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nierace 01-21-2008 09:02 PM

Jeep WJ 247-242HD Swap
1999-04 Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ Quadra-Trac/Quadra-Drive to Selec-Trac
(NP247 -> NP242HD)

Parts needed:

242HD (Only found in 2002-03 V8 grand Cherokees with Selec-Trac)
Matching drive shaft out of a 2002-03 V8 WJ with Selec-Trac
2 quarts of ATF +4

Shifter assembly from a WJ with Selec-Trac
Mopar Part number: 52109671AB

If you have a 1999-2001 WJ, you might have a CV joint at the transfer case instead of a u-joint. In this case you will need to also find a donor shaft out of a 02+ V8 Grand Cherokee, or swap your old output to the new transfer case. The u-joint setup is much better and highly recommended however.

Tools needed:

1/4” Ratchet set
Short 1/4“ extension
14mm or 9/16” deep socket
14mm or 9/16” regular socket
14mm or 9/16” wrench (ratcheting wrench highly recommended)
12mm regular socket
8mm regular socket
10mm Allen key
Slotted screw driver
Oil bucket
Floor jack
Jack stands (optional)

NP247 Removal:

1.) Depending on the rig you are working on you may or may not want to put it on jack stands.
a. If you have a 4” lift you will have enough room to work underneath on level ground, if not I would recommend putting it on stands.
b. Putting it on stands will also make it easier to take off the drive shafts.

2.) Once on stands and you have a transfer case skid plate, you will need to remove it. The stock one uses 3 bolts on the cross member, and 2 on the unibody.

3.) You will now need to drain the transfer case fluid.
a. Place your oil bucket below the drain plug.
b. Using a 10mm Allen key remove the fill and drain plugs.
c. Clean them and put them some where safe.

Diagram 1.1:

4.) While the transfer case drains remove the rear drive shaft.
a. Using a 1/4“ ratchet, extension and 8mm socket, remove the bolts and the straps on the universal joint at the differential end of the rear drive shaft. Place them in a safe place.
b. Use a mallet if needed to knock the u-joint out of the yoke on the rear differential.
c. Once freed pull the drive shaft out of the slip yoke end of the transfer case. Place some where safe, though it will not be re-used.

5.) Remove the front drive shaft.
a. Using a 1/4“ ratchet and 12mm regular socket remove the bolts from the front output of the transfer case to the drive shaft.
b. Use a mallet if needed to knock the u-joint out of the yoke at the transfer case.
c. Once free you can rest the drive shaft on the cross member as you will be re-using it.

Diagram 1.2:

6.) Lower the cross member so that you have room to work.
a. Use a floor jack to support the center of the cross member, jack it up so there is some pressure on the floor jack.
b. Remove the bolts.
- Use 15mm socket on the bolts.
- I have Claytons LA’s, so I use 14mm sock and wrench.
- Place the bolts/nuts in a safe location.
c. Carefully Lower the cross member 1-2” ***Do not drop it lower***

Diagram 1.3:

7.) Remove shifter lever cable and bracket.
a. Pop the cable end off of the lever at the transfer case, you should be able to use your hands, if not use a slotted screw driver to pry it off.
b. Using 14mm socket remove 3 bolts located on driver side on the transmission. (Diagram 1.4)
c. Using a large wrench, put the bottom jaw on the bottom of the bracket, then the top jaw on the lip of the spring clamp holding the cable in the bracket. Apply pressure and it will pop right off. (Diagram 1.5)
d. Put the cable through the bottom hole, then put the spring clamp back on.

Diagram 1.4:

Diagram 1.5 - In original position:

Diagram 1.6 – In new position:

8.) Remove transfer case nuts.
a. Clean off the showing thread and soak in penetrating oil or WD40.
b. Use a combination of the 14mm deep socket, regular socket and ratcheting wrench.
c. The reason you will need the short sockets is there is not much room once you start to unthread the nuts on some of them. So you need to swap out or it will get stuck and you wont be able to get the wrench/socket out.
d. Be very patient as you will be doing a lot of 1 click ratcheting.
e. Clean the nuts thoroughly.

