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Unread 05-03-2012, 12:29 AM   #1
ozgrand
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how to remove steering wheel (to straighten)

i have lifted my wj and cant get the adjuster enough to straighten my steering wheel, can i take it off and position it myself? on wj jeeps it says to disconnect battery for a few mins to disable air bag, then 2 8mm bolts at rear of wheel ?

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Unread 05-03-2012, 01:32 AM   #2
ratmonkey
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Not a good idea.
If your drag link doesn't have enough adjustment, it's time for aftermarket steering. Or less than 8"of lift lol
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Unread 05-03-2012, 04:33 AM   #3
Rocklobster
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It's the drag link not the tierod, maybe you should do some research.
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Unread 05-03-2012, 03:23 PM   #4
squire_wj
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When I put my four inch lift my steering wheel was 180 degrees the wrong. Brought it to the tire shop got an aligment and they fixed it.
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Unread 05-03-2012, 04:03 PM   #5
kc2mrg
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x2, dont take your wheel off to straighten it, get a longer drag link, and most newer vehicles, the steering wheel is keyed anyways so you cant to that
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Unread 05-03-2012, 08:18 PM   #6
ozgrand
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It's 6.5"lift, the alignment shop said he couldnt get anymore out of it without risking running out of thread as unsure how much was left
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Unread 05-03-2012, 08:58 PM   #7
USFORCES
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Your pitman arm is off, I had the same problem you need put the steering wheel in the correct position pitman arm needs to be pointing at the brake fluid reservoir where your steering wheel is straight, you adjust it by the tie rod or drag link might have to un thread it or something...You'll figure it out I did.
Anyhow I got a free alignment the new guy couldn't get my steering wheel straight without running out of threads and it was perfectly aligned when I left when I got home I noticed my pitman are wasn't in the correct place, lol
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Unread 05-03-2012, 09:50 PM   #8
5-90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ozgrand View Post
i have lifted my wj and cant get the adjuster enough to straighten my steering wheel, can i take it off and position it myself? on wj jeeps it says to disconnect battery for a few mins to disable air bag, then 2 8mm bolts at rear of wheel ?
The steering wheel is usually "keyed" into position on the steering column shaft (double spline, commonly) as is the Pitman arm (same method.)

I believe your WJ will have a Y-link steering setup, just like our XJ. You'll be using the adjustment sleeves on the drag link (branch of the Wye that attaches directly to the Pitman arm on the steering box) to recentre your steering wheel - this means you'll have to make the adjustment slowly while a helper watches the wheel.

This also means you will have to make sure that your front wheels are pointed directly in line with the rear wheels ("travelling straight forward") or you'll end up misadjusting your steering wheel.

Adjusting the steering wheel via the drag link should not cause any difficulty with steering or alignment, since it does not alter the effective length of the steering linkage (which is done with the adjuster sleeves at the tie rod ends, just inboard of the wheels.) However, it is possible that you can "run out of adjustment" if your steering wheel is too far off - which indicates that you will need a longer adjuster sleeve or drag link.

NB: Measure the thread diameter at the drag link, you will want to maintain a minimum of 1.5d thread engagement at both ends of the adjuster sleeve (for instance, if the drag link is 24m/m thick, you will want a minimum of 36m/m thread engagement into each end of the adjuster sleeve! This is necessary to provide maximum column strength of the steering linkage assembly - in all locations, you will want to have a minimum of 1.5d thread engagement into the adjuster sleeves.

However, adjustment of the steering wheel rest position is a simple process - I've done it before. It's taken me 10-15 minutes to set up (and verify setup,) and typically 2-5 minutes with an effective helper that I trust (figure closer to 20 minutes if you don't really trust your helper, or 30 minutes if you're doing it by yourself. In any case, it should take somewhat less than one full hour, and is done easily with hand tools.)
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Unread 05-03-2012, 09:54 PM   #9
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I believe your WJ will have a Y-link steering setup, just like our XJ.
They all have crossover.

