Intermittent Cruise Control Issue - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 09-24-2017, 01:34 AM Thread Starter
LittleIgo
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2002 WJ 
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Belgrade
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Intermittent Cruise Control Issue

Hoping I could get some help. I am having the somewhat infamous cruise control issue where sometimes it will work fine, but sometimes I will turn cruise control on, try to set it, nothing happens and then the cruise light goes off and won't come back on until I turn the car off. Sometimes I am able to set it, however, if I have to disengage it, I am not always able to reengage it. Other times, I try to engage it, I can feel it "grab" for a second, then it disengages and the cruise control system turns off. I have recently replaced the following (for other, but possibly related reasons):

Airbag Clock spring
Throttle Position Sensor
Multifunction Switch

I also replaced my steering wheel, as the leather on mine was worn away and would seep in hot weather. The new steering wheel was in better shape, and I tested the switches and they seemed to work fine.

I have also looked at the vacuum lines and didn't see any noticeable breaks/leaks.

I do get the P1595 error as well. Any ideas?

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post #2 of 9 Old 09-24-2017, 06:01 AM
Cobra Jeep
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Have you tried a brake switch? One with bad contacts could be causing it to think you have your brakes on. The WJ brake switch has more than one set of contacts in it, so your brake lights could still function normally, but the other contacts could be dirty or bad.

'93 YJ 4.0L, AX-15, NP-231HD/SYE, 8.8in rear, OME 2.5 lift, home made front hub conversion, hydroboost. Warn M10000 winch. Currently building a stroker.

'79 Cherokee Chief, 401 MPFI fuel injection, T-18/D-20 and hydroboost. Otherwise stock.
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post #3 of 9 Old 09-24-2017, 05:04 PM
gtg413i
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X3. Go grab 2 or 3 brake switches from a junkyard. The first one you swap in will likely fix your issue. There is no symptom really sometimes if this switch is bad. Also, shy away from new ones- they seem cheap as my new switch was the problem. You should also replace the vacuum lines with gas grade lines. The factory ones are guaranteed to crack at some point. I know. Just remove that battery tray one last time and do it right. Then enjoy cruise control again

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post #4 of 9 Old 09-24-2017, 10:48 PM
Vvrjrlaw
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After the switch I'd look to the vacuum system. The lines get hot and they will crack ever so slightly. You could get a vacuum gauge and put it in line. A fluctuating gauge or one with low suction is indicative of a bad line. My suggestion on replacement is the same as above. Good luck.
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post #5 of 9 Old 09-25-2017, 10:40 AM
gtg413i
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Agreed, Start with replacing the vacuum lines. Just looking at them may not be sufficient as they can crack underneath, usually around the connectors. You have to take the battery and tray out to really inspect them. If you haven't done that yet, it is the first step. Go ahead and replace them with fuel hose while you have them accessible. If that doesn't work, then try the brake switch.

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post #6 of 9 Old 09-25-2017, 12:30 PM Thread Starter
LittleIgo
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Location: Belgrade
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Sounds like I am taking my battery tray out again. And the brake switch y'all are referring to is the one under the steering column correct? What did y'all pay at the junkyard for a new one. The junkyard here in Bozeman is notorious for either giving you a decent deal or charging 80-120 percent of new part retail, depending on who is at the counter.
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post #7 of 9 Old 09-25-2017, 06:38 PM
gtg413i
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consider it your last time then! I took mine out 4 times before I replaced the brake switch. A stuck brake light gave mine away. I think I paid about $3. It's the one under the dash and a royal pain to replace it, so that's why I say grab a couple. I tried a new one from ebay and that one failed within 2 years, so I wouldn't trust a new one over the junkyard one. Even though I rarely get to use my cruise control, it's nice knowing there's one less thing on the never ending break / fix list of the WJ.

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post #8 of 9 Old 09-26-2017, 06:27 AM
Double E
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As noted previously, on the 4.7, the vac lines on the driver's side of the intake are made of play-dough and puppy whiskers. They crumble like a cookie after a few years. Check them all and especially the ones running around to the back of the intake. They'll prevent CC from engaging and would cause intermittent operation once they lose vacuum.

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post #9 of 9 Old 09-27-2017, 09:24 AM
dutch724
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I have had a kinked wire cause the issue with mine. I had to take it to the dealer to figure that one out. They said the wire was under the front passenger kick panel.
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