So I did this and changed my front diff gear oil. Now my jeep is leaking the new gear oil out of the passenger side of the axle. You think my inner axle seal on my passenger side is shot and spewing out fluid or I overfilled the diff and the extra is coming out?? How much of a pain in the *** is the front inner axle seal?
Could this really be as simple as the front diff being overfilled with gear oil?? it's been about 4 weeks now since I did this and no new fluid is leaking out now but I haven't checked to see if it's low or empty yet?
Well I do remember plugging it while it was still spewing out of the fill hole that's the only reason I ask. How long do the inner seals go for under normal use? I have 124,000 miles on them you think it's time to change it anyhow?
I’ve got an issue with my passenger side CV Axle on a 1999 WJ with QD. I had it replaced at a local mechanic because of a torn boot. Went off-roading the next day and all was well until going up steep inclines under power, I heard a “clunk, clunk, clunk”at seemingly random, but frequent times. Usually at low speeds, but always under load. Took it back to the mechanic who said I needed shocks and ball joints. So I bit the bullet and replaced the ball joints and shocks myself and at the same time swapped in a passenger side axle from Autozone. All was just fine – on and off road – for about 500 miles. Now the clunk, clunk, clunk is back, but only at high speeds (above 60 mph) and under load, like passing. The clunk, clunk, clunk is about 2 to 4 timesa second. One more thing. Both CV joint boots (from my mechanic and fromAutoZone) touch the axle tube when turning. Also, I noticed the diff’s oil seal rides on the very edge of the polished area for the mechanic’s axle (I bet it does the same on the Autozone axle too).
Any idea what could be causing the clunk, clunk, clunk noise? Could this be a case of non-OEM axles not fitting my car? Or since I don’t know if my mechanic replaced the front diff gear oil or not, if the diff oil was added without friction modifies, could that cause the clunk, clunk, clunk noise? I’m at a loss what to do next. I hate just replacing parts.
Very cool thread; thanks Arlo et al. Everything came off fine EXCEPT the hub. Ended up using the air chisel and then needed the air grinder to smooth the mating surfaces down. Another issue was the Ebay part was too long...thank God for the local Auto part store.
Slathered surfaces with anti sieze and took time to clean the bolts and threads using this>>>
Theres no mentoin of what the 2 18mm caliper bolts should be torqued to.
'Notgonnafallthehelloff nM of torque'
Honestly, I've always just cranked them till they were tight. Some will probably scold me for this, but I haven't had any failure of the bolts yet.
99' WJ, 2.5" Rusty's, Bilstein 5100's, JKS TrackBar, Moog SuperTrailBoss
"With enough fabbing, time & $, it's certainly possible.
That being said, it's like boinkin' your sister...just because you can, doesn't mean you should." - Double E
When I started searching the forums, I didn't realize this was in the WJ forum, but it is a very helpful write-up that I used for replacing the driver side CV axle on my 1998 ZJ. Getting the 3 hub bolts broke loose and the hub/bearing broke free were the biggest challenges for me. I highly recommend PB Blasting every bolt, nut, and mating surface several times over 2 or 3 days before you start. This is probably a 15 minute job if you don't have any rust. Thank you.
I found all of the following ZJ torque specifications for this task in another thread and were stated to have been taken from a 93-98 Jeep Grand Cherokee Factory Service Manual for 4.0L I6 and 5.2L V8: