For a bare bones 4" lift, with all the cheapest options and only what you absolutely need, budget at minimum $1000 for the springs, cheap shocks, adjustable track bar, front control arms, sway bar links, and A-arm spacer, assuming you can find most of those parts used. Unless you already have a double cardon u-joint front drive shaft, budget another $100 for a used drive shaft or $300 for a new one. Of course to deal with the death wobble that you'll have at 4" of lift on short arms, you'll need to budget another few hundred bucks to replace the steering stabilizer, any worn tie rod ends or the front control arm bushings located in the front axle (and these items will be heavily worn if they are original), and at least one alignment to get it resembling driveable. And, if you want to actually lift it the right way (still the "cheap" way), budget another $400 to replace the rear lower control arms and rear sway bar, and while you've got the springs out, it only makes sense to replace the isolators, so budget another $120 for all eight of those.
This doesn't even mention long arm kits, but you're probably getting the point that you cannot lift a WJ cheaply. Even with 2" pucks, you're going to very quickly blow out the stock length shocks in the front (rears will be fine), and you'll want to replace those because it's going to ride like crap at that point. Look for used 2" springs or pucks. Do not under any circumstances buy or use pucks that are more than 2.5" in height. They are unsafe, period. Buy the best front shocks you can afford for the better ride quality, but at least get them in the right length or it's going to ride like crap.
There is no point in putting in used isolators, you might as well just leave yours in there.
2003 WJ in Jeep Green Metallic, 4.0/242/4.10's. 4" Teraflex springs w/ RE monotube shocks and IRO short arms, cheap intake w/ amsoil filter, 2.5" hi flow cat and back exhaust, lots of lights and other misc crap.
Check out my build thread here:
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