How to replace an axle shaft and/or a wheel hub bearing assembly w/PICS! - Page 7 - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles
Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep Grand Cherokee & Commander Forums > WJ Grand Cherokee Forum > How to replace an axle shaft and/or a wheel hub bearing assembly w/PICS!

Bill Baird Motorsports DIY parts - NalinMFG.comFS: 2007-2013 Jeep Wrangler "HALO" Angel Eye KitFS: Wranger BRIGHT License Plate LED! Just $3! Great value

Reply
Unread 02-15-2009, 05:25 PM   #91
thehun13
Registered User
1993 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: High Desert/SoCal
Posts: 5
Thanks for the great write up....I never touched and axle before and was able to do a front brake job and replace my trashed CV joints with u-joints. All in all it took about 2 hours. The hub bolts were the hardest to remove, cant get a impact back there but a box end and a 5lb sledge works great...

thehun13 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02-16-2009, 08:43 PM   #92
jeepmanW11
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: red lion
Posts: 1
99 jeep cherokee cv joints

How do you change cv joints on 99 jeep grand cherokee? I was watching the 96 replacement and looks easy. Is it the same? Reading manual it says I have to measure the cv joint cup to cv boot end.5 - 39/64 inches. Need help.
jeepmanW11 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02-16-2009, 08:52 PM   #93
thudson331
Registered User
1999 WJ 
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Magnolia, Texas
Posts: 168
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepmanW11 View Post
How do you change cv joints on 99 jeep grand cherokee? I was watching the 96 replacement and looks easy. Is it the same? Reading manual it says I have to measure the cv joint cup to cv boot end.5 - 39/64 inches. Need help.
exactly like this thread shows
__________________
Good tattoos aren't cheap, Cheap tattoos aren't good!
thudson331 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02-16-2009, 09:02 PM   #94
jopolly3
Senior Member
 
jopolly3's Avatar
2013 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Natick, MA
Posts: 725
great write up... i did a few things this weekend that i thought might leave me needing this info, this makes me feel slightly more confident i could handle things
__________________
Joe

2013 JKU Rubicon 6spd: ARB Dana 44 covers F&R, Expedition One front bumper & swaybar skid, Hella driving lamps, JKS adjustable track bars F&R, MBRP SS off-road exhaust, OME HD springs and shocks, OME relocated SS, Rock Hard 4x4 gas tank skid, Rock Hard 4x4 oil pan skid, Rock Hard 4x4 rock sliders, Rock Hard 4x4 transfer case skid, Spidertrax wheel spacers, Superwinch LP8500 Gen 1

2002 Subaru WRX: Cobb intake, Mishimoto aluminum radiator, Kartboy short throw shifter and bushings

1960 CJ-6: Never ending project rig

Build Threads:

JKUR - http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f96/j...hread-1522982/

CJ6 - http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/jo...hread-1347975/

WJ - http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f197/...auren-1033184/




"BFG makes some good rubbers, if they sold condoms I'd buy them" -Owen Horner
jopolly3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02-16-2009, 09:57 PM   #95
ArloGuthroJeep
Mr. Hyde!
 
ArloGuthroJeep's Avatar
2004 WJ 
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 23,081
Only "difficult" part to this job can be breaking the 3 knuckle bolts, the hub nut, or pulling off the wheel bearing assembly from the knuckle. In all three cases...rust sucks
__________________
'04 WJ, 6" Clayton LA's, 242 SYE, 35" BFG MT KM2's, 4.56 gears, & D44a locked
'14 WK2 Limited w/5.7L, ORAI, & Tow Package
ArloGuthroJeep is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02-16-2009, 10:00 PM   #96
RickyZJ
Registered User
1996 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 373
This writeup helped me a ton

Also found these videos on youtube of the step by step replace of the cv axle on a 94 ZJ, if you need a little extra help

Part 1
Part 2
Part 3
__________________
1996 Grand Cherokee -- 4.5" IRO, 35's, Long Arms, so on and so forth.
RickyZJ is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02-17-2009, 01:16 AM   #97
SoCalDevyn
Registered User
1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Valencia, CA
Posts: 448
nice write up

ive had to replace both my left and right hubs after some good muddin
__________________
98 ZJ Limited 5.2, Blacked Out, 6.5" IRO Long Arm, 15x8 Pro Comp 97's, 35" MTZ's, Custom Front Bumper, Rusty's Disco's, KOR Light Bar, 8000K HID's, Magnaflow, CB, 5% Tint, System, TJ Gas Bezel, JKS Rear Trac Bar, Rusty's Front Trac Bar, KOR Stabilizer, Cold Air Intake, E-Fan, RCX Diff Guard, Clayton Brake Lines, MSD Ignition, Gen Right Louvers, Custom Sliders, IRO Belly Skid, Rigid Lights
SoCalDevyn is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02-17-2009, 06:37 AM   #98
YJdad
Registered User
1994 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Pekin, Illinois
Posts: 346
Quote:
Originally Posted by ArloGuthroJeep View Post
Only "difficult" part to this job can be breaking the 3 knuckle bolts, the hub nut, or pulling off the wheel bearing assembly from the knuckle. In all three cases...rust sucks

use the socket behind the hub if you have a buddy and watch your fingers!..this is actually easier than it looks..
__________________
94' YJ Stock 2.5L - tornado resistant up to 100 yards / BFG 30x9.5x15 / Herculiner / Stereo console - Currently parked for overhaul

98' ZJ GCL - Stock V8

75% of the world is covered by water, the rest is covered by Jeep!
YJdad is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 03-02-2009, 01:50 PM   #99
RichieW13
Registered User
1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Thousand Oaks, Ca.
Posts: 26
I replaced my hubs over the weekend. That ended up being a pretty easy project. I had one hub bolt that was difficult to remove. Once I bought a longer breaker bar, it broke free pretty easily. I was able to do the second hub in less than an hour.

