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Unread 08-22-2008, 10:48 AM   #1
Double E
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Key and Ignition lock issue, key no turn

So the battery is weak and I was going to go out during lunch, jump it and drive to get a new one. I'm at work.

Not only does it not start but in the process of getting the cables, I took the key out as a habit. Now the key will go in the keyhole but it will not turn the lock to get acc. or start. It's like it's the wrong key... ( I have one Jeep).

I suspected the steering wheel was in the lock position but it turns freely and does not lock at all now. It sounds like a tow is in my future...is that right?

I'm about to try jumping it anyway to see if there's a device that's just not giving it enough power to release the key tumbler lock....but I'm grasping at straws now...

Got any ideas?

Update: tried to jump it and the ignition lock is still not turning with the key inserted. I cannot turn the key forward or backwards.

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2000 Laredo 4.7L Selec-Trac. 177K miles, Leather, 245 tires, tow package, crappy CD changer, full size spare, roof cross-rails & sunroof.
Changes & fixes: Rear Addco sway bar & greasble bushings, upgraded headlights, upgraded tail lights, new hood struts (replaced 2X), new rear hatchglass struts, new radiator (replaced 3X), new oil pressure sending unit (replaced 4X), 2 new speed sensors, 2 new door lock actuators, new ignition key cylinder, chrome front tow hooks, Mobil 1 Synthetic 5/30, Purolator Pure One oil filter, EBC slotted & dimpled rotors, EBC Greenstuff pads, new front shocks (replaced 3X), new rear shocks (replaced 2X), new IRO steering stabilizer, new timing chain cover, new water pump, thermostat, new thermostat housing, new high pressure power steering hose, Michelin-X radials, new sunroof assembly, new single-piece lug nuts, new exhaust manifold studs & gasket on driver's side, new Durango alternator. Jeepforum.com sticker, Visit cobaltboatsforum.com when you can!

Last edited by Double E; 08-22-2008 at 11:04 AM..
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Unread 08-22-2008, 11:13 AM   #2
rubbersidedown
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I had the same issue last year. Towed to stealership--new lock cylinder keyed to my key approx $125
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Unread 08-22-2008, 01:23 PM   #3
Double E
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Thanks for the note RSD.

Yep...I called a local dealer and they told me how to work around it before I got a tow truck on the way. They said to bump the head of the key while it was inserted and that would buy some time until the lock cylinder gets replaced.

Edit: Just to be clear, you hit the key on the head (tip) end of the key, with the contact of the hit going in towards the lock. Turn the key as it is hit and you'll find joy.

I tried it, it worked, jumped it, drove it to Wally-world, got a battery and am leaving the keys in the first position till I can get through this weekend. I can honestly say I fixed my jeep with a hammer now.

It appears that because the ignition has to be keyed to fit my key, it is a dealer only situation unless I have an assortment of tumblers around...

On a side note, what shiznit was an engineer trying to pull when they came up with the battery hold-down device on these things? Idiotic design. I want the diploma from what ever crap school they went to shredded and that POS chained to my hitch.
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2000 Laredo 4.7L Selec-Trac. 177K miles, Leather, 245 tires, tow package, crappy CD changer, full size spare, roof cross-rails & sunroof.
Changes & fixes: Rear Addco sway bar & greasble bushings, upgraded headlights, upgraded tail lights, new hood struts (replaced 2X), new rear hatchglass struts, new radiator (replaced 3X), new oil pressure sending unit (replaced 4X), 2 new speed sensors, 2 new door lock actuators, new ignition key cylinder, chrome front tow hooks, Mobil 1 Synthetic 5/30, Purolator Pure One oil filter, EBC slotted & dimpled rotors, EBC Greenstuff pads, new front shocks (replaced 3X), new rear shocks (replaced 2X), new IRO steering stabilizer, new timing chain cover, new water pump, thermostat, new thermostat housing, new high pressure power steering hose, Michelin-X radials, new sunroof assembly, new single-piece lug nuts, new exhaust manifold studs & gasket on driver's side, new Durango alternator. Jeepforum.com sticker, Visit cobaltboatsforum.com when you can!
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Unread 08-22-2008, 04:23 PM   #4
elmer_fud
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Double E View Post
Thanks for the note RSD.

Yep...I called a local dealer and they told me how to work around it before I got a tow truck on the way. They said to bump the head of the key while it was inserted and that would buy some time until the lock cylinder gets replaced.

I tried it, it worked, jumped it, drove it to Wally-world, got a battery and am leaving the keys in the first position till I can get through this weekend. I can honestly say I fixed my jeep with a hammer now.

It appears that because the ignition has to be keyed to fit my key, it is a dealer only situation unless I have an assortment of tumblers around...

