How to replace an axle shaft and/or a wheel hub bearing assembly w/PICS!
This post has been rewritten and the images have been recovered. Here is the new link:
After a day of fun you Jeep may look like this:
On my Jeep I have aftermarket wheels so I am able to access the main hub nut with the wheel still on.
Start by removing the cotter pin:
Then the cap:
And behind the cap is a spring (shown on left):
Next, use your trusty 36mm socket to break that nut before you take off the wheel:
With the nut torqued to 175ft/lbs and rust/dirt seizing up the nut, it isn't a surprise that a cheater bar helps:D In this case it is my old tie rod.
Now jack up your axle:
And remove the wheel, place it under your sliders if you have them or under your hub in the event your Jeep falls off the jack, it won't crash onto the ground:
Next, remove the caliper bracket (2 x 18mm bolts) and hang it from the spring via wire or zip ties:
Next, on the back side of the knuckle there are three bolts. They require a 12pt 13mm socket to remove them and can be stuck on there pretty good as well. The first one is at the top, then the other two are on the lower left and lower right (imagine a triangle):
At this point you can remove the hub. In my case the outer axle shaft came out with it since I blew up the joint:
This leaves you with steering knuckle, minus the outer axle shaft:
Remove the inner axle shaft and replace:
When putting everything back together there isn't anything special to do.
Ok, I installed a new axle shaft today. After Napa shipped in an axle with busted tone rings, I picked up a remanufactured unit for $116 after tax. New units are cheaper then remanufactured units (go figure) but they couldn't get a new one until Thursday and work doesn't like me working from home all the time:D
New axle shaft:
Review what we have here to put back on, Cotter pin, castle washer, spring washer, axle-->hub nut, washer, 3 hub nuts, and a socket that doesn't belong in the picture. What is missing? The two bolts holding on the caliper bracket to the knuckle.
When you slide in the new axle, make sure the splines are clean (as they go into the diff and we want to keep that fluid clean), and try not to let it touch the inside of the axle tube much since it is dirty in there.
Toss on the hub and bolt it back up, remember these three bolts require 75 ft/lbs of torque.
Install rotor and brake caliper:
Then reinstall the tire and torque hub-->axle nut to 175ft/lbs:
Great writeup. I've had to do this so many times:cheers2:
Added install procedure...
Bump a de Bump for a great thread.
:thankyou: ARLO. This thread is what got me motivated to do my new seals today.
P.S. In the review of parts for re-install you forgot the 2 18mm bolts for the caliper.
Glad I could motivate you to spend money & wrench:D
Yep, I did this the other day as well. No fun. Especially that bolt in between the knuckle and the rotor. To hell with that one.
This should be sticked somewhere or put in the Jeep FAQ thread
It is in the FAQ and my WJ Suspension thread and I submitted it to the Tech Articles section...
this should def come in handy this week. 2 new axle shafts are on their way. thanks ryan!:thumbsup:
Hats off to you my man :cheers2: ! Changed the joints on the road! Something I would never do, you make it look so easy cant wait to bust mine so I can fix it like that LOL!
Once you do it once, the second time takes ~20-30 minutes to replace an axle shaft...less time if the bolts break easily.
Ok just something to throw in there. I bought extra bearing assemble's to make trail repair easier. This is how I carry my spare's.
notice the hub assemble already installed. Just take off wheel. remove (3) 13 mm bolts. (2) 18mm bolts and bam. New shaft. just keep wheeling.
Note: The stock cv is just a comparison shot for something else. My spare is the u-joint upgrade one.
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