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Unread 11-20-2013, 10:29 PM   #1
Toreyjw1
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I need serious help! I'm stumped

Hello all, my name is Torey, I'm new to the forum and I just recently purchased my first jeep! Its a 99 WJ grand Cherokee with the 4.7.

I bought it with 160k on it with a acting up rear diff for 2500. Very clean and well kept. Everything runs and operates well besides one problem. It acts as if the rear diff is locking up. Binds around tight corners and skips the inner tire. Some research pointed to the vari-lok LSD setups.

Well coming to find out, my jeep is a quadra-trac 2 and should not have the vari-loks . I believe I confirmed this by identifying the diff by its tag. Labels 3 73. Not 3L73.

In addition, if you jack the rear end up and spin the tires, they spin opposite as if it were a open diff. Even when spining it super fast. I love this truck and intend to do what ever is necessary to make this right.

My question is:

if I have an open diff (as all the literature points too) why would my rear end be binding and acting as of it is a locked straight axle?

is there a way to determine if o have an after market locker in it or is this maybe a separate issue?

Amy help is greatly appreciated as I am beyond stumped!


Thanks so much!

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Unread 11-20-2013, 10:31 PM   #2
StrokedWJ
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Take off the rear differential cover and take a look inside. Post a picture for help if you're not sure what your looking at.
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Unread 11-20-2013, 10:47 PM   #3
Toreyjw1
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OK, my concern was once I open her up. I want to ensure I have the right fluid to put back in it! I plan to open it up this weekend. I just remove the back cover correct? Thanks!
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Unread 11-21-2013, 12:00 AM   #4
thnksno
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You might need to add a "friction modifier." I tried to go without on my Trac-lok and it was no bueno, made strange noises.
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Unread 11-21-2013, 06:14 AM   #5
ezflip
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thnksno View Post
You might need to add a "friction modifier." I tried to go without on my Trac-lok and it was no bueno, made strange noises.
Friction modifier is not needed if it is indeed an open diff. We need to know what it is before anything else. My guess would be that there isn't much fluid in it in the first place. This can cause binding issues in an open diff. The other possibility is that the transfer case is what is actually causing the bind. So check that fluid as well and make sure it is clear, not red.
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Unread 11-21-2013, 09:13 AM   #6
Jeeples
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OP-

Are you sure it's not the t-case binding up? In other words, are you positive the skipping is coming from the rear of the vehicle and not the front? Typically if the viscous coupler in the t-case is shot or the t-case has the wrong fluid, it can cause symptoms similar to what you're experiencing. If it's bad enough the steering wheel will kick back when making tight turns, but that's not always the case.

Being that the vehicle is new to you, I would recommend changing both the front and rear diff fluids, along with using the correct dealer supplied t-case fluid and see if your symptoms persist.
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Unread 11-21-2013, 09:17 AM   #7
ezflip
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeeples View Post
OP-

Are you sure it's not the t-case binding up? In other words, are you positive the skipping is coming from the rear of the vehicle and not the front? Typically if the viscous coupler in the t-case is shot or the t-case has the wrong fluid, it can cause symptoms similar to what you're experiencing. If it's bad enough the steering wheel will kick back when making tight turns, but that's not always the case.

Being that the vehicle is new to you, I would recommend changing both the front and rear diff fluids, along with using the correct dealer supplied t-case fluid and see if your symptoms persist.
Fyi, our transfer cases do not have a viscous coupling... When our case fails, it generally fails to rear wheel drive with no other symptoms. But, if it's low on fluid, it can cause some binding.
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Unread 11-21-2013, 09:38 AM   #8
Jeeples
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ezflip View Post
Fyi, our transfer cases do not have a viscous coupling... When our case fails, it generally fails to rear wheel drive with no other symptoms. But, if it's low on fluid, it can cause some binding.
Semantics.

Point being the progressive coupler requires a certain fluid to function properly. Use of the incorrect fluid, improper service intervals, or low fluid level can cause binding.

