On my Jeep I have aftermarket wheels so I am able to access the main hub nut with the wheel still on.
Start by removing the cotter pin:
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Then the cap:
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And behind the cap is a spring (shown on left):
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Next, use your trusty 36mm socket to break that nut before you take off the wheel:
With the nut torqued to 175ft/lbs and rust/dirt seizing up the nut, it isn't a surprise that a cheater bar helps In this case it is my old tie rod.
Now jack up your axle:
And remove the wheel, place it under your sliders if you have them or under your hub in the event your Jeep falls off the jack, it won't crash onto the ground:
Next, remove the caliper bracket (2 x 18mm bolts) and hang it from the spring via wire or zip ties:
The bolt you're pointing to in the last one is the brake line. I wouldn't do that again. You'll need to bleed the brakes.
To pull the caliper, look at the bolt to the left and a smidge down from the one you're pointing to in your pic. That holds the caliper - also the one directly across the assembly from there, right next to the letter F.
A Haynes manual details this very well. You do have a Haynes manual, right?
Since you loosened the brake line and lose some fluid, you will need to bleed the brakes.
The flexible line is the ABS sensor cable - you can move that around. The metal line is the brake line. You should be able to fit a 3" extension attached to a socket (17mm or 18mm I believe) in there, then attach that to a ratchet.
okay thank you so much!
i got it all done now, and i wouldve spent way more money had not this thread made it look so easy!
i appreciate the time you took to take pictures and walk us through this.
Im still not finished because a brake pad fell out of my caliper and i cant find the spring that keeps it in :/
of course something like that is what would stop me from being able to finish...
Great write up. I will be swapping my D30 CV for HD D30 U's this weekend. I notice you didn't use an axle hammer (forgive me if the name is wrong) so the shaft should pressumably pull right out once the wheel, hub and calipers are off right? ANd is there anything special to mention about the caliper, rotor or pads such as compressing the pads back in before installation?
I have the space and tools, except the axle hammer thingy so I am hoping I can just go at it with a good ratchet set, spanner, and torque spanner?
You're thinking of a slide hammer I believe. It shouldn't be necessary at all.
Is a spanner a wrench?
Nothing special about compressing the pads, other than you'll need to do it if it is necessary
That's the one. Well I trust your word Arlo. YEs a spanner is a wrench, ha ha, lost in translation eh (Dam Brit)! Well I have a decent selection of tools, I will be grabbing a torque wrench and some axle stands today as I will be fitting my IRO 3.5" whilst I do the axle shafts too so I should be good to go.
Instead of using a slide hammer, what you can do is pull off the rotor and put it on backwards. Then thread on 2-3 lug nuts just a few threads. Now you have a 10lb slide hammer (only slides an inch or so), but is pretty successful as a poor-man's slide hammer.
OK, so I have just picked up a torque wrench and it only seems to go to around 165 ft lbs. (222 Newton Meters) so seen as the axles shaft should be torqued to 175ft lbs should I consider looking for another torque wrench or go as far as I can with this one then try for a touch more with a normal wrench?
OK. I saw a video about post #100 that inspired me to replace the bad CV joint in my '93 grand cherokee.
Take a look. I think mine must tie for most worn out CV. No bearings, no cage, nothing. I guess it went a bit too long.
Just figured out the viscous coupler in the transfer case does not like busted CV joint much as it seems to have failed recently. Hope repairing that can be done as DIY.
I honestly can not believe that Jeep Forum has not ran Haynes and Chilton out of business selling their crap manuals. This write is 100% or times or whatever you want to say than any Haynes manual could be.
I'm glad I saw this so I'm prepared for installing my Aussie Locker.
I'm sorry if this has been mentioned (I haven't sat down and read all 16 pages) but make sure everyone that uses a torque wrench go back the next week and re-tighten the axle nut. I did my wheel bearing with a torque wrench and a couple days later had inspection and that S.O.B. had already came loose.
Great writeup! I used this thread to help me replace both my front axles. I purchased new axles (L & R) from advance auto. Install was easy but my passenger side axle put up a fuss going in. I ended up knocking out the inner seal because of my impatience and had to take her to the dealer...$350 down the hole for that dumb move. The axle should slide right in almost to easily. If it fights, rotate a bit a try again. I replaced both bearings at the time to. After the new seal and some miles my passenger side was vibrating like crazy and ended up destroying the new bearing. I must have had 1/2 inch of play in the hub when I replaced it Took the 1 month old axle (now leaking grease) and the cooked bearing to advance and they replaced both under warranty except this time I opted for the national brand bearing. Went in much easier than the first time. Now the only complaint i have is a driveline vib under accel only. Both bearings have zero play. Anyone else have this after replacement? I also get some 30mph+ squealing from the drivers front to. Is this a bad bearing sign even with no bearing play? I have already upgraded my front propshaft to a 04 u-joint style.
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