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Building a Bumper?Ruffstuff Axle Simple Swap Kit!~Artec JK 1 TON SWAP~

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Unread 05-22-2013, 08:24 AM   #16
ChrisHager
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$160 from their site: http://jksmfg.com/i-8952506-grand-ch...-trackbar.html

Kolak sells them as well most likely at a cheaper price.

You may consider upgrading the bushings from KOR for $60 while you're at it: http://www.kevinsoffroad.com/cart/ha...r-track-p-290/

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Originally Posted by tommyooooooh View Post
But ChrisHager makes me want to poor water on a burning bucket of gasoline now just out of curiosity.
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Originally Posted by billzcat1 View Post
The latest lift kit from Rough Country? :D
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Your symptoms sounds just like what it does when it's not doing what it should because of how it is.
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Unread 05-22-2013, 08:24 AM   #17
adavis39
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Originally Posted by aestrad1 View Post
Nope. Your steering and track bar need to stay in relation. The drop bracket lets you use the stock bar. Drop bracket NEEDS the drop pitan arm. This is a band aid and the cheap (and incorrect) way to fix the problem.

With and adjustable track bar (and no drop bracket) you use the stock pitman arm. Ths is the correct way to do it.
yep....spend the little bit extra and do it right. buy a JKS adjustable trac bar and throw in some KOR bushings (the JKS one suk)
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Unread 05-22-2013, 09:04 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by Laredo2003WJ View Post

****. I dont think this kit came with the adjustable trac bar
I know it didnt. He needs it. The stock trac bar will shift axle to one side, driver side. Thats why RC supplied the trac bar bracket but if he aint gonna use, he needs an adjustable.
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Unread 05-22-2013, 09:24 AM   #19
ezflip
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Your choice of kits and additional necessary parts aside, you can install it at home with no special tools. If you dont want to use spring compressors, unbolt the sway bar endlinks and lower control arms before you install the springs. That will give you plenty of room to install the springs.

I installed the x-series kit on my last WJ by myself in about 9 hours. Should be even faster if you have a helper.
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Unread 05-22-2013, 09:32 AM   #20
Laredo2003WJ
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Just picked up a heavy duty Zone Off Road at my cost for 115! Thanks for all your help guys! Anything else.you can think off besides this that ill need?
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Unread 05-22-2013, 09:37 AM   #21
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Glad you got it figured out. I was gonna offer you my old IRO fixed TB for 3"-4" in case you weren't able to find something.

As for other items needed, I didn't see anyone mention a torque wrench, assuming you don't already have one.
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Unread 05-22-2013, 09:46 AM   #22
Laredo2003WJ
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Have one of those! Man you guys really rock on here! Always help and no one talks smack! I love it!
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Unread 05-22-2013, 10:20 AM   #23
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One thing they didn't tell me in my kit was that I would need pretty much every size of both wrenches and deep sockets. You might also want to consider changing out that rear upper ball joint as well. You will have it 90% off anyway during your install. Those rear bolts on top of the rear differential about brought me to tears getting them out. I didn't want to have to take that apart again - you probably won't either.
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Unread 05-22-2013, 10:25 AM   #24
Laredo2003WJ
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Good to know. Ill look into the rear upper ball joint replacement as well!
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Unread 05-22-2013, 10:50 AM   #25
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"Your choice of kits and additional necessary parts aside, you can install it at home with no special tools. If you dont want to use spring compressors, unbolt the sway bar endlinks and lower control arms before you install the springs. That will give you plenty of room to install the springs. "
As stated you will not need a spring compressor. I installed my OME HD lift this past weekend without one and it was easy. In the rear, just unbolt the sway bar brackets from the axle leaving the links attached. The bar will dangle out of the way. Then jack up the rear end place jack stands under the frame rails. Unbolt the shocks from the axle-you can leave them bolted uptop unless you are replacing them too. Let the axle droop and the springs will almost fall out. Getting them back in, you may need to jack up one side of the axle to provide you with a little more droop on the other side. I then ended up having a buddy stand on one end as well to get just a hair more room to get the longer springs in. Take your time and you will be fine. Good Luck.
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Unread 05-22-2013, 12:04 PM   #26
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i choose to rent a strut comperssor when i did mine... helped alot cuz i was doing it by myself want to get it done quickly. but i got mine installed in around 8 hours on my own, but i did have a fork truck to help lift the truck for my jack stands.
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Unread 05-22-2013, 02:48 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by its-me-B
i choose to rent a strut comperssor when i did mine... helped alot cuz i was doing it by myself want to get it done quickly. but i got mine installed in around 8 hours on my own, but i did have a fork truck to help lift the truck for my jack stands.
You will want the strut compressor.. More than likely you will then get the question "I didn't think that the WJ had struts, does it?" At that they are correct but the standard spring compressor goes in the middle of the spring and worked well for removing them. However, the RC springs have pretty tight coils and I could not get the tool out of the middle after I got them in place. The strut compressor goes on either side of the spring so that is not an issue. Additionally, i think that the OME HD springs are technically for a 3" lift.. You have 4" there and I don't think I could have installed my RC X-Series lift without them. I didn't try but I know I had to compress them quite a bit to get them in there with the axle drooping.

