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Unread 09-17-2012, 03:16 PM   #1
protonspring
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Help. . New Jeep WJ w/ electrical problems

OK, so I thought this was a good deal. I bought a 1999 WJ w/ 140k miles for $1200. Body is in spectacular condition. After 2nd day, battery dies. New battery, and dead again the next day. I'd like to keep it, but this is getting ridiculous.

After doing some internet research, seems like this is a common problem. So far, after days of messing with it, this is what I've discovered:

1. I've measured a parasitic draw of more than 1 amp. (sometimes 2).
2. Measuring the draw, there is about 200-300ma for each JB fuse.
3. Interior lighting (dome lights) come on and turn off like normal as expected (when opening doors, etc.)
4. The little indicator lights for the power windows switches NEVER turn off.
5. Even after hours, I can reach in the window and move windows up/down.

My questions:
1. Shouldn't the power windows power down sometime?
2. Is the electrical that bad in these cars, or should I be able to get it into a stable electrical condition?

I would appreciate some help or direction from you guys in the know.

Thank you.

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Unread 09-17-2012, 03:41 PM   #2
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look at the door boot(s) where the wires go from body into the door - likely culprit would be the drivers door since that one always gets flexed ... seems to be a common place for a short

yes, the windows shouldn't work with key out of the ignition so you're heading in the right direction.
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Unread 09-17-2012, 03:42 PM   #3
Thomahawk
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1: no they Are not supoused to work after ignition Are turned off.
2: i dont belive there Are more probs with the WJ than other vehicles.

While you messure the draw, pull fuses one by one until the draw goes away, then you know which circuit to investigate.

Check inside door boot for broken wires, between door and body, commom problem.


Good luck.
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Unread 09-17-2012, 06:17 PM   #4
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Awesome. Thank you. I'll examine all of the boots for all the doors. I did notice the driver door boot disassembed, and a few wires crimped, so I reworked the ones that looked bad (some of them were actually broke loose). There were a few others that were noticably crimped, but looked OK. Perhaps I should redo those as well.

currently, I have all junction boxes fuses pulled, and disconnected. (almost every connector i could find is now disconnected). The only draw I have now is 230ma pretty much all through the ignition/starter fuse. Thanks for the encouragement. I'll gradually start putting things back together. Hopefully we'll get there. I'll try to report back occasionally.
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Unread 09-17-2012, 06:18 PM   #5
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Oh. . where is the best location for accurate circuit diagrams? It seems like I'm going to have to dive into a few circuits.
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Unread 09-17-2012, 06:24 PM   #6
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http://www.bbbind.com/tech_database.html

check out this site, all the tsb's and diagrams you could ever want
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Unread 09-17-2012, 06:35 PM   #7
protonspring
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OK. I took stuff apart under the driver dash, and found some aftermarket crap that was tapped into several wires. I took it off, but it made no difference. I'm still at 230ma, but I get down to 11ma if I pull the ignition connector. Any idea what this stuff is? Aftermarket alarm? The copper loop went around the ignition cylinder. The other wires were tapped into several wires for the ignition connector.
091712173108.jpg  

Last edited by protonspring; 09-17-2012 at 10:06 PM.. Reason: image was too big, and expanding the whole page (makes viewing hard)
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Unread 09-17-2012, 10:00 PM   #8
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Progress: I eventually figured out that the ignition was turned too far off into the accessory position. They key still comes out easily, so it's easy to believe you had shut off the car when in fact you had not.

I wonder how many people's batteries are dying just because the ignition allows them to remove the key while in the accessory position? Be careful people!!

Ignition in the correct position = 11ma

Next step . . . start hooking up a few more things until I see another spike in current.
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Unread 09-17-2012, 10:49 PM   #9
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Hooked up a few more junction boxes . . . so far so good. . . . Fixed a few broken wires in the driver door boot harness. There were a few wires that were actually broken, even though the wire sheath had not been breached (that is very strange). Looks like I've got about 80% hooked up. I'm up to 32ma (which is totally acceptable).

Next . . hook up all the doors again, BCM fuses, then get to the actual accessories (radio, tail lights, defroster, rear wiper, glass door switch, etc.)

Looks good so far, and the jeep is actually sleeping (powering down internals) now after a minute or so. This is mostly because I'm careful to actually put the ignition in the off position before removing the key).
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Unread 09-17-2012, 11:43 PM   #10
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I had the same problem when I first got my jeep. I can actually remove my key in any position.... worn keys or lock barrel I guess.......engine running or not! Just got used to removing it in the right place and don't even think about it anymore!
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Unread 09-18-2012, 04:33 AM   #11
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you shouldn't be able to remove the key in the acc position, so that's another repair you can tackle or just remember to make sure before leaving the jeep
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Unread 09-18-2012, 11:30 AM   #12
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Thumbsup, keep up the good work, a small draw like 35mA Are normal, alarm etc.
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MONEY WILL CONTINUE TO BE THROWN INTO THE RIG UNTIL CONDITION AND SATISFACTION IMPROVES!!!
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Unread 09-19-2012, 10:49 PM   #13
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I'm about 90% back together and still under 40mA. Looks like things are going to work out between us. lol

Can anyone identify that wire harness I removed? What the heck is that crap?
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Unread 09-19-2012, 10:52 PM   #14
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So, now I gotta tackle some of the mechanical issues:
1. New rotors, brakes.
2. Oil leak . . looks like from rear of valve cover.
3. The back end is VERY VERY noisy.

As far as noise in the back end (rear differential?), you guys recommend any common source. It doesn't sound like a bad noise, but you can definitely hear the gears working (like people in the back will probably have to speak up to hear each other . . LOUD).
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Unread 09-20-2012, 01:23 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protonspring
So, now I gotta tackle some of the mechanical issues:
1. New rotors, brakes.
2. Oil leak . . looks like from rear of valve cover.
3. The back end is VERY VERY noisy.

As far as noise in the back end (rear differential?), you guys recommend any common source. It doesn't sound like a bad noise, but you can definitely hear the gears working (like people in the back will probably have to speak up to hear each other . . LOUD).
If you have the QD diffs you need 75w-140 syntetic gear Oil AND add FM (Friction modifier) 2oz front 4oz rear. If not you will get bindings while turning. When you have the diff open, clean it out with brake cleaner, inspect gear visually, clean/check magnet, reassembly, refill.

Good luck.
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95 ZJ Limited 5.2 Winter Project
Sold 94 ZJ Laredo 4.0 Winter Beater
R.I.P. 2000 Grand Cherokee Limited, 4.7 V8, Quadradrive, Shale Green Metallic, Agate/Carbon interior, Well modded and highly missed :(

Buildthread http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f197/...grade-1813490/

MONEY WILL CONTINUE TO BE THROWN INTO THE RIG UNTIL CONDITION AND SATISFACTION IMPROVES!!!
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