings from the trans, which is a lot more than you'd expect. I wish I had thought to get the Dorman pan, but I might go back and exchange fluid again in the next month.
Exactly ! The 3.1 got the beefed up version of the 42re known as the 44re (I think...not too switched on about the 3.1 to be honest....so that probably has no drain plug either!) and the 2.7 got a Mercedes 722.6 (also known as the NAG 1) five speeder .....drain plug attached...at least on most...I've seen people on here who claim to have 2.7s without. I think they might not have looked hard enough as it's not a typical drain bolt and is flush to avoid damage. Some also have a tiny separate bolt to drain the torque converter.
I changed my at first by putting a heavy, tall cardboard box under the pan with my drain pan that filled up almost the whole box and the pan dropped into the box.
I recently bought & installed trans pans with a drain for my 2 WJs. Scuffed & painted them silver to see leaks or rust better.
I have 2 OEM pans in good condition if some one needs them.
Talk about easier to maintain...
I also took the opportunity to get diff covers for front & rear with drains.
Scuffed & painted them silver just for fun.
I have 4 OEM diff covers available if someone needs them...
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