I don't know where you live but I would take a look at those spring perches too while you are in there. Mine on the drivers side fell apart when I pulled off the boot.
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Unread 05-22-2013, 07:01 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brouwmat View Post
You will want the strut compressor.. More than likely you will then get the question "I didn't think that the WJ had struts, does it?" At that they are correct but the standard spring compressor goes in the middle of the spring and worked well for removing them. However, the RC springs have pretty tight coils and I could not get the tool out of the middle after I got them in place. The strut compressor goes on either side of the spring so that is not an issue. Additionally, i think that the OME HD springs are technically for a 3" lift.. You have 4" there and I don't think I could have installed my RC X-Series lift without them. I didn't try but I know I had to compress them quite a bit to get them in there with the axle drooping.

I don't know where you live but it would take a look at those spring perches too while you are in there. Mine on the drivers side fell apart when I pulled off the boot.
exactly what what he said... I had had both spring and strut compressors but used the strut one because the spring compressor just had no chance of fitting inside the spring, stock or iro springs
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Unread 05-22-2013, 07:06 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brouwmat View Post
You will want the strut compressor.. More than likely you will then get the question "I didn't think that the WJ had struts, does it?" At that they are correct but the standard spring compressor goes in the middle of the spring and worked well for removing them. However, the RC springs have pretty tight coils and I could not get the tool out of the middle after I got them in place. The strut compressor goes on either side of the spring so that is not an issue. Additionally, i think that the OME HD springs are technically for a 3" lift.. You have 4" there and I don't think I could have installed my RC X-Series lift without them. I didn't try but I know I had to compress them quite a bit to get them in there with the axle drooping.

I don't know where you live but I would take a look at those spring perches too while you are in there. Mine on the drivers side fell apart when I pulled off the boot.
Quote:
Originally Posted by its-me-B View Post
exactly what what he said... I had had both spring and strut compressors but used the strut one because the spring compressor just had no chance of fitting inside the spring, stock or iro springs
You guys just weren't doing it right 4" springs are SOO much easier and faster without compressors. I didn't have a fork lift and I finished mine is the same amount of time as its-me-B. All you have to do in most cases is disconnect the sway bar. If you need more droop than that, unbolt the lower control arms. Plenty of room. I literally had a hard time keeping the springs in while I bolted everything back up. Had to put my jack under the axle and jack it up to keep the springs from falling back out.

If I would have had a forklift, I could have done entire install by myself in about 6 hours.
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Unread 05-23-2013, 07:15 AM   #30
ChrisHager
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Originally Posted by ezflip View Post
You guys just weren't doing it right 4" springs are SOO much easier and faster without compressors. I didn't have a fork lift and I finished mine is the same amount of time as its-me-B. All you have to do in most cases is disconnect the sway bar. If you need more droop than that, unbolt the lower control arms. Plenty of room. I literally had a hard time keeping the springs in while I bolted everything back up. Had to put my jack under the axle and jack it up to keep the springs from falling back out.

If I would have had a forklift, I could have done entire install by myself in about 6 hours.
I agree with ezflip. If you set the 'frame' high up on jack stands, unbolt the the sway bar end links and shocks, and use a small floor jack under each side of the axle when working on the opposite side, you should have no problems at all...
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ChrisHager's 'Grilled' Thread

WJ Torque Specs

Quote:
Originally Posted by tommyooooooh View Post
But ChrisHager makes me want to poor water on a burning bucket of gasoline now just out of curiosity.
Quote:
Originally Posted by billzcat1 View Post
The latest lift kit from Rough Country? :D
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeeples View Post
Your symptoms sounds just like what it does when it's not doing what it should because of how it is.
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