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-   -   I want to order some brakes today (http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/i-want-order-some-brakes-today-1047984/)

matrix849 06-09-2010 08:50 AM

I want to order some brakes today
 
I want to order some brakes, rotors, and maybe calipers (big maybe).

I've never been impressed with my jeeps stopping power, and its time for some new pads and rotors at least. I've been reading a few threads on different pads and rotors, and didn't know if anyone had anything specific they liked.

I don't want a chinese made, or remanufactured product (would prefer made in the U.S.A.)

And I want Ceramic Pads.

I was looking at these rotors
2002 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE Front Brake Rotors - Cross-Drilled & Slotted eds.67042

But I read on another thread someone had coated ones so they wouldn't rust?

I was also thinking about switching to a multi-piston caliper, but I don't know if that will make any difference in my stopping power (I'm mostly street, with an occasional off-road, nothing crazy)

JTM1 06-09-2010 09:35 AM

I am quite happy with my crossdrilled rotors that I ordered for Kolak Performance and the pads he recommended.

SplitNail 06-09-2010 09:42 AM

Where in W. Houston do you live? I live out in Katy. We should meet up!

Technohead 06-09-2010 10:31 AM

Cross-drilled and slotted rotors are a waste (unless you are driving a race car). Read what the renowned Billavista has to say about them:

Billavista on brakes

The most bang-for-buck will come from quality pads mated to stock replacement rotors. Its hard to beat Hawk HPS pads IMO.

Kolak 06-09-2010 01:33 PM

The Stillen cross-drilled rotors have proven themselves to be well-worth the investment. Stopping power and fade resistance are both nicely improved over plain, composite rotors. I've been using these on my Jeeps for over 16 years and selling them to Jeepers for 14 years. If you search the forums you'll see countless posts praising their quality and performance.

I have them sale-priced this week. Send me a PM with your email address and I'll send you all the information.

JTM1 06-09-2010 01:38 PM

Will you get off of it, while slotted and dimpled seldom show any improvement over a standard blank crossdrilled actually does. Just look at the SAE comparisons if you need more confirmation. And really, only race cars? Dirt Bikes, ATVs, and many Harleys even come standard with cross drilled rotors. Not everyone will see a stopping improvement, but nearly everyone will see an increased resistance to warping. The improvement I see is while pulling a trailer (reduce brake fade) and in ride your brakes traffic.

By the way Billavista's equation on thermal transfer is only valid for the transfer between the pads and the rotors in an enviroment where the contact area is the same, and it has little bearing on thermal loss or the transfer of heat to the atmosphere which is effected more by surface area.

Technohead 06-09-2010 04:30 PM

Heat transfer depends on the surface area and the thermal gradient, i.e. there has to be some cold air next to that surface area in order for heat to flux. Sure, when you drill the holes you increase the surface area; unfortunately that extra surface is located in a hot spot = not as efficient heat transfer. Conversely, the thermal capacity of the rotors depends on the mass. Drilling holes means less mass, less thermal capacity, and (potentially) less efficient braking. There is an optimal middle ground where you can add enough surface area by drilling such that you can shed the heat faster while still not reducing the mass enough to offset those gains via loss of thermal capacity. I'm a member of the SAE and have actually used CFD to optimize brake rotors so I know a little something about the topic.

So yea, if you want to waste your money, go ahead. . . not me!

:cheers2:

straty1987 06-09-2010 05:51 PM

well hears another nice discussion.

to the OP
the link you posted looks OK but dont know if anyone has tired those.

first you should find out which caliber you have so you get the right pads. and since yours is a 02 could be wither one. if the front and teh rear caliber slook the same their both Teves.
if teh front and back look diffrent teh firnt is Akebono and teh rear is Teves.
aslo can look behind te frotn caliber and if its teh Akebono will have it write on the back.

most people upgrade the caliber to Akebono since i help the rotor bit some never have problems

can get the OEM pads for a decent price WJ Front Brake Kit

Kolak 06-09-2010 06:57 PM

Stillen's manager of the braking division an engineer and is also a member of the SAE. He is a very a very methodical, thoughtful individual. I've had several exchanges with him over the years and it's clear that the company's design focus and philosophy is to improve braking performance. They do not take a scattershot approach to their design and manufacturing. All machining is done in-house to assure consistent quality.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Technohead (Post 9600606)
Heat transfer depends on the surface area and the thermal gradient, i.e. there has to be some cold air next to that surface area in order for heat to flux. Sure, when you drill the holes you increase the surface area; unfortunately that extra surface is located in a hot spot = not as efficient heat transfer. Conversely, the thermal capacity of the rotors depends on the mass. Drilling holes means less mass, less thermal capacity, and (potentially) less efficient braking. There is an optimal middle ground where you can add enough surface area by drilling such that you can shed the heat faster while still not reducing the mass enough to offset those gains via loss of thermal capacity. I'm a member of the SAE and have actually used CFD to optimize brake rotors so I know a little something about the topic.

So yea, if you want to waste your money, go ahead. . . not me!

:cheers2:


freakinheep89 06-09-2010 07:43 PM

to the OP- my mom has an 03 WJ, i found some two piston calipers on morris 4x4 center.com about 6 months ago for a little more than a new caliper goes for at a parts store. the larger calipers do make a difference as far as brake fade, and we have seen alot of improvement towing the boat. the bigger calipers need larger pads, and provide better braking. DISCLAIMER!!!! her WJ is a street only vehicle!!! this is not an off road tested upgrade.

greasefingers 06-09-2010 08:04 PM

The 1994 era GC never stopped well and there is not much to be done. Every single pad has ceramic in it. The quote ceramic pads just have a higher ceramic content is not necessary, IMO. I have a 1994 Volvo station wagon that stops on a dime. So the bottom line is that the whole brake system is what stops the vehicle and not just the rotor & pads. I changed my 4runner to drilled & slotted rotors and I could not tell the difference from the OEM. I would simply replace the pads at or before thickness and have the surface of the rotor true (meaning cut them or replace them).

RedlegWJ 06-10-2010 07:49 AM

Even the cheaper Ebay specials are better than early OEM. I commute around 80 mile each way, with occasional hard braking for deer and morons. Even suffered a locked caliper with them. Not much gain in distance, buy no warping or cracking yet and still stops nice and even, no pulling.

xJoshxx 06-10-2010 08:00 AM

Stillens I love them MANY MANY people on Here have Gotten them and have had Nothing but Excellent Results.

matrix849 06-10-2010 01:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by freakinheep89 (Post 9601656)
to the OP- my mom has an 03 WJ, i found some two piston calipers on morris 4x4 center.com about 6 months ago for a little more than a new caliper goes for at a parts store. the larger calipers do make a difference as far as brake fade, and we have seen alot of improvement towing the boat. the bigger calipers need larger pads, and provide better braking. DISCLAIMER!!!! her WJ is a street only vehicle!!! this is not an off road tested upgrade.

Same size rotors though?

matrix849 06-10-2010 01:22 PM

And if you like your rotors and remember what they are can you post the manufacturer?


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