Make sure it has not been over adjusted 360 degrees, there should be plenty of thread left.
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I see you also twizzled your scart lead. Well done! :thumbsup:
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Unread 05-03-2012, 10:18 PM   #10
narnwv
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5-90 View Post
The steering wheel is usually "keyed" into position on the steering column shaft (double spline, commonly) as is the Pitman arm (same method.)

I believe your WJ will have a Y-link steering setup, just like our XJ. You'll be using the adjustment sleeves on the drag link (branch of the Wye that attaches directly to the Pitman arm on the steering box) to recentre your steering wheel - this means you'll have to make the adjustment slowly while a helper watches the wheel.
No Y-link. They got rid of that junk with the WJ.

OP: How much lift do you have that you're running out of threads on the drag link?
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Unread 05-03-2012, 10:45 PM   #11
Hussler
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No Y-link. They got rid of that junk with the WJ.
Not sure why you think its junk, do you understand the primary causes of bump steer and the effects of having a wheel to wheel tie rod?
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Originally Posted by chris87xj View Post
Sometimes a restoration project is a labor of love, at which point cost, time, and labor involved become irrelevant.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BorderC View Post
I see you also twizzled your scart lead. Well done! :thumbsup:
92 XJ with ARB's, 5" lift, too much armor, 33's and some other garbage
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Unread 05-03-2012, 10:55 PM   #12
narnwv
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Not sure why you think its junk, do you understand the primary causes of bump steer and the effects of having a wheel to wheel tie rod?
we have a wheel to wheel tie rod. Couldn't drive with out it, with no rack and pinion. Our drag link goes all the way to the knuckle, instead of taking a steep dive into the tie rod, which for sure helps prevent DW.
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Unread 05-03-2012, 11:18 PM   #13
Hussler
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Originally Posted by narnwv View Post
we have a wheel to wheel tie rod. Couldn't drive with out it, with no rack and pinion. Our drag link goes all the way to the knuckle, instead of taking a steep dive into the tie rod, which for sure helps prevent DW.
Er, okay. First, don't understand what what you man by "no rack and pinion". No straight axle jeeps have a rack and pinion. Second, the drag on a Y doesnt "dive" at all, its a straight shot from the knuckle to pitman. Doesnt matter if it did, DW is not caused by factory bends in the steering.

Imagine it this way, you have two dogs on leashes. One setup you are holding each leash with one hand (Y link) on the other setup you are holding one leash and on that dogs collar the other ones leash is attached (crossover).

Not the best example, but I'm trying to say you do not have a "trailing" wheel with Y link, which has many benefits, one being less bump steer another being less likely to suffer from DW.

The reasons many convert to crossover is to lessen their steering angles (Y link can only go so far) or go OTK. There is also the benefit of unchanging toe in when the suspension is cycling. But not DW or bump steer, your trackbar location and angles actually become more sensitive.

Out of option A or B, I chose number 3. See if you can figure out what the difference is.

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Sometimes a restoration project is a labor of love, at which point cost, time, and labor involved become irrelevant.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BorderC View Post
I see you also twizzled your scart lead. Well done! :thumbsup:
92 XJ with ARB's, 5" lift, too much armor, 33's and some other garbage
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Unread 05-03-2012, 11:23 PM   #14
narnwv
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pardon me, for some reason I thought the y-link had a knuckle-to-knuckle tie rod like the WJ, and then the drag link attached to the tie rod, instead of the knuckle like the WJs.
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Unread 05-03-2012, 11:29 PM   #15
Hussler
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Originally Posted by narnwv View Post
pardon me, for some reason I thought the y-link had a knuckle-to-knuckle tie rod like the WJ, and then the drag link attached to the tie rod, instead of the knuckle like the WJs.


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Originally Posted by chris87xj View Post
Sometimes a restoration project is a labor of love, at which point cost, time, and labor involved become irrelevant.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BorderC View Post
I see you also twizzled your scart lead. Well done! :thumbsup:
92 XJ with ARB's, 5" lift, too much armor, 33's and some other garbage
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