How to replace an axle shaft and/or a wheel hub bearing assembly w/PICS! - JeepForum.com
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Unread 02-19-2007, 09:05 AM   #1
ArloGuthroJeep
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How to replace an axle shaft and/or a wheel hub bearing assembly w/PICS!

After a day of fun you Jeep may look like this:


On my Jeep I have aftermarket wheels so I am able to access the main hub nut with the wheel still on.

Start by removing the cotter pin:


Then the cap:


And behind the cap is a spring (shown on left):


Next, use your trusty 36mm socket to break that nut before you take off the wheel:


With the nut torqued to 175ft/lbs and rust/dirt seizing up the nut, it isn't a surprise that a cheater bar helps In this case it is my old tie rod.


Now jack up your axle:


And remove the wheel, place it under your sliders if you have them or under your hub in the event your Jeep falls off the jack, it won't crash onto the ground:


Next, remove the caliper bracket (2 x 18mm bolts) and hang it from the spring via wire or zip ties:


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'04 WJ, 6" Clayton LA's, 242 SYE, 35" BFG MT KM2's, 4.56 gears, & D44a locked
'14 WK2 Limited w/5.7L, ORAI, & Tow Package
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Unread 02-19-2007, 09:05 AM   #2
ArloGuthroJeep
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Next, on the back side of the knuckle there are three bolts. They require a 12pt 13mm socket to remove them and can be stuck on there pretty good as well. The first one is at the top, then the other two are on the lower left and lower right (imagine a triangle):

At this point you can remove the hub. In my case the outer axle shaft came out with it since I blew up the joint:

This leaves you with steering knuckle, minus the outer axle shaft:

Remove the inner axle shaft and replace:

When putting everything back together there isn't anything special to do.
  • Torque the 3 12 pt 13mm hub bolts to 75 ft/lbs.
  • Torque the main 36mm hub nut to 175 ft/lbs.
Tricks/suggestions:
  • If you don't have a wheel where you can get easy access to the big hub nut to break it, remove thw wheel, and then have someone apply the brake while you loosen the nut.
  • Some of the ABS cables get in the way, just remove them from the bracketry and push them to the side when getting to the hub bolts.
  • If available, be sure to use PB Blaster on the bolts/nuts if they haven't been removed in a while. Last thing you want to do is snap a bolt!
  • My only other hint to this procedure is that it is easier to get to some of the bolts if you turn the wheel to either side.
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'04 WJ, 6" Clayton LA's, 242 SYE, 35" BFG MT KM2's, 4.56 gears, & D44a locked
'14 WK2 Limited w/5.7L, ORAI, & Tow Package

Last edited by ArloGuthroJeep; 02-19-2007 at 07:06 PM..
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Unread 02-19-2007, 09:05 AM   #3
ArloGuthroJeep
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Ok, I installed a new axle shaft today. After Napa shipped in an axle with busted tone rings, I picked up a remanufactured unit for $116 after tax. New units are cheaper then remanufactured units (go figure) but they couldn't get a new one until Thursday and work doesn't like me working from home all the time

New axle shaft:


Review what we have here to put back on, Cotter pin, castle washer, spring washer, axle-->hub nut, washer, 3 hub nuts, and a socket that doesn't belong in the picture. What is missing? The two bolts holding on the caliper bracket to the knuckle.


When you slide in the new axle, make sure the splines are clean (as they go into the diff and we want to keep that fluid clean), and try not to let it touch the inside of the axle tube much since it is dirty in there.


Toss on the hub and bolt it back up, remember these three bolts require 75 ft/lbs of torque.


Install rotor and brake caliper:


Then reinstall the tire and torque hub-->axle nut to 175ft/lbs:
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'04 WJ, 6" Clayton LA's, 242 SYE, 35" BFG MT KM2's, 4.56 gears, & D44a locked
'14 WK2 Limited w/5.7L, ORAI, & Tow Package

Last edited by ArloGuthroJeep; 02-19-2007 at 07:06 PM..
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Unread 02-19-2007, 01:31 PM   #4
H3RESQ
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Great writeup. I've had to do this so many times
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First I sit and watch. Then I stir the pot!...................................01 4.7 Rockkrawler 6.5 w/37 Krawlers on Allied Monster beadlocks, Auto, Atlas 3.8, 35 spline ARB'd 9 inch rear, ARB'd Piece-o-**** 30 front, etc.

