[fizzer]

so i was part of the IRO group buy and bought a 3'' lift kit for my WJ. do i need other parts for this kit or am i good with the kit. Some people told me to get a tcase drop or by DS will get shot but other people said its a waste of money. So is it necessary? Also my friend told me i will need new control arms or my ride will be bumpy. Do i need new ones or will my stock arms be fine?

[FirefightinWJ]

I wouldn't get a T-Case drop. You might as well have put a 2" BB on if your just going to make the lowest point of the jeep an inch lower with a t-case drop.

Although its not necessary, I'd recommend an A-Arm spacer.

Depending on your front driveshaft type, you may need one eventually. My front DS made it 100,000 miles, with probably 30k at 2" of lift and another 10k at 3". I'm getting a new double/single cardan built as we speak.

[jamtoy]

Get the A/Arm spacer soon. And eventually you will need to replace the front drive shaft with a good non-repezza one. Mine lasted two years with a lift so I guess it just depends on what kind of shape yours is in.

[jamtoy]

Originally Posted by FirefightinWJ

I wouldn't get a T-Case drop. You might as well have put a 2" BB on if your just going to make the lowest point of the jeep an inch lower with a t-case drop.

Although its not necessary, I'd recommend an A-Arm spacer.

Depending on your front driveshaft type, you may need one eventually. My front DS made it 100,000 miles, with probably 30k at 2" of lift and another 10k at 3". I'm getting a new double/single cardan built as we speak.

Just installed one from Carolina shaft with yokes. Doubt is will break

[ezflip]

Did you upgrade to the adjustable track bar? If not, you should have. Your stock CA's will be fine unless you find yourself with some driveline vibes. Then you will want to pick up some adjustables so you can fix your caster and pinion angles.

3" is the max you want to go with a cv-style shaft. Although, with any amount of lift, the angles change and will cause it to wear faster. Just run what you have until it fails. Then upgrade. An A-arm spacer isnt at all necessary, but again, you are changing angles so things such as bushings will wear much faster. To correct those angles in the rear, an a-arm spacer is the way to go. Otherwise, you should be happy with the kit.

[fizzer]

i did upgrade to an adjustable track bar. What are your guys thoughts on extending the factory bumpstops with the IRO ones. Do i need them to fit 31's and get more flex or will i be fine with the stock ones and minor trimming to my bumper? Also i read somewhere on JF that i will need longer brake lines. so do i just replace the factory ones with longer ones?

[JeepontheRocks]

From what Ive read your stock brake lines are good up to 5" of lift. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong. I'm also going with the IRO 3" with adj trackbar.

[WJ04]

Originally Posted by fizzer

i did upgrade to an adjustable track bar. What are your guys thoughts on extending the factory bumpstops with the IRO ones. Do i need them to fit 31's and get more flex or will i be fine with the stock ones and minor trimming to my bumper? Also i read somewhere on JF that i will need longer brake lines. so do i just replace the factory ones with longer ones?

Get the bump stops if you plan to disco, and No you don't need brake line extentions. you could get the A-arm spacer but its not really something you NEED.

[lakailimited06]

you'll NEED:

-u joint style front shaft ( go with carolina i have and so have alot of other people)...your stock one will last you on pavement but once you flex out the front that rezeppa cv joint thing will go..

-you'll most likely need a new trackbar i'd go with JKS'a adjustable one unless the IRO kit came with one

you SHOULD get:

iro's a-arm spacer although i ran my 3" setup without one for awhile and then buoght a used one and couldnt tell a different on/off road...it may help preserve the joint on the WJ a-arm in the long run( not a bad idea its a pain in the *** to change)

-bumpstop, i needed front ones with my 31" tires on my 3" lift...i extended them 3"s...

other than that you should be good

[fizzer]

i was also planning on putting 31's on so would i need bumpstops cuz couple of people on here told me i would only need to do minor trimming on the front bumper. would that work or do i need the bumpstops?

[sicWJofNWA]

x2 on the a arm spacer and replacing the front drive shaft. i installed the same lift you got (IRO 3") this past weekend and blew apart my front shaft within about 20 miles, although it was already toast beforehand so all i did was added insult to injury. i wish i had bought the a arm spacer with the lift kit because every medium to large hole i drive over now causes the ball joint in the rear a arm to bind like crazy. if you dont have one i would recommend a TC skid plate. happy wheelin brother
btw... i went with 265/75R16 (31.6") and i did not have to trim at all, i had planned on it but it was not needed

[KBSkye]

x3 on the REAR A-ARM 3in spacer. I dont know what ezflip and one other thinks by saying you wont need it. I have the 2.5 BB on my 03 WJ and when the rear axle drops all the way down its sitting on the rear control arm brackets and the A-ARM ball joint is fully bent all the way. If you BREAK that rear ball when your out in the hills, your screwed. The only thing holding the rear diff in place is your control arms which will move all around and tear up all kinds of stuff. The Moog from IronRock is cheap and 3in spacer from Kevins is also inexpensive for what your protecting from happening. Remove the rear a-arm when you go to replace the ball joint. Its ALOT easier.

Kevins - adj. track bar to re-align the front axle or its 1/2 to 3/4 off to one side.
Dual steering stabilizers big plus but optional

Bump stops for sure. Thats why they come with them. Cheap repair insurance and most kits come with them.

DONT do the T-Case drop. Its a waist of money and the double cardin front shaft will be fine as long as its not worn already from age.

Bilstein Shocks are a must for a great ride if you use it for grocery getting and awesome offroad.

Ive just done everything ive mentioned and ONLY giving you my 2 cents because ive done my research the last 3 months and everyone who actually knows jeeps all advised me of the above.

Be safe and post those pics when she's done.

Peace.


265-65-17 Nitto Tires
17 x 8 ProComp wheels 4in BS
Rears clear fenders by 1/2 inch . Fronts needed 1/2 inch trim off front lower cover. Thats It.

[n8man1068]

I'm running the 3" iro kit with only parts that came in the kit. Been running great for a year now, and i've had no issues.
I suppose it couldn't hurt to buy extra stuff, but I wouldn't let the lack of the previously mentioned parts hold you back from installing and driving it.

[ezflip]

I dont know what ezflip and one other thinks by saying you wont need it.

I say that because I know three people with WJs running that kit for years now without the spacer and have had zero issues. Should you get one, YES! Bushings and other components will wear faster at those angles. But do you NEED one, no. It performs perfectly fine without it. You just may need to replace some bushings sooner than if you didnt have one.

Originally Posted by n8man1068

I'm running the 3" iro kit with only parts that came in the kit. Been running great for a year now, and i've had no issues.
I suppose it couldn't hurt to buy extra stuff, but I wouldn't let the lack of the previously mentioned parts hold you back from installing and driving it.

Are you running the shocks that are default with the kit? I dont even know who makes them, but everyone I know that has that kit went with bilsteins because the consensus was that the default shocks were junk. If you are running them, what is your input on them?

[n8man1068]

I'm running the Deutsch Techs.
I don't have much of a reference of other shocks, but they're sturdy, and don't have the best highway manners. Pretty stiff.