Guinea pig new RC Long Arm kit? - Page 2 - JeepForum.com

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post #16 of 504 Old 06-28-2012, 10:28 AM
PhantomWJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tsneath
It's for my personal jeep. I've been wanting to get another grand cherokee and when I saw this kit came out it was a good excuse to go get another one.


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post #17 of 504 Old 06-28-2012, 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by tsneath View Post
It's for my personal jeep. I've been wanting to get another grand cherokee and when I saw this kit came out it was a good excuse to go get another one.
you gonna burn that crossmember on or bolt it like it was designed?

2002 WJ Limited 4.7: 6" Clayton REALLY long arms....yep, they are longer than yours SOLD : (
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BUILD: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f197/...-crap-1399123/

"In a world that he did not create, but he will go through it as if it is his own creation. Half man, half beast, whatever it is it is weird, it is ticked off and it calls itself Slash"
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post #18 of 504 Old 06-28-2012, 10:34 AM
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you gonna burn that crossmember on or bolt it like it was designed?
Excellent question. Let us know what you end up doing.

Im getting mine in August. I plan to just bolt it up, and assess things from there. If I feel it needs welded, Ill weld it.

~James

2002 Overland - 4.7 HO, "Select-Drive", 4" RC long arms, TAG front winch bumper, 32" BFG KM's, 3" exhaust, Magnaflow hi-flow cat, Flowmaster 50 series


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post #19 of 504 Old 06-28-2012, 10:38 AM
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this thread needs pics

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f197/dusks-wj-build-1272851/ - Mah build

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post #20 of 504 Old 06-28-2012, 10:39 AM
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this thread needs pics
Jeep porn...hold on ladies.
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post #21 of 504 Old 06-28-2012, 10:40 AM
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~James

2002 Overland - 4.7 HO, "Select-Drive", 4" RC long arms, TAG front winch bumper, 32" BFG KM's, 3" exhaust, Magnaflow hi-flow cat, Flowmaster 50 series


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post #22 of 504 Old 06-28-2012, 10:41 AM
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Jeep porn...hold on ladies.
This one is BIG!
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post #23 of 504 Old 06-28-2012, 10:43 AM
Dusk53
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Is this the jeep with specs in sig? If so, i bet those ironman arms look 10x better than the RC stuff in question.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f197/dusks-wj-build-1272851/ - Mah build

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post #24 of 504 Old 06-28-2012, 10:44 AM
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Yay STOCK!!!!!



But RC long arms on 32" KM2s and hopefully and Iceland bumper coming soon.

~James

2002 Overland - 4.7 HO, "Select-Drive", 4" RC long arms, TAG front winch bumper, 32" BFG KM's, 3" exhaust, Magnaflow hi-flow cat, Flowmaster 50 series


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post #25 of 504 Old 06-28-2012, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by ezflip View Post
Excellent question. Let us know what you end up doing.

Im getting mine in August. I plan to just bolt it up, and assess things from there. If I feel it needs welded, Ill weld it.
i think it requires drilling a pretty big hole (1 1/4'') into the unibody frame. i would think it would be easier to just go ahead and weld it on but im interested to see some pics of this set up

2002 WJ Limited 4.7: 6" Clayton REALLY long arms....yep, they are longer than yours SOLD : (
1998 Platinum 5.9 DD
2007 WK Overland 5.7 wifes DD
TNJEEPS.COM

BUILD: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f197/...-crap-1399123/

"In a world that he did not create, but he will go through it as if it is his own creation. Half man, half beast, whatever it is it is weird, it is ticked off and it calls itself Slash"
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post #26 of 504 Old 06-28-2012, 10:48 AM
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Not sure yet if I I will bolt it or weld it on there.
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post #27 of 504 Old 06-28-2012, 11:08 AM
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i think it requires drilling a pretty big hole (1 1/4'') into the unibody frame. i would think it would be easier to just go ahead and weld it on but im interested to see some pics of this set up
Yeah, it seems like a fairly large hole, but that section of the uniframe is pretty stout. If you really wanted to, you could drill two much smaller holes an inch and a quarter apart. That might help the integrity. All the hole is for is to insert the flange nuts...

~James

2002 Overland - 4.7 HO, "Select-Drive", 4" RC long arms, TAG front winch bumper, 32" BFG KM's, 3" exhaust, Magnaflow hi-flow cat, Flowmaster 50 series


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post #28 of 504 Old 06-28-2012, 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by ezflip View Post
Yeah, it seems like a fairly large hole, but that section of the uniframe is pretty stout. If you really wanted to, you could drill two much smaller holes an inch and a quarter apart. That might help the integrity. All the hole is for is to insert the flange nuts...
im sure design wise its fine...i just like the peace of mind knowing its welded on..of course if you cant weld or dont have access to someone who does bolting it would be easier

2002 WJ Limited 4.7: 6" Clayton REALLY long arms....yep, they are longer than yours SOLD : (
1998 Platinum 5.9 DD
2007 WK Overland 5.7 wifes DD
TNJEEPS.COM

BUILD: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f197/...-crap-1399123/

"In a world that he did not create, but he will go through it as if it is his own creation. Half man, half beast, whatever it is it is weird, it is ticked off and it calls itself Slash"
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post #29 of 504 Old 06-28-2012, 11:28 AM
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im sure design wise its fine...i just like the peace of mind knowing its welded on..of course if you cant weld or dont have access to someone who does bolting it would be easier
And being the least expensive kit on the market, it designed to be geared toward the budget minded and novice installer. Instead of having to pay a welder $100+, there is the option of bolting it on for free.

I am really interested in seeing the rear a-arm. So, tsneath, when it arrives, take lots of pics before the install. And during the install. And after the install. And when you take it out to try to break it.

~James

2002 Overland - 4.7 HO, "Select-Drive", 4" RC long arms, TAG front winch bumper, 32" BFG KM's, 3" exhaust, Magnaflow hi-flow cat, Flowmaster 50 series


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post #30 of 504 Old 06-28-2012, 11:38 AM
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http://www.roughcountry.com/images_l...ng-arm_908.jpg
I don't see a removable center section on that cross member. It looks like you'll have to remove the entire cross member including dropping your long arms to remove the transmission if it's ever necessary. Welding the cross member will make it much harder to service.
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