The only problem is the grinding noise from the front end is still there! The old hubs seemed to be in decent shape. So now there is either something wrong with something in the axle assembly or it's just the natural sounds that come from having an AWD front end.
__________________
1998 Grand Cherokee 5.2L V8
14.1 MPG :(
RichieW13 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 03-02-2009, 02:21 PM   #100
CrazyWalnut13
Registered User
2000 WJ 
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Bozeman, MT
Posts: 1,282
Quote:
Originally Posted by RichieW13 View Post
I replaced my hubs over the weekend. That ended up being a pretty easy project. I had one hub bolt that was difficult to remove. Once I bought a longer breaker bar, it broke free pretty easily. I was able to do the second hub in less than an hour.

The only problem is the grinding noise from the front end is still there! The old hubs seemed to be in decent shape. So now there is either something wrong with something in the axle assembly or it's just the natural sounds that come from having an AWD front end.
I'd check out your CV joints on the front DS.
__________________
Zak
Formerly Default Jeeper #13
2000 WJ Limited 4.7 with stuff. Look left for the deets.
CrazyWalnut13 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 03-16-2009, 04:40 PM   #101
chrisbranham
Registered User
1999 WJ 
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 4
A 99 WJ with Quadra-drive would need the Vari-Lok axles correct? I am replacing the left one.
chrisbranham is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 03-19-2009, 07:55 PM   #102
hfjeff
Registered User
1995 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Waupun, Wisconsin
Posts: 772
Son's first Jeep and I have to fix it already

Jumping over from the CJ forum where I gained years of knowledge from many great fellow jeepers.

Got my son his first vehicle: 1996 GCL with the 5.2 and 116K miles. Brought home and discovered the CV boots were torn in half and joints full of gunk. That would explain the ticking or cracking when backing up with the wheel turned. Panicked a bit at first until I searched and found this thread. If I built my CJ7 from scratch including rebuilding the transmission and t-case, I should be able to handle the front shaft swap. They are fairly cheap ($54 at the local Napa) and this thread will be a great help.

Looking forward to learning a lot more from the GC forum. Have several more repairs to make. Thanks.
__________________
MINE: 1995 YJ/2.5L/115K/Completely Stock
MY DAD's: 1978 CJ7/ AMC 360 .030" over/ Motorcraft 2100/ Edelbrock Performer/ Proform HEI Ignition/ Hedman Headers with dual Flowmaster 40's/ Taurus Fan/ FK-35 Control/ Painless Harness/ Rebuilt T150 & Dana 20/ 4" Lift/ 31" Procomp Mud Terrains/ All Fiberglass. (SOLD)
MY BROTHER's: 1996 ZJ Limited/5.2L/117K & Completely Stock.(SOLD)
hfjeff is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 03-19-2009, 08:39 PM   #103
ArloGuthroJeep
Mr. Hyde!
 
ArloGuthroJeep's Avatar
2004 WJ 
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 23,081
Good luck Jeff, hopefully you don't have too much rust on that ZJ...
__________________
'04 WJ, 6" Clayton LA's, 242 SYE, 35" BFG MT KM2's, 4.56 gears, & D44a locked
'14 WK2 Limited w/5.7L, ORAI, & Tow Package
ArloGuthroJeep is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 03-19-2009, 09:13 PM   #104
xJoshxx
Web Wheeler
 
xJoshxx's Avatar
2012 WK 
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Burlington, Kentucky
Posts: 5,500
Quote:
Originally Posted by thehun13 View Post
Thanks for the great write up....I never touched and axle before and was able to do a front brake job and replace my trashed CV joints with u-joints. All in all it took about 2 hours. The hub bolts were the hardest to remove, cant get a impact back there but a box end and a 5lb sledge works great...
when in doubt BFH
__________________
Interested in Amsoil? Sold4" Hybrid lift TeraFlex coils IRO Adjustable LA's Jks tracbar 1.25spidertrax spacers 265/75/16 Dura-tracs
Quote:
Originally Posted by moPowered View Post
The SRt-8's are a liberty design.
2011 WK2 ORA2
2012 WK2 SRT8
xJoshxx is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 03-21-2009, 07:31 PM   #105
hfjeff
Registered User
1995 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Waupun, Wisconsin
Posts: 772
One down, one to go. Old woman winter is not kind to chassis and underbodies of vehicles in WI. My trouble isn't that I don't have the right tools or can't get the bolts out. My problem is the rust. It took about 3 hours to get the drivers side done. With all the bolts removed I could not get the hub off. After an hour and a half with a chisel and heavy duty putty knife, it came off. The assembly was cake.

Now on to the passenger side. I have all the bolts out including the hub bolts and the rotor or hub won't come off. Used half a can of PB Blaster and a hammer and pry bar and it won't budge. Any suggestions?

__________________
MINE: 1995 YJ/2.5L/115K/Completely Stock
MY DAD's: 1978 CJ7/ AMC 360 .030" over/ Motorcraft 2100/ Edelbrock Performer/ Proform HEI Ignition/ Hedman Headers with dual Flowmaster 40's/ Taurus Fan/ FK-35 Control/ Painless Harness/ Rebuilt T150 & Dana 20/ 4" Lift/ 31" Procomp Mud Terrains/ All Fiberglass. (SOLD)
MY BROTHER's: 1996 ZJ Limited/5.2L/117K & Completely Stock.(SOLD)
hfjeff is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply
Thread Tools


Suggested Threads





Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.