How to reset "Brake Warning" Light? - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
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post #16 of 35 Old 08-08-2010, 09:33 PM
earthquake5683
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I tried this tonight. It failed for me. This is what I did.

1. Have 2nd person hold brake pedal.
2. Open Front left bleeder screw. Tighten screw.
3. Started jeep engine
3. Slowly opened rear left bleeder screw..Really slow...a little at a time. light never went out
4. Tried again.
5. drank a few beers...gave up for the night.

My front wheels will not turn freely (when on jacks) right after I take it for a test drive. Like the calipers are locking up. But if I bleed the pressure off they are okay until I drive again. I'm thinking too much pressure is being sent to the front brakes and not enough to the rear....?

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post #17 of 35 Old 08-09-2010, 02:29 PM
lipripper
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Haynes manual:
If air has found its way into the hydrolic control unit, the entire system must be manually bled, the with a DRB scan tool, then manually again.
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post #18 of 35 Old 08-09-2010, 05:52 PM
vvreddy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lipripper View Post
Haynes manual:
If air has found its way into the hydrolic control unit, the entire system must be manually bled, the with a DRB scan tool, then manually again.
What he said. Sounds like you let the reservoir run dry and air has got into the system. That is probably why it is locking up - the air expands when it gets hot which has the same result as pressing on the brakes.
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post #19 of 35 Old 08-09-2010, 06:05 PM
lipripper
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Seriously consider spending the $25 on a repair manual. Forums are a great way to share information, but not everbody is right...all the time. I had a 01 Tacoma, and when I wanted to swap out the CV axles, I read on a few forums that you only torque the axle bolt to 25lbs as not to damage the bearing. Well about 100 miles on the new cv the tire is wobbling back and forth. The bearing was shot. I bought a manual and the factory specs for torque said 225 ft/lbs. Big difference. Most people do their best to avoid sucking air in from the reservoir, so most people probably have not had this problem. The manual in BIG BOLD PRINT state what I said above in the brakes section. Good luck with the brakes. Keep us posted.
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post #20 of 35 Old 12-01-2011, 01:13 PM
jclaudii
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Has anyone else performed this procedure, my warning light is on and I want it to go out. I bled the breaks initially by having my wife push the pedals as I had to swap axles. My reservoir never went dry as I filled it to the top and swapped calipers quickly then bled to not risk getting air up into the ABS.

It would help me to know how the circuit is seperated so I know which to bleed to try and reset...I can try front left then right or front right/rear left....so many combinations. Thanks!
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post #21 of 35 Old 12-01-2011, 09:51 PM
earthquake5683
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jclaudii View Post
Has anyone else performed this procedure, my warning light is on and I want it to go out. I bled the breaks initially by having my wife push the pedals as I had to swap axles. My reservoir never went dry as I filled it to the top and swapped calipers quickly then bled to not risk getting air up into the ABS.

It would help me to know how the circuit is seperated so I know which to bleed to try and reset...I can try front left then right or front right/rear left....so many combinations. Thanks!
I was unsuccessful at reseting my light. I bled the brakes using the pressureized bleed method and the pump-pump-hold style. I took it down to just-brakes and 40 or 60 bucks later it was fixed. They bled them and called it a day. It's the balancing valve portion that causes the issue. I know this isn't much help, but it does to help you in making a choice of taking it in or not. Hope this helps ya brotha.
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post #22 of 35 Old 12-01-2011, 10:34 PM
ratmonkey
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Don't pump thr brakes when bleeding. A single stroke to the floor with the valve open, close valve, let up pedal, repeat.

'97 zj 5.2, some stuff, some other suff, and some things that even work sometimes.

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post #23 of 35 Old 12-21-2011, 09:26 PM
jclaudii
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well any info from a jeep mechanic may help. I need to reset this lamp. can I take it off and reset it manually and then rebled?
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post #24 of 35 Old 05-10-2017, 12:05 PM
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I'm in the same boat. Took it to a shop today and they claim the actual sensor went out...I'm having a hard time believing this, but I did take the reservoir off and clean it out with alcohol, so maybe that did something. They want $200 to fix, but I'm seeing the part for $6 at autozone. Trying to decide if it's worth the effort to fix the sensor or just have a shop bleed the brakes..

I shouldn't have gotten any air through the master cylinder, but it's possible I got some in the brake lines. Does the light only trigger if air gets in through the master cylinder? Brakes feel totally fine. Did some hard stops on the highway and nothing seemed out of place...

Oh yeah, my parking brake is shot too. Guessing it's the actual drums, but maybe the switch went out at the exact same time I bled my brakes!?!?!?!
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post #25 of 35 Old 05-11-2017, 12:38 PM
86cj74.2L
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There are a few things that can make the light come on.

The ebrake, the low level switch, and I'm pretty sure a switch in the proportion valve. Those float switches do go bad. Same as the ones in some coolant tanks. (My Saturn )
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post #26 of 35 Old 05-11-2017, 12:45 PM
N0tSure
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Well for $6 it's worth a shot. Suppose I need to remove the reservoir to replace?

Edit - looks like it just snaps in place. Wonder if fluid is going to pour out...We'll see on saturday.
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post #27 of 35 Old 05-11-2017, 12:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N0tSure
Well for $6 it's worth a shot. Suppose I need to remove the reservoir to replace?
something like that should be on YouTube. Any Chrysler product around your year should have the same sensor.

What's mopar want for the same sensor? If it's less than 20 I'd spring for the mopar sensor.

If you unplug it and light goes out on dash it's defiantly the smoking gun.
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post #28 of 35 Old 05-11-2017, 01:00 PM
N0tSure
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 86cj74.2L View Post
something like that should be on YouTube. Any Chrysler product around your year should have the same sensor.

What's mopar want for the same sensor? If it's less than 20 I'd spring for the mopar sensor.

If you unplug it and light goes out on dash it's defiantly the smoking gun.
Looks like it just snaps in and out. The light stays on when it's unplugged whcih is what's confusing me. I can understand why it would come on if it's unplugged though...I just don't know how it's programmed to work
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post #29 of 35 Old 05-11-2017, 01:10 PM
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Already bought the Duralast, but it looks like Mopar only wants $8.
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post #30 of 35 Old 05-11-2017, 02:05 PM
86cj74.2L
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N0tSure
Looks like it just snaps in and out. The light stays on when it's unplugged whcih is what's confusing me. I can understand why it would come on if it's unplugged though...I just don't know how it's programmed to work
if it's programmed to be fail safe then unplugging it won't clear light.

Fail safe means that Loss of power to sensor or sensor activation will result in a alarm. The PCM is looking for voltage on the sensor input for a "Normal" operation condition. When the float activates, the power to the PCM is interrupted and you get the alarm.

It's possible that during bleeding the pintle in the proportion valve shifted. Usually that doesn't happen. It so it may be a bugger to reset. Usually the pintle will self center. Although the CJ7 usually doesn't.
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