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Unread 06-22-2015, 07:56 PM   #1
grand20
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Wj Help with 247 yoke....

my story goes like this , my wj had a cheap rubber puck 2" lift when i bought it ,,,,sagin bad, so i figured i would switch out the puck for a cheap - better BB.. so to level it out I got a 2.5-1.5 .
then i thought i might as well switch out the front springs and isolators. after installing the front end parts I drove it and the front shaft starting humming , and i understand angles and that **** shaft doesnt like them... luckley a good friend of mine has a J-yard and had a Cardone shaft and front yoke to switch out....But i am having difficulty finding a yoke for the NP247...
Can anyone point me in the right direction, i would rather buy it new if possible , or used... Will a NP242HP work also?
here is a pic of it as of today the front is at 21 1/4 back is at 19.1/2 but i still have to put the new isolators in and springs when they get here... I also add new tires today which i needed upgraded to goodyear duratrax 265-65-16...
thanks for any help u can give me...

img_2274.jpg  

Last edited by ChrisHager; 06-23-2015 at 08:11 AM.. Reason: Please don't avoid the language sensor.
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Unread 06-22-2015, 09:10 PM   #2
losttech
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I really don't know but Kolak a vendor here sells kits for conversion so he should have the part you would need I would bet just message him.
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Unread 06-25-2015, 06:23 PM   #3
grand20
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I wanted to try and stay local so I found a great shop in Livonia Mi , I was going to get a double cardone shaft but they talked me into a 2 joint setup with adapter flanges. They said they have sold a ton of these shafts without a problem with lifts. My Wj won't be seeing and major trails mostly 2 tracks up north and such, and horsepower isn't a issue lol . I literally called them at 10am and they had my shaft done by 1:30... And the price was real good. Here's a pic of the shaft and I will be installing it in the morning
image_1435278163774.jpg  
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Unread 06-26-2015, 04:03 AM   #4
losttech
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what was the cost just curious how it compares.
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Unread 06-26-2015, 08:16 AM   #5
grand20
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250 and the best thing is I have 2 u joints and adapter flanges.i would assume also that the weight loss at the tc would save on seals and bearings on the long run. we will see how it works , the workmanship and speed of building the shaft is awesome too
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Unread 06-26-2015, 11:05 AM   #6
Tollmtn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grand20 View Post
I wanted to try and stay local so I found a great shop in Livonia Mi , I was going to get a double cardone shaft but they talked me into a 2 joint setup with adapter flanges. They said they have sold a ton of these shafts without a problem with lifts. My Wj won't be seeing and major trails mostly 2 tracks up north and such, and horsepower isn't a issue lol . I literally called them at 10am and they had my shaft done by 1:30... And the price was real good. Here's a pic of the shaft and I will be installing it in the morning
One thing you should know is without a double cardan at the T case your differential pinion flange angle will have to be changed to match the flange angle of your front T case output. This is a real problem because your pinion will have to be lowered so your pinion will be actually below horizontal instead of well above horizontal as it would be with a DC at the T case. The only way to adjust the pinion angle down would be to buy a set of adjustable control arms. Adjusting the pinion angle will also change your caster angle quite a bit but how much I would hesitate to guess. IMO you would be better off by a mile with a DC driveline.

Yes a 242HD could be swapped in.

EDIT I believe that the C/L of the engine, transmission and T case angle down about 6 degrees toward the rear. So the front output would be about 6 degrees out of plumb with the top leaning toward the rear. This would mean that your front pinion flange would need to be lowered until it is parallel with the T case flange. If you do not do this your U joints are not going to be happy. All the above is the reason Jeeps front drivelines have C/V joints at least on the T case end.
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Unread 06-28-2015, 09:19 AM   #7
grand20
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so i just finished a test fit , and measured the pinion and transfer case angles , the TC is 5 degrees below parallel , and the pinion is 5 degrees above parallel ,, so the diagram off tom woods sight would suggest that a 2 joint setup would be fine, compared to a DC setup. I well ask more questions because i have to take the shaft back in and get it shorted , I dont like the amount of slip i have or dont lol
cv_angle.jpg   2joint_angle.jpg  
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Unread 06-28-2015, 12:28 PM   #8
Tollmtn
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Originally Posted by grand20 View Post
so i just finished a test fit , and measured the pinion and transfer case angles , the TC is 5 degrees below parallel , and the pinion is 5 degrees above parallel ,, so the diagram off tom woods sight would suggest that a 2 joint setup would be fine, compared to a DC setup. I well ask more questions because i have to take the shaft back in and get it shorted , I dont like the amount of slip i have or dont lol
You had better look at the conventional driveline diagram again, that is a diagram of a rear driveline so the angle of the engine in relationship to the differential is reversed. In that diagram the center lines of the engine and differential are parallel and the face of the pinion flange and T case flange are parallel as they should be on a standard 2 U joint automotive driveline.

Your flange angles are not parallel and you will find out that is not easy to get front flange angles parallel.

This is what you must have missed on Tom Woods site.

With a conventional two joint drive shaft you need to keep the out-put of the transfer case & the pinion parallel within 1 degree, and in relationship to either the drive shaft should be running at absolutely no greater than 15 degrees (this is a pushed limit).

If you cannot fall within this parameter, then you will want to pitch the differential so that the pinion points directly at the out-put of the transfer case (maintaining 3 degrees or less joint angle at the differential end) & run a double cardan (C.V.) drive shaft.

One of your C/L is 5 degrees above horizontal and the other 5 degrees below horizontal, the lines are not parallel. Here is the diagram with the lines extended so you can see how they parallel one another. The front T case angle is fixed so it looks to me like to get the recommend setting with the T case and pinion flanges parallel so a conventional driveline would work in the front you would need to lower your pinion.

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