How to replace an axle shaft and/or a wheel hub bearing assembly w/PICS! - Page 11 - JeepForum.com

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post #151 of 340 Old 02-01-2010, 12:33 PM Thread Starter
ArloGuthroJeep
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Yeah the replacement should be the exact same length as the original one...so when you pull the shaft compare them at that point. IIRC there is about a 1" difference between the two. I believe QD shafts are slightly shorter.


'04 WJ, 6" Clayton LA's, 242 SYE, 35" BFG MT KM2's, 4.56 gears, & D44a locked
'14 WK2 Limited w/5.7L, ORAI, & Tow Package
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post #152 of 340 Old 02-01-2010, 12:34 PM
00JGC00
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Ok cool. Thx!

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post #153 of 340 Old 02-01-2010, 12:39 PM
adam03wj
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done this plenty of times! never on my jeep though, (mostly wranglers, few pickup trucks) but glad to know if i need to it's real easy. question though, i know on wranglers and some other jeeps the pad snaps into the caliper which makes things real easy when you slip it over the rotor. Is it the same for the WJ? Recently did a brake job on a mazda b2200 and it was a pain in the ***. thanks in advance arlo!
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post #154 of 340 Old 02-28-2010, 12:51 PM
00JGC00
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Another question. What kind of poundage would an impact wrench need to get that axle nut off?

"The" Matt | '00 Limited WJ | "The White Wolf" aka "Willow" aka "Cool Whip" aka "Sweet 'N Low" aka "AKA"
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post #155 of 340 Old 02-28-2010, 02:21 PM
jtsjeep99
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The 3 hub bolts are the biggest PITA I've ever dealt with. I had to heat them up with a torch to melt the large amount of thread locker the factory used then they came out.

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post #156 of 340 Old 02-28-2010, 02:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 00JGC00 View Post
Another question. What kind of poundage would an impact wrench need to get that axle nut off?
Theoretically, it's held on with 175lb/ft of torque. But that number can grow immensely depending on rust and scale. I used my impact gun on my '99 and it zipped right off. I think I did let some PB Blaster soak in there for a few minutes beforehand-

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post #157 of 340 Old 02-28-2010, 03:17 PM
sdowney717
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I heated the nut almost red hot with an oxy-acetylene torch and a small tip so the heat stayed mostly on the nut.
Let it cool some and PB Blasted it. Then it came right off.

I then cleaned up the shafts, ended up scraping scrubbing them clean and baked them in an oven at 500 degrees.
I then JB welded the shaft to keep down the rust and replaced the u joint.
I greased it all well when putting it back together.

If you want jb weld to speed up the cure to an hour or less, simply heat the part you put it on to around 120 to 140 degrees.
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post #158 of 340 Old 02-28-2010, 04:07 PM
00JGC00
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The impact wrench I got can do 240 lbs I think and I got a can of pb blaster as well. I'm probably going to be tackling this in the next week or two. I want to do it but keep procrastinating because I'm afraid of something going wrong . I just need to man up and get 'er done.

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post #159 of 340 Old 02-28-2010, 04:42 PM
SplitNail
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Its super simple. It was the first thing I have ever done to my jeep. I was shocked how easy it was. Just soak the bolts on PB Blast or some liquid wrench and they should come right off.

1999 WJ 4.7L V8, 242 TC, Front Aussie Locker, 4 Inch RC X-Series lift, 17x8 w/ 4.5BS Black Rock Vipers, 285/70/R17 BFG KM2's, All AMSOIL Synthetic Fluids

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post #160 of 340 Old 03-06-2010, 08:31 AM
00JGC00
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Today is the today! Wish me luck!

"The" Matt | '00 Limited WJ | "The White Wolf" aka "Willow" aka "Cool Whip" aka "Sweet 'N Low" aka "AKA"
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post #161 of 340 Old 04-10-2010, 06:24 PM
kjopen
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Great write-up! I followed this today when fitting my new drive shaft - excellent, many thanks.

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post #162 of 340 Old 05-17-2010, 10:07 PM
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well i just finished the right cv shaft.. those 3 bolts were a PITA, and the hub was seized up real good too.. used A LOT of PB Blaster.

Im not sure if anyone wrote about doing this (i didnt read 10 pages of replies), but to remove those 3 bolts without a torch, i proped the base of the handle of my wrench on the jack and pumped until it was fully extended.. then i readjusted the wrench and repeated.
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post #163 of 340 Old 05-18-2010, 07:09 AM
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Just a tip for those that do this - use anti-seize on all bolts as well as the lip of the unit bearing. Makes the next time a whole lot easier.

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post #164 of 340 Old 05-18-2010, 07:33 PM
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Awesome write up, just wondering why you didn't switch to u joint shafts? I'm just waiting until i blow another CV and them I'm getting Ujointed shafts.

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post #165 of 340 Old 05-18-2010, 08:16 PM Thread Starter
ArloGuthroJeep
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Midnightluckey View Post
Awesome write up, just wondering why you didn't switch to u joint shafts? I'm just waiting until i blow another CV and them I'm getting Ujointed shafts.
Find me cheap U-joint shafts for a WJ

'04 WJ, 6" Clayton LA's, 242 SYE, 35" BFG MT KM2's, 4.56 gears, & D44a locked
'14 WK2 Limited w/5.7L, ORAI, & Tow Package
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