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Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep Grand Cherokee & Commander Forums > WJ Grand Cherokee Forum > Help. . New Jeep WJ w/ electrical problems

Ruffstuff Axle Simple Swap Kit!Ruffstuff's Monster Shock Brackets!Even Better Heim Pricing! From Ruffstuff

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Unread 10-02-2012, 09:48 AM   #46
protonspring
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1999 WJ 
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: beaverton, or
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Also. . . I think there is something wrong with me. . . I've put more work into this Jeep than most cars I've worked on. Normally, this results in some animosity towards the vehicle, but in this case, it's the opposite. . . I LIKE IT! My total investment in this vehicle will be about $2200 + LOTS of hours, but it's strangely satisfying.

I think I need mental help.

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Unread 10-02-2012, 09:50 AM   #47
protonspring
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FYI: The car is being built as a daily driver for my wife (or . . maybe me). We camp occasionally, and go on family trips. The Jeep is supposed to be the official, "let's go explore" vehicle, and it looks like it's going to do great.
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Unread 10-02-2012, 09:52 AM   #48
protonspring
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Also, I plan on doing the fuel injector upgrade (The Bosch EV6 injectors?). There doesn't seem to be any reason why I shouldn't be able to get the highway MPG over 20.
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Unread 10-03-2012, 12:20 PM   #49
super98lsc
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Run synthetic oil in it. Axle swaps are easy. You will love the 3.73 gears if you had 3.55. Nice little tq bump, just remove all the 10mm bolts holding the rear brake lines to the existing axle and drop the whole unit with the arms and all right from the frame/chassis. Then with it all out of the truck its easy access to swap trailing arms, swabar and whatever else. Only need to drop the lower shock bolts. use pb blaster on all your fittings first for the brakes that little pre soak makes easy work and less chance to strip them.
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Unread 10-03-2012, 12:52 PM   #50
protonspring
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Very good advice. Thank you.

The wrecking yard guy says I'll have to change the brake master cylinder, and a bunch of other control arms. Seems like this might be too hard for me. Also, do I have to take the gas tank off?
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Unread 10-03-2012, 12:55 PM   #51
protonspring
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Also, how do I measure to have the drive shaft cut? From what I understand I will need to make it a little shorter because the housing of the 44 is longer than the 35.
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Unread 10-03-2012, 12:58 PM   #52
protonspring
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fyi: Local driveline shop charges $95 to shorten the drive shaft.
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Unread 10-04-2012, 01:51 PM   #53
protonspring
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Progress:

1. Changed the fluid in the transfer case. Transfer case fluid was like brown water. Replaced with Valvoline ATM+4.
2. Changed the fluid in the front diff. Valvoline 75w90. Grey RTV Differential gasket sealant.
3. New wipers all around.
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Unread 10-05-2012, 12:36 PM   #54
protonspring
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Update:

Ordered two new keys and a fob on eBay. I wasn't sure if they were going to work, but the local dealer programmed them all for $60. All work great.

Spotted a very small transmission fluid leak. Added some Lucas Transmission Fix + sealer.
Spotted a very small coolant fluid leak. Added some coolant sealer.

Will report in a few days.

I decided to look for an axle on criagslist for a while. Wrecked WJ's being parted out show up on occasion. Wrecking yards are charging $600 for a good axle. Seems like I should be able to beat that price if I'm patient. If I can't find a good axle in a few weeks, then I'll bite the bullet and get one from a wrecking yard.
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Unread 10-05-2012, 12:45 PM   #55
protonspring
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Work left to do (just as a log for myself):

1. Air in the coolant system. . . causes a "rushing water" sound when accelerating or decelerating.
2. Rear wiper is missing the clip to park. Dealer wants $100 for it. I'll grab one at the wrecking yard next time I'm there.
3. Headlights need polished.
4. Replace rear axle.
5. Driver seat has a rip. . find a new one.
6. Driver door panel is cracking. . find a new one.
7. Look into fuel injector upgrade (like a 4 hole Bosch or similar) for engine burn efficiency/MPG.
8. Look into a cold air intake w/ K&N filter . . . just for fun.
9. Wash the car . . maybe. (Maybe Jeeps like to be dirty?)
10. Find a stock stereo. After market stereo sucks rocks.
11. Probably more, but I'll stop there.
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Unread 10-06-2012, 02:18 PM   #56
protonspring
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Today, I propped up the front of the jeep and worked on getting the air out of the coolant system. I found the best method was to:

1. Remove the radiator cap.
2. Idle the Jeep.
3. Full heater on and full fan on inside.
3. Bubbles wouldn't come out very much unless I squeezed the upper radiator hose. So, I repeatedly pinched the upper radiator hose. Each time I did this, more bubbles came out of the radiator cap opening. About about 20 minutes of doing this, bubbled decreased (not completely though).


I do NOT hear the water rushing anymore, but the upper radiator hose still feels like it's full of air instead of full of water (It's very easy to squish). Seems like it might be an issue because air doesn't cool very well. Either way, it's much better than it was, and is probably OK. perhaps I need to do it again, but at a steeper angle?
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Unread 10-06-2012, 02:26 PM   #57
Thomahawk
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The V8 have an extra bleeding screw in front on top of the Block somewhere, not easy to explain, you Will not Get all air out without opening this screw, check this out>>>>
http://www.wjjeeps.com/service/cooling.htm

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image-1293634129.jpg  
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Unread 10-06-2012, 02:53 PM   #58
protonspring
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OK. I decided to prop up the front even more. I put my ramps at the edge of the curb. I then drove up the curb, then onto the ramps. With the rear wheels on the road, and the front wheels on the ramps on the curb, I was able to get WAY more bubbles out. I don't hear any sounds when driving around. Much better. I'll check in a few weeks for a coolant leak.
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Unread 10-06-2012, 03:00 PM   #59
protonspring
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I examined for a bleed plug, but I'm pretty sure I don't have one. I quick internet search verified this. The 4.0 does not have a bleed plug.
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Unread 10-06-2012, 03:22 PM   #60
protonspring
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Also, if I shift out of 4wd (like from 4WD FULL-TIME to 2WD) at low speed (< 10 mph), it seems to stick in 4wd part-time. The shifter shifts normal, and the 4WD PART-TIME light is NOT on, but the front axles seem to bind, makes it very difficult to turn/drive (on the road). (Just feels like 4WD PART-TIME)

I finally discovered that if I perform the same shift (4WD FULL-TIME to 2WD) at over 30mph, it shifts out just fine, and I have no binding/turning issues. The internet reveals some others with this issue. I checked the transmission fluid, and it's spot on. Ideas? How normal is this?
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