How to cut rear of WJ - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 18 Old 10-26-2013, 07:12 PM Thread Starter
VBJeepWJ
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How to cut rear of WJ

I have decided to cut the rear and I thought I might pay a body shop to do it and all of them recommended that I do not do it due to there being a two piece rear quarter panel. If I cut the rear there would be two pieces not connected because there is an inner and outer quarter panel. This begs the question how to I keep these two from flapping and still be structurally sound. They all said it is not possible and if I did cut it that moisture would get between the two panels and rust away. Can someone please tell me how to do this and not say not to do it lol. If it is impossible obviously say so lol.

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post #2 of 18 Old 10-26-2013, 07:54 PM
mycreativename
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You can just have mine and drive it through another winter. It will most likely just rip itself apart by then, so viola! you will have a cut rear end.



That's my rear "frame rail" where the gas tank and hitch connect.

Now back on topic. It must somehow be possible, because I have definitely seen rear end chopped WJ's before. I've also seen one WJ that had a pseudo truck bed, similar to what an Avalanche would be.

99' WJ, 2.5" Rusty's, Bilstein 5100's, JKS TrackBar, Moog SuperTrailBoss
"With enough fabbing, time & $, it's certainly possible.
That being said, it's like boinkin' your sister...just because you can, doesn't mean you should." - Double E
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post #3 of 18 Old 10-26-2013, 08:15 PM
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Search around there are good threads on this subject. The rear is reconnected "typically" by using body panel adhesive on the seam between the inner and outer rear quarter from the inside of the vehicle.

WANTED: 4" front BDS springs
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post #4 of 18 Old 10-26-2013, 08:39 PM
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post #5 of 18 Old 10-26-2013, 08:41 PM
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post #6 of 18 Old 10-26-2013, 08:47 PM Thread Starter
VBJeepWJ
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thank you I searched forever and found nothing. guess I was using bad wording. how would I do it without welding? and will it be as rust proof as stock.
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post #7 of 18 Old 10-26-2013, 08:57 PM
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A chose to weld, the next most common way is to use panel adhesive. I actually smoothed out my welds with panel adhesive as well as sealed the inside with it (think that's shown on the next few pages in writeup). If your gaps are tight, I see no reason why it would be any less rust proof. Actually I thinking just cutting the fenders makes it lest prone to rust since you remove all the foam that holds moisture.
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post #8 of 18 Old 10-27-2013, 08:34 AM Thread Starter
VBJeepWJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJSWJ View Post
A chose to weld, the next most common way is to use panel adhesive. I actually smoothed out my welds with panel adhesive as well as sealed the inside with it (think that's shown on the next few pages in writeup). If your gaps are tight, I see no reason why it would be any less rust proof. Actually I thinking just cutting the fenders makes it lest prone to rust since you remove all the foam that holds moisture.
ok thank you. It sounds like if I take my time doing it and really monitor the situation then I can make it last. I guess thats why the shops didnt want to do it because there may be a little work here and a little work there to do.
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post #9 of 18 Old 10-27-2013, 12:09 PM Thread Starter
VBJeepWJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJSWJ View Post
A chose to weld, the next most common way is to use panel adhesive. I actually smoothed out my welds with panel adhesive as well as sealed the inside with it (think that's shown on the next few pages in writeup). If your gaps are tight, I see no reason why it would be any less rust proof. Actually I thinking just cutting the fenders makes it lest prone to rust since you remove all the foam that holds moisture.
I looked at the threads that were posted and my only concern is how to do this without needing paint work. I read through all of the great post and I am curious is this possible to do without needing to paint afterwards? I will not be welding.
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post #10 of 18 Old 10-27-2013, 12:27 PM
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Paint work will be required, there is no getting around that. It's minimal though. I just used rustoleum gloss black spray paint. It's held up well. Other use spray can truck bed liner with good results as well.
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post #11 of 18 Old 10-27-2013, 12:57 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by TJSWJ View Post
Paint work will be required, there is no getting around that. It's minimal though. I just used rustoleum gloss black spray paint. It's held up well. Other use spray can truck bed liner with good results as well.
paint work on the outside of the vehicle?
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post #12 of 18 Old 10-27-2013, 01:02 PM
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post #13 of 18 Old 10-27-2013, 01:15 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by TJSWJ View Post
Yes, just like in the writeup.
Ok I think I will avoid this then. My goal was to do it without paint work. With a 3" lift what size tires you think ill be able to stuff under the bushwacker flares. I read their write-up too and there isnt any further vertical clearance/cutting. Will getting these still allow me to have larger tires. The rims will have 4" backspacing so I know this will cause problems but I have to have it to fit 15" rims.
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post #14 of 18 Old 10-27-2013, 01:51 PM
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What do you mean by "stuff"? On pavement or with full flex and steering?
So many variables this question has been asked and answered so many times.

For example: I have a true 6.5 in taller than stock. 16x8.5 w/ 4.5 BS. 265/75-16 tires
With the BW flares I can clear all thru the range of flex, EXCEPT the bumper cover.
Before the cutting for the flares, it would rub on level ground on the back corner of the wheel wells, where the lower rocker cover was (when turned)

BW says with a 4-4.5 lift you can clear a 33x12.50 on a 4 to 4.5 BS wheel... but you won't when it flex's and the wheel is turned.

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post #15 of 18 Old 10-27-2013, 02:04 PM Thread Starter
VBJeepWJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by texlurch View Post
What do you mean by "stuff"? On pavement or with full flex and steering?
So many variables this question has been asked and answered so many times.

For example: I have a true 6.5 in taller than stock. 16x8.5 w/ 4.5 BS. 265/75-16 tires
With the BW flares I can clear all thru the range of flex, EXCEPT the bumper cover.
Before the cutting for the flares, it would rub on level ground on the back corner of the wheel wells, where the lower rocker cover was (when turned)

BW says with a 4-4.5 lift you can clear a 33x12.50 on a 4 to 4.5 BS wheel... but you won't when it flex's and the wheel is turned.
I apologize what size could I fit with actually using the vehicle for offroading. Not just a street vehicle. Wondering if 33x10.5 or 32x11.5 which would be more appropriate. 4" backspacing.
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