How to replace an axle shaft and/or a wheel hub bearing assembly w/PICS! - Page 20 - JeepForum.com
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post #286 of 340 Old 04-12-2013, 11:20 AM
n666z
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So I did this and changed my front diff gear oil. Now my jeep is leaking the new gear oil out of the passenger side of the axle. You think my inner axle seal on my passenger side is shot and spewing out fluid or I overfilled the diff and the extra is coming out?? How much of a pain in the *** is the front inner axle seal?

Could this really be as simple as the front diff being overfilled with gear oil?? it's been about 4 weeks now since I did this and no new fluid is leaking out now but I haven't checked to see if it's low or empty yet?

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post #287 of 340 Old 04-12-2013, 11:57 AM
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It sounds like you may have hit the inner seal with the shaft when you were putting it in.

That seal is not as easy to replace as the shafts are unfortunately.

You really can't overfill the diff. You pull the plug and pump in gear oil until it reaches the bottom of the hole.

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post #288 of 340 Old 04-12-2013, 12:32 PM
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post #289 of 340 Old 04-13-2013, 09:52 AM
n666z
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Well I do remember plugging it while it was still spewing out of the fill hole that's the only reason I ask. How long do the inner seals go for under normal use? I have 124,000 miles on them you think it's time to change it anyhow?
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post #290 of 340 Old 04-14-2013, 04:01 PM
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They can go 10k miles, they can go 300k miles. If you whack them with an axle shaft, they can go right away.

You filled it correctly, just bad luck with the seal in my opinion.

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post #291 of 340 Old 04-15-2013, 12:45 PM
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I’ve got an issue with my passenger side CV Axle on a 1999 WJ with QD. I had it replaced at a local mechanic because of a torn boot. Went off-roading the next day and all was well until going up steep inclines under power, I heard a “clunk, clunk, clunk”at seemingly random, but frequent times. Usually at low speeds, but always under load. Took it back to the mechanic who said I needed shocks and ball joints. So I bit the bullet and replaced the ball joints and shocks myself and at the same time swapped in a passenger side axle from Autozone. All was just fine – on and off road – for about 500 miles. Now the clunk, clunk, clunk is back, but only at high speeds (above 60 mph) and under load, like passing. The clunk, clunk, clunk is about 2 to 4 timesa second. One more thing. Both CV joint boots (from my mechanic and fromAutoZone) touch the axle tube when turning. Also, I noticed the diff’s oil seal rides on the very edge of the polished area for the mechanic’s axle (I bet it does the same on the Autozone axle too).

Any idea what could be causing the clunk, clunk, clunk noise? Could this be a case of non-OEM axles not fitting my car? Or since I don’t know if my mechanic replaced the front diff gear oil or not, if the diff oil was added without friction modifies, could that cause the clunk, clunk, clunk noise? I’m at a loss what to do next. I hate just replacing parts.
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post #292 of 340 Old 04-16-2013, 08:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ldeforrest
if the diff oil was added without friction modifies.
This is what I would guess...just a guess though

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post #293 of 340 Old 11-23-2013, 07:30 PM
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Very cool thread; thanks Arlo et al. Everything came off fine EXCEPT the hub. Ended up using the air chisel and then needed the air grinder to smooth the mating surfaces down. Another issue was the Ebay part was too long...thank God for the local Auto part store.

Slathered surfaces with anti sieze and took time to clean the bolts and threads using this>>>

She turns butter smooth now =)

Last edited by roybatty; 11-27-2013 at 06:46 AM.
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post #294 of 340 Old 12-02-2013, 07:26 PM
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Theres no mentoin of what the 2 18mm caliper bolts should be torqued to.
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post #295 of 340 Old 12-03-2013, 02:34 PM
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post #296 of 340 Old 12-03-2013, 03:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StPaul59 View Post
Theres no mentoin of what the 2 18mm caliper bolts should be torqued to.
'Notgonnafallthehelloff nM of torque'

Honestly, I've always just cranked them till they were tight. Some will probably scold me for this, but I haven't had any failure of the bolts yet.

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post #297 of 340 Old 12-03-2013, 06:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mycreativename View Post

'Notgonnafallthehelloff nM of torque'

Honestly, I've always just cranked them till they were tight. Some will probably scold me for this, but I haven't had any failure of the bolts yet.
Ah yes, the German method of gutentight

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It is what Jeeples has stated.
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post #298 of 340 Old 12-03-2013, 06:03 PM
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post #299 of 340 Old 12-31-2013, 02:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roybatty View Post
I am not sure if this is the for the WJs, but I think the torque specification for the 2-18mm caliper slider bolts for ZJ is as follows:

Brake Caliper Mounting Bolts - 7-15 ft.lbs.
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post #300 of 340 Old 01-01-2014, 11:07 AM
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When I started searching the forums, I didn't realize this was in the WJ forum, but it is a very helpful write-up that I used for replacing the driver side CV axle on my 1998 ZJ. Getting the 3 hub bolts broke loose and the hub/bearing broke free were the biggest challenges for me. I highly recommend PB Blasting every bolt, nut, and mating surface several times over 2 or 3 days before you start. This is probably a 15 minute job if you don't have any rust. Thank you.

I found all of the following ZJ torque specifications for this task in another thread and were stated to have been taken from a 93-98 Jeep Grand Cherokee Factory Service Manual for 4.0L I6 and 5.2L V8:

Lug Nut - 109-150 Nm / 80-110 ft.lbs.
Hub/Knuckle Mounting Bolts - 102 Nm / 75 ft.lbs
Hub Nut - 237 Nm / 175 ft.lbs.
Brake Caliper Mounting Bolts - 7-15 ft.lbs.
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