While a completely inoperative coupling will leave a WJ with only 2WD, I would consider a coupling 'shot' if you still get binding on pavement with the correct fluid fill.
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Unread 11-21-2013, 10:06 AM   #9
Toreyjw1
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wow, all you guys are very helpful! Im very close to being 100% that the binding is in the rear. when the guy pulled it out of emissions, the inside tire was spinning as fast as the outside wheel was and was skipping and barking like a locked axle would. i am not experiencing any real issues or noticeable binding from the front end.

today, i am going to open up the diffs to see what I'm looking at, also i will be replacing the t case fluid with mopar t case fluid.

One question, is the front diff like the rear to service? remove the cover and drain, fill back up to the fill hole? also, i have never changed fluid in a transfer case. is there any do's and donts wiht this one here? it is the nv247 i believe.

also, my 4wd works great. went up a 40 degree hill backwards on slippery pine straw and i experienced 0 wheel slip. what fluid should i fill it up wiht? the tag is stamped 3 73 and i didnt see anything on it about friction modifier

Thanks so much everyone! im stoked to learn about these trucks because ive already fallen in love!

Torey
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Unread 11-21-2013, 10:06 AM   #10
Toreyjw1
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also, how many quarts for the t case and does any one know ho many quarts of gear oil for the diffs? any particular brand? THANKS!!!!
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Unread 11-21-2013, 10:11 AM   #11
Jeeples
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T-case service is pretty simple, just a fill and drain plug, I think they're a 10MM allen wrench, someone correct me if I'm wrong. I highly recommend removing the fill plug before draining the case, they can be a little difficult to remove and once the case in drained, you're staying put until it's filled.
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Unread 11-21-2013, 10:26 AM   #12
brouwmat
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Be careful with the plugs in the case.. They strip out easily.

If you go to any auto parts store they will be able to tell you how much you need and which type.
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Unread 11-24-2013, 10:23 AM   #13
Toreyjw1
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So I serviced the TC with mopar t case fluid, replaced the diff oil, and realized I have open diffs like I began to suspect. Diffs look really good, no abnormal wear, no metal.

After this, I realized one of the tires was a 235, not a 245 like the rest. I have only had the jeep a couple days. I swapped it with a matching 245, no change in binding. I did some research and called a t case company from California and spoke to a tech who rebuilds the nv247. He strongly believed my coupler has failed and the clutches in it are seized up. Also he believes the failure is due to the mis sized wheel as the diameter diameter difference equates out to about 4" circumfrence difference; a lot of wheel speed deference to.

He said the PC is a pretty easy thing to replace if you're half competent. Any thoughts?? ALSO, the front bind up slightly as well (experienced some skidding under steer and very low speed in slippery cond.)

Thanks for your opinions! I want to take care of this ASAP as I feel like it can be causing damage to other components
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Unread 11-24-2013, 11:18 AM   #14
ezflip
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toreyjw1 View Post
So I serviced the TC with mopar t case fluid, replaced the diff oil, and realized I have open diffs like I began to suspect. Diffs look really good, no abnormal wear, no metal.

After this, I realized one of the tires was a 235, not a 245 like the rest. I have only had the jeep a couple days. I swapped it with a matching 245, no change in binding. I did some research and called a t case company from California and spoke to a tech who rebuilds the nv247. He strongly believed my coupler has failed and the clutches in it are seized up. Also he believes the failure is due to the mis sized wheel as the diameter diameter difference equates out to about 4" circumfrence difference; a lot of wheel speed deference to.

He said the PC is a pretty easy thing to replace if you're half competent. Any thoughts?? ALSO, the front bind up slightly as well (experienced some skidding under steer and very low speed in slippery cond.)

Thanks for your opinions! I want to take care of this ASAP as I feel like it can be causing damage to other components
That different tire size will definitely do it. The pc is fairly easy to replace, but it's ungodly expensive. You can replace the entire transfer case for 1/5 the price of just the pc. Most people look into swapping in a 242 case at this point since it's cheaper, less prone to failure, and gives you more 4wd options.
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Unread 11-24-2013, 02:04 PM   #15
Toreyjw1
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Very interesting. How is that swapping out? Any retrofitting? Or is just a direct bolt up? And what about the selector lever? Mine currently has just 4wd all time neutral and 4lo

And regarding the PC and its expense, it seems as if they're about 500? What's the cost of a 242? And can it be 4wd and used on pavement? I intend using it this winter w/ ice for work. My company is a service company and snow around these parts halts everything. So well be mobile.

Regards!
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