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How to replace an axle shaft and/or a wheel hub bearing assembly w/PICS!

226K views 340 replies 153 participants last post by  jetnjeff29r 
#1 ·
This post has been rewritten and the images have been recovered. Here is the new link:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/archive-arloguthrojeep-s-axle-shaft-wheel-bearing-assembly-write-up-3684209/

After a day of fun you Jeep may look like this:


On my Jeep I have aftermarket wheels so I am able to access the main hub nut with the wheel still on.

Start by removing the cotter pin:
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Then the cap:
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And behind the cap is a spring (shown on left):
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Next, use your trusty 36mm socket to break that nut before you take off the wheel:


With the nut torqued to 175ft/lbs and rust/dirt seizing up the nut, it isn't a surprise that a cheater bar helps:D In this case it is my old tie rod.


Now jack up your axle:


And remove the wheel, place it under your sliders if you have them or under your hub in the event your Jeep falls off the jack, it won't crash onto the ground:


Next, remove the caliper bracket (2 x 18mm bolts) and hang it from the spring via wire or zip ties:
 
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#86 ·
Actually, removal of them wasn't a biggie as I had just done the brakes a year ago. Unfortunately, I musta (or the PO, but most likely me) cranked on those caliper bolts too tightly. Should be all set to reassemble the rest tomorrow after work. Anyway, great writeup and the pics help quite a bit for a guy who's never replaced an axle shaft or a unit bearing-
 
#87 ·
Finally got around to the passenger side a week ago and bought a set of brandy-new Timken hub assemblies. One of the bolt holes in the NEW hub assembly was stripped. Had to return it and buy a different brand (I went with National).

So far, all is good with new shafts and new hub assemblies. For the brake caliper stripped bolt hole, I ended up taking the caliper to a local machine shop for them to re-tap and insert a helicoil. Everything is back together and running great-
 
#89 ·
the nut on the ZJ is a little bigger , the Mic tells me it`s a 36 mm , I use a 1-7/16 socket , it`s not a tight fit but works . Yes , the nut has to come off

Nice write up Ryan , if I had a $ for every time it was used I`d be on LA`s
 
#90 ·
36mm is correct - the hub nut holds the axle shaft to the unit bearing, so you absolutely have to remove it.

An impact gun (even the Harbor Freight "emergency" 12v impact gun does the trick) is very helpful.
 
#91 ·
Thanks for the great write up....I never touched and axle before and was able to do a front brake job and replace my trashed CV joints with u-joints. All in all it took about 2 hours. The hub bolts were the hardest to remove, cant get a impact back there but a box end and a 5lb sledge works great...:2thumbsup:
 
#94 ·
great write up... i did a few things this weekend that i thought might leave me needing this info, this makes me feel slightly more confident i could handle things :2thumbsup:
 
#97 ·
nice write up :thumbsup:

ive had to replace both my left and right hubs after some good muddin
 
#99 ·
I replaced my hubs over the weekend. That ended up being a pretty easy project. I had one hub bolt that was difficult to remove. Once I bought a longer breaker bar, it broke free pretty easily. I was able to do the second hub in less than an hour.

The only problem is the grinding noise from the front end is still there! The old hubs seemed to be in decent shape. So now there is either something wrong with something in the axle assembly or it's just the natural sounds that come from having an AWD front end. :(
 
#102 ·
Son's first Jeep and I have to fix it already

Jumping over from the CJ forum where I gained years of knowledge from many great fellow jeepers.

Got my son his first vehicle: 1996 GCL with the 5.2 and 116K miles. Brought home and discovered the CV boots were torn in half and joints full of gunk. That would explain the ticking or cracking when backing up with the wheel turned. Panicked a bit at first until I searched and found this thread. If I built my CJ7 from scratch including rebuilding the transmission and t-case, I should be able to handle the front shaft swap. They are fairly cheap ($54 at the local Napa) and this thread will be a great help.

Looking forward to learning a lot more from the GC forum. Have several more repairs to make. Thanks.
 
#105 ·
One down, one to go. Old woman winter is not kind to chassis and underbodies of vehicles in WI. My trouble isn't that I don't have the right tools or can't get the bolts out. My problem is the rust. It took about 3 hours to get the drivers side done. With all the bolts removed I could not get the hub off. After an hour and a half with a chisel and heavy duty putty knife, it came off. The assembly was cake.

Now on to the passenger side. I have all the bolts out including the hub bolts and the rotor or hub won't come off. Used half a can of PB Blaster and a hammer and pry bar and it won't budge. Any suggestions?

 
#106 ·
U Trying to keep the rotor? All else fails BFH. use a rubber one if trying to keep the rotor
 
#107 ·
Good point. The rotors are due for replacement as well as pads, but he just bought the thing and are trying to just get it road worthy (changing all fluids and critical repairs for now). I will try a bigger hammer such as a 3lb. rather than just a 20oz. framing hammer. Worst case I need to buy a new rotor.
 
#109 ·
Even though rotors are sold individually, it's best to replace them in pairs.
 
#113 ·
Mission Accomplished!! A 3lb rubber mallet and about 5 whacks and she popped off. Back together and on the road. My son only has his temps but he can't get enough of driving his "new" wheels. A lot better than what I was driving at 16 (back in 1980 something).



Thanks for the help.
 
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