If you have a "It's a jeep thing" sticker then YOU don't understand!!!
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Unread 02-19-2007, 07:07 PM   #5
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Added install procedure...
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'04 WJ, 6" Clayton LA's, 242 SYE, 35" BFG MT KM2's, 4.56 gears, & D44a locked
'14 WK2 Limited w/5.7L, ORAI, & Tow Package
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Unread 02-19-2007, 09:09 PM   #6
H3RESQ
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Bump a de Bump for a great thread.

ARLO. This thread is what got me motivated to do my new seals today.

P.S. In the review of parts for re-install you forgot the 2 18mm bolts for the caliper.
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First I sit and watch. Then I stir the pot!...................................01 4.7 Rockkrawler 6.5 w/37 Krawlers on Allied Monster beadlocks, Auto, Atlas 3.8, 35 spline ARB'd 9 inch rear, ARB'd Piece-o-**** 30 front, etc.

If you have a "It's a jeep thing" sticker then YOU don't understand!!!
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Unread 02-19-2007, 09:16 PM   #7
ArloGuthroJeep
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Glad I could motivate you to spend money & wrench
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'04 WJ, 6" Clayton LA's, 242 SYE, 35" BFG MT KM2's, 4.56 gears, & D44a locked
'14 WK2 Limited w/5.7L, ORAI, & Tow Package
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Unread 02-19-2007, 09:17 PM   #8
Nick ZJ
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Yep, I did this the other day as well. No fun. Especially that bolt in between the knuckle and the rotor. To hell with that one.
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Unread 02-19-2007, 09:31 PM   #9
GRDCHRKE555
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick ZJ
Yep, I did this the other day as well. No fun. Especially that bolt in between the knuckle and the rotor. To hell with that one.
i know exactly what you mean . hah. when i changed my brakes back in september i was on one side while my friend.. who should know more then me.. did the other side. he thought had to take off that big arse nut to get the rotor off so he went at it with air ratched/torque.. w.e ya call it for like an hour and found that after finally getting it off he just wasted tons of time. he said hes never had more trouble with taking off a nut before. hahahaha
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Unread 02-19-2007, 09:35 PM   #10
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This should be sticked somewhere or put in the Jeep FAQ thread

Great Post
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Unread 02-19-2007, 09:39 PM   #11
ArloGuthroJeep
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It is in the FAQ and my WJ Suspension thread and I submitted it to the Tech Articles section...
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'04 WJ, 6" Clayton LA's, 242 SYE, 35" BFG MT KM2's, 4.56 gears, & D44a locked
'14 WK2 Limited w/5.7L, ORAI, & Tow Package
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Unread 02-19-2007, 09:42 PM   #12
BigItalianBeast
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this should def come in handy this week. 2 new axle shafts are on their way. thanks ryan!
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Unread 02-19-2007, 09:42 PM   #13
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Hats off to you my man ! Changed the joints on the road! Something I would never do, you make it look so easy cant wait to bust mine so I can fix it like that LOL!


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Unread 02-19-2007, 09:45 PM   #14
ArloGuthroJeep
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Once you do it once, the second time takes ~20-30 minutes to replace an axle shaft...less time if the bolts break easily.
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'04 WJ, 6" Clayton LA's, 242 SYE, 35" BFG MT KM2's, 4.56 gears, & D44a locked
'14 WK2 Limited w/5.7L, ORAI, & Tow Package
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Unread 02-19-2007, 09:47 PM   #15
H3RESQ
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Ok just something to throw in there. I bought extra bearing assemble's to make trail repair easier. This is how I carry my spare's.
notice the hub assemble already installed. Just take off wheel. remove (3) 13 mm bolts. (2) 18mm bolts and bam. New shaft. just keep wheeling.
Note: The stock cv is just a comparison shot for something else. My spare is the u-joint upgrade one.

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First I sit and watch. Then I stir the pot!...................................01 4.7 Rockkrawler 6.5 w/37 Krawlers on Allied Monster beadlocks, Auto, Atlas 3.8, 35 spline ARB'd 9 inch rear, ARB'd Piece-o-**** 30 front, etc.

If you have a "It's a jeep thing" sticker then YOU don't understand!!!
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