9.) Once the bolts are out, remove the transfer case. Having another person would be helpful, it weighs 80lbs so you should be able to manage it on your own. Place in a safe place.
a. Check your transmission output seal and replace if needed.
b. Check your breather tube to make sure its not split, if it is, cut off the split section and connect a new piece.

Diagram 1.7:

NP242HD Installation:

1.) Lift up and line up the 242HD with the bolt holes in the transmission mount.
a. You may need to rotate the input of the transfer case to line up with the transmission for it to slide in.
b. Once all the way in, it will be able to support its on weight.
c. Put the transfer case nuts back on, and use anti-seize.

2.) Once the transfer case is in position, bolt the shifter cable bracket back up.
a. Reinstall the 3 14mm bolts.
b. Clip the end of the cable onto the transfer case shifter, you may need to use a pair of pliers to pop it on.

3.) Bolt the cross member back up. Torque the 15mm bolts to 30-34ft lbs

4.) Reconnect the front drive shaft. Apply lock tite on the 12mm bolts then tighten.

5.) Connect the new rear drive shaft.
a. Slide the transfer case end into the slip yoke. You may need to rotate it so the splines match up.
b. Place the differential end back in the yoke, put the u-joint straps on, apply lock-tite to the 8mm bolt then tighten.

6.) Drain any remaining oil in the NP242HD.
a. Place your oil bucket below the drain plug.
b. Using a 10mm Allen key remove the fill and drain plugs.
c. Let what ever is in it drain out, then reinstall the drain plug.
d. Now use 2 quarts of ATF+4 to fill the transfer case.
e. Reinstall the fill plug

Diagram 1.8:

7.) Reinstall skid plate.

8.) Remove jack stands.


I used a sticker instead of switching out the shifter assembly, since you can use your old one without a problem.

Expect to spend approximately 4-8 hrs to complete this swap.

***I just noticed when I did this write up it was before I started working with Carolina Driveline - I highly recommend them, I ended up using them and replacing the junkyard shaft when I went from 5" to 8" of lift.

TX-WJ 01-21-2008 09:48 PM

Awsome write-up :cheers2: .

MuddyLuxury 01-21-2008 10:19 PM

did you take it for a test drive to see if this helped with your vibes??

nierace 01-21-2008 10:23 PM

All gone.

Just have very minor vibes from 50-55 in the rear, still have to do the pinion angle for the different shaft.

10achik 01-21-2008 10:55 PM

Nice Job Nick, hope you don't mind, but I added your write-up to the FAQ's :thumbsup:

QuadraTokn 01-21-2008 10:57 PM

Can you find the HD in the '02-03 I6's too, or are they only in the V8's?

nierace 01-21-2008 11:11 PM


Originally Posted by QuadraTokn
Can you find the HD in the '02-03 I6's too, or are they only in the V8's?

V8's ONLY!

TX-WJ 01-21-2008 11:55 PM

I'd love to do that someday, but that is such a tough find tho, a donor V8 with a 242......

Virmagicus 01-21-2008 11:56 PM

Excellent writeup with great pics. Super job Nick.

erocksnow 01-22-2008 12:48 AM

nicely done....I definitely want to do this one day...quadra drive sucks with big tires

MSU.WJ 01-22-2008 07:08 AM

Nice job, and no vibes? Keeping your jeep now? :cheers2:

nierace 01-22-2008 07:16 AM

Yeah just very minor rear vibes, front ones are completely gone.

The aussie behaves much better and doesn't bind up now even if its in 2wd or FT 4wd, FT 4wd it is best.

We'll see about selling it I may not have a choice...I'd like to keep it.

ArloGuthroJeep 01-22-2008 08:21 AM


Originally Posted by 10achik
Nice Job Nick, hope you don't mind, but I added your write-up to the FAQ's :thumbsup:

Yeah, you added it right after I did:teehee::rofl:

natrosso 11-04-2008 12:53 AM

Thanks for all the info on the swapout
I did this conversion on my 4.0L, and it works great.

darmstro 01-18-2009 07:26 PM

Thanks for this write up. I found a 242HD and will be getting rid of my non-working Quadra-Drive unit in the next couple of weeks.

The time now is 01:17 AM.

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