So now that many WJ's are getting into whats considered high mileage i was thinking we could do a thread about what special maintenance it takes to make these things go the long haul? maybe we could even make it a sticky?
Above 100k what are some of the special maintenance things that need to be done to the WJ platform.
Make sure you state what exactley these things apply too, such as 4.7 vs 4.0 and things like that.
What is considered high mileage? 250k plus isn't uncommon for a Jeep.
My 00 WJ has 165+ on the clock. I have the 4.0L and it is still going strong.
**If** I keep this vehicle (I'm thinking I want a truck), I'll have the transmission rebuilt as I use this Jeep as a tow rig and don't want it dying on me in B.F.E.,. While the transmission is out, I'll replace the chain in the transfer case. I will also make an access hole in the spare tire hole so that changing a fuel pump is an easy job whenever, and where ever that job needs to be done. I might just replace the fuel pump before I have problems, then carry the old pump as a spare. I already replced the AC Evap, heater core, water pump, radiator, electric rad cooling fan, the fan relay, CV axle shafts, front driveshaft, and the Crankshaft Sensor. The ball joints will also be inspected (my WJ is totally stock).
Id say for the 4.0/42RE combo use a HDEO such as rotella and change it on a interval youre comfortable with 5000/7500 or adjust it using oil anylasis. Use any oil filter other than fram, use any good paper air filter. I advise against the use of K&N type filters if you use your rig offroad a lot otherwise they're alright for on road use. Change your transmission fluid and adjust bands on a regular basis 30,000 or if youre lifted running larger tires sooner (I do mine one a year or 15,000 miles whichever comes first. ATF+4 is completely synthetic and can be found for a good price at walmart for around $4/quart for the supertech brand. This is the one item that doesnt matter where you buy it or what brand. They all have to meet the Mopar spec and are often produced by one company and bottled by many. Test your coolant yearly and change as needed or follow the service interval. Leaving it in too long leaves it open to a break down of protection for the various parts of the system. If you have the 4.7 engine then its absolutely necessary you use a HOAT baised coolant due to the use of aluminum heads, timing cover, iron block, plastic radiator. For axles just a yearly check of fluid level and condition and change on a regular interval. Use whatever fluid is specified depending on drive type. Power steering should be changed if its burned up or dirty. Considering the pump and res are so close to the exhaust manifold on the 4.0 this fluid gets extreamely hot. Valvoline makes the Mopar spec fluid for a much better price than the dealer and can be found at Advance auto. Transfer cases should be done when transmission is done and again either uses ATF+4 (242) or uses a specific dealer fluid for all others. Theres no way around this one. Thats it for now, ill be late for work if I continue.
Bear - 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo - 250,000 Miles, BDS 2" lift, Overland rock rails, Dynomax cat back exhaust, 245/75/16 Kumho KL78's, Rebuilt 4.0 @ 244,000 miles.
Apollo - 2008 Mazdaspeed3 - Mazdaspeed CAI, Mazdaspeed CBE, Prosport boost gauge.
Velvet - 2005 Ford Focus ST - Wife's ride
Mines at 195K and still running strong. Always full synethic changes and keep up with maintance schedule.
I think you guys are missing the OP's question..... he wants to know what "Special maintenance" you are doing (with "special" as the key word) to make your Jeep go the long haul. For example, what changes or plans for change to ball joints, fuel pump, or other items have you made? Some Jeepers prefer to replace the OEM oil pump on high mileage Jeeps before there is even a problem.
yes this is exactly what im asking! thank you ha ha. i was trying to form a sticky so that people could go into the forum and just see the thread already there so we don't get anymore questions about fuel pumps or wheel bearings or 247 transfer case fluid and things like that,
I have the Quadra Drive system (all time 4x4), (totally stock), I have already changed the front driveshaft with a new to me shaft. I probably should add replacing the rear u-joints to my list of things to do.
once the cooling system starts leaking be prepared to replace everything (water pump, belt, thermostat, fan/relay if necessary.) I'm replacing mine now at 155k because of a leak. Because other parts will start failing not long after. Luckily you can get a new radiator from amazon for $94 shipped.
If you have a 4.0: I stopped bothering with my electrical fan and relay and just put on a clutch fan. That's a cheap mod if your WJ came without the clutch fan. It will save your engine from blowing up when your electric fan relay goes in the future.
great thread! my 01 is just over 200k now and my 00 just ticked 145k. i will be back!
As far as your 2000 WJ goes, you have about 20,000 miles less than mine. Has your experience been about equal to mine, (refer to post #2), as far as what reparis have been made? What about on your 2001? Are both Jeeps stock, or is the 2001 modified? My transmission, ball joints, rear drive shaft, and fuel pump are all OEM.