On a side note, what shiznit was an engineer trying to pull when they came up with the battery hold-down device on these things? Idiotic design. I want the diploma from what ever crap school they went to shredded and that POS chained to my hitch.
I don't think you have to have a dealer fix the lock. Any lock smith should be able to rekey a lock cylinder. And the times i have had problems with my ignition not turning it was because the wheel was locked. I yanked on the wheel, and was able to start my jeep.
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I am not one to be changing lanes at 70 mph on a lifted truck on 33's, but since I am in Miami, I have to be prepared for the continuous influx of new drivers whose previous ride was a bicycle with wooden wheels.
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badger, badger, badger, badger, badger, badger, badger, badger, badger, badger, badger, Mushroom!!! :D
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Unread 08-23-2008, 01:08 AM   #5
ratmonkey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elmer_fud View Post
I don't think you have to have a dealer fix the lock. Any lock smith should be able to rekey a lock cylinder. And the times i have had problems with my ignition not turning it was because the wheel was locked. I yanked on the wheel, and was able to start my jeep.
wj key cylinders seem to go out about as routinely as the blend doors.
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Unread 08-28-2008, 09:12 AM   #6
Double E
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So the part came in and I looked into how to remove the lock & replace the tumblers myself.

It's a breeze. Actually I might have been able to just remove the original lockset, clean it up, lube and replace it. We'll see. The actual tumblers may have been the issue causing the key not to turn, but the new part looked "beefed up" in some areas so I used it because I alredy bought it ($104 shipped).

I also recorded the tumbler codes so that if the tumblers really are worn (they didn't look it) I can just spend 50 cents on each one (there's 8) and replce them myself in about 20 mins.

No rocket science involved, disconnect battery, insert key and get it to the RUN position then...

Remove the lower steering column trim with one phillips screw and a couple of molded plastic clips, push in a release catch to get the cylinder out, push in the retainer pin on the cylinder to get the tumbler assembly out and move the 8 tumblers and 8 springs to the new tumbler assembly one at a time. Lube it up with light grease and reassemble.

Dealer has to "key" the lock ...my a$$!
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2000 Laredo 4.7L Selec-Trac. 177K miles, Leather, 245 tires, tow package, crappy CD changer, full size spare, roof cross-rails & sunroof.
Changes & fixes: Rear Addco sway bar & greasble bushings, upgraded headlights, upgraded tail lights, new hood struts (replaced 2X), new rear hatchglass struts, new radiator (replaced 3X), new oil pressure sending unit (replaced 4X), 2 new speed sensors, 2 new door lock actuators, new ignition key cylinder, chrome front tow hooks, Mobil 1 Synthetic 5/30, Purolator Pure One oil filter, EBC slotted & dimpled rotors, EBC Greenstuff pads, new front shocks (replaced 3X), new rear shocks (replaced 2X), new IRO steering stabilizer, new timing chain cover, new water pump, thermostat, new thermostat housing, new high pressure power steering hose, Michelin-X radials, new sunroof assembly, new single-piece lug nuts, new exhaust manifold studs & gasket on driver's side, new Durango alternator. Jeepforum.com sticker, Visit cobaltboatsforum.com when you can!
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Unread 08-28-2008, 09:17 AM   #7
CMARJEEP
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Ehhh. I wouldn't use oil. Sometimes you can lube it up with graphite powder and that works.

Edit: Im talking about the old one that messed up not your new one.
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Unread 08-29-2008, 07:36 AM   #8
Double E
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Graphite....yes. I was thinking the same thing. However, the new OEM unit actually came with a small tube of light grease. The actual key cylinder and lock housing has no electrical connections inside so I'm confident in the grease application.

The old unit also had remnants of old grease on it too but it was easy to tell where it should have been re-applied for longevity & wear prevention....
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2000 Laredo 4.7L Selec-Trac. 177K miles, Leather, 245 tires, tow package, crappy CD changer, full size spare, roof cross-rails & sunroof.
Changes & fixes: Rear Addco sway bar & greasble bushings, upgraded headlights, upgraded tail lights, new hood struts (replaced 2X), new rear hatchglass struts, new radiator (replaced 3X), new oil pressure sending unit (replaced 4X), 2 new speed sensors, 2 new door lock actuators, new ignition key cylinder, chrome front tow hooks, Mobil 1 Synthetic 5/30, Purolator Pure One oil filter, EBC slotted & dimpled rotors, EBC Greenstuff pads, new front shocks (replaced 3X), new rear shocks (replaced 2X), new IRO steering stabilizer, new timing chain cover, new water pump, thermostat, new thermostat housing, new high pressure power steering hose, Michelin-X radials, new sunroof assembly, new single-piece lug nuts, new exhaust manifold studs & gasket on driver's side, new Durango alternator. Jeepforum.com sticker, Visit cobaltboatsforum.com when you can!
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Unread 11-01-2010, 07:01 PM   #9
bstrutton
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I know it's an old thread but I found it helpful & wanted to add something for those looking at the ignition lock cylinder replacement. I was going to just move the tumblers from the old to the new cylinder but noticed that the replacement (a DorMan 924-703 [wj] from O'Riely's for $66 -lifetime) actually INCLUDED 4 bags with a BUNCH of #1, 2, 3 and 4 tumblers. I did an orderly dis assembly of the old tumblers and matched them up exactly (based on the notching) against the 'spares' included in the kit. This way I have new tumblers, springs, tumbler mechanism and cylinder. Don't know if all the kits include a supply of tumblers but the DorMan did.

My 'key won't turn' and 'steering wheel won't lock' problems appear resolved

Hope this helps someone...

Last edited by bstrutton; 11-01-2010 at 07:01 PM.. Reason: misc
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Unread 09-18-2012, 01:56 PM   #10
Amadauss
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old thread but it seems my key will not turn at all. I also had this issue a while back but used the light tapping and it would work. Then for some reason it continued to work. My daughter had the issue over the weekend and she really hammered it a little harder then she probably should because now it will not work no matter what I do. Was going to follow the instructions on this thread but Double E stated insert key and put in run position. Well I cannot turn the key to get into run so that will not work. I have the plastic covers off and wanted to remove the tumbler to see if I can clean and re-grease or replace new but do I need it in run or what do I move to release it? Is it the little metal tab on the bottom of the tumbler that pushes in? Tried that but it won't come out. Any help appreciated.
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Unread 09-18-2012, 03:32 PM   #11
ZJEscape
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I did something similiar, I turned the wheel with the key out and then the key wouldnt enter. I then unhooked the battery for 10 minutes. Nothin. Then I turned the wheel back and it worked. I don't know. Just thought I'd share.
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Unread 09-18-2012, 04:13 PM   #12
Double E
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Since it's going to be replaced anyway, try a healthy shot of some brake parts cleaner in the key hole and see if that frees up things ....combined with some hits to the keyhead (using my revised instructions above).

Without getting it to the run position first, it may be a "drill-out" scenario. At least you already have the replacement assembly (you do, right?) and can see what needs to be drilled out.
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2000 Laredo 4.7L Selec-Trac. 177K miles, Leather, 245 tires, tow package, crappy CD changer, full size spare, roof cross-rails & sunroof.
Changes & fixes: Rear Addco sway bar & greasble bushings, upgraded headlights, upgraded tail lights, new hood struts (replaced 2X), new rear hatchglass struts, new radiator (replaced 3X), new oil pressure sending unit (replaced 4X), 2 new speed sensors, 2 new door lock actuators, new ignition key cylinder, chrome front tow hooks, Mobil 1 Synthetic 5/30, Purolator Pure One oil filter, EBC slotted & dimpled rotors, EBC Greenstuff pads, new front shocks (replaced 3X), new rear shocks (replaced 2X), new IRO steering stabilizer, new timing chain cover, new water pump, thermostat, new thermostat housing, new high pressure power steering hose, Michelin-X radials, new sunroof assembly, new single-piece lug nuts, new exhaust manifold studs & gasket on driver's side, new Durango alternator. Jeepforum.com sticker, Visit cobaltboatsforum.com when you can!
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Unread 09-18-2012, 07:02 PM   #13
Amadauss
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do not have the replacement. I thought I would take it out and maybe just clean it up a bit and put back together as mentioned in another response about the thought it could have been fixed that way. Jeep sat a great deal without being driven so everything on it that took any type of grease or lube was not good. Guessing you think i should get the replacement which I will do. I just want it to work now and then will leave the extra key in ignition so it stays working and get the replacement part. Will try the brake cleaner. I checked my All data Jeep stuff and it shows the pin on the bottom to take out the cylinder but also said it must be in the run position. Thanks Double E for the help, you too ZJEscape
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Unread 09-19-2012, 06:54 AM   #14
Double E
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Actually, I like your apprpoach to clean the original before replacing. It's just that if it gets cleaned & put back in, yet still fails, you have another issue in also trying to reliably use the vehicle while the part arrives.
Having the part also gives you more width of techniques in how to remove the original.
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2000 Laredo 4.7L Selec-Trac. 177K miles, Leather, 245 tires, tow package, crappy CD changer, full size spare, roof cross-rails & sunroof.
Changes & fixes: Rear Addco sway bar & greasble bushings, upgraded headlights, upgraded tail lights, new hood struts (replaced 2X), new rear hatchglass struts, new radiator (replaced 3X), new oil pressure sending unit (replaced 4X), 2 new speed sensors, 2 new door lock actuators, new ignition key cylinder, chrome front tow hooks, Mobil 1 Synthetic 5/30, Purolator Pure One oil filter, EBC slotted & dimpled rotors, EBC Greenstuff pads, new front shocks (replaced 3X), new rear shocks (replaced 2X), new IRO steering stabilizer, new timing chain cover, new water pump, thermostat, new thermostat housing, new high pressure power steering hose, Michelin-X radials, new sunroof assembly, new single-piece lug nuts, new exhaust manifold studs & gasket on driver's side, new Durango alternator. Jeepforum.com sticker, Visit cobaltboatsforum.com when you can!
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Unread 09-20-2012, 09:17 AM   #15
Amadauss
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Ok after taking a couple things apart, was able to get the key cylinder out. Another trick I think mentioned is to turn the steering wheel as hard as you can thinking you are breaking it and the key will turn in the cylinder. Not sure why that works but it does.
Anyway, got it out and now not sure without a replacement how to take apart and clean up. Here are two pics of it along with showing the pin that needs to be pushed in for release. When cylinder is in the pin is facing down at the floor of jeep. Can you give me some idea of how to take apart and then I will clean it up. Thanks.



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