Got the dreaded "Rear Rattle" - Page 2 - JeepForum.com

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post #16 of 25 Old 04-22-2013, 04:22 PM Thread Starter
Shinner
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Thanks for the pointer...I think I'm going to try and replace the ball joint in the A arm (assuming it's a back yard kind of replacement that doesn't require a lift). I've not done anything since my last post in this thread. Inspection came up during that period and we told the garage about the problem. They replaced the shocks under warranty but that didn't really do anything towards fixing the problem. I can't wiggle the shocks at all, but I don't think that should surprise me. Looking at the pics the shock is sandwiched between the two mounting points pretty well. Just need to get a source for the rear ball joint part and give it a shot. If it's not the fix, I'll look into new bolts as the JU link suggests.


His : 1992 YJ (Almighty 4 banger)
Hers: 2004 WJ Columbia Edition (4.7HO)

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post #17 of 25 Old 07-15-2013, 08:39 PM Thread Starter
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OK...needing help again. Replacing the rear control arm and the ball joint did squat to address the rattle problem. So, I bought one of those bolt/sleeve kits from Kevin's Off-road. Today I pulled the shocks out and started to compare things. I also had my wife drive the WJ around the block to tell me if she still heard the rattle. Nope, just some squeaking from the rear shocks being out. Cool, sounds like the shocks are the issue. As I said, I started looking at the shocks and it doesn't seem to me that replacing the sleeve in the shocks with the one from Kevin's kit. Looks to me like Kevin's sleeve will leave a lot of gap in the shock bushing. Hope someone can make sense of the pics...maybe I don't understand things correctly.

Here's the KOR sleeve laying on top of the bottom side of the shock. Looks about the same width:



Here it is standing next to the shock. The OD of the KOR sleeve is definitely smaller than the one currently in the shock while the ID looks to be about the same.



Here's the KOR bolt next to what I believe is an OEM bolt:



Here's the KOR bolt standing next to what I believe is an OEM bolt:



Here they are standing with a KOR sleeve on each:


His : 1992 YJ (Almighty 4 banger)
Hers: 2004 WJ Columbia Edition (4.7HO)

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post #18 of 25 Old 07-15-2013, 08:51 PM
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The problem comes from the slight taper on the factory bolts. It gives the shock a little wiggle room. I would just try the new bolts nice and right. That's what fixed mine.

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post #19 of 25 Old 07-15-2013, 09:22 PM
dcorn
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I replaced my rear lower shock bolts and the rattle was still there, loud as ever.

I finally fixed it tonight. The rear passenger lower shock mount was wallowed out about 1/8". Even though I had slammed the bolt on with an impact wrench, it was still moving up and down. Welded a washer onto the mount where the ID was the same as the bolt OD. No more noise.

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post #20 of 25 Old 07-15-2013, 09:37 PM Thread Starter
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Will try the bolts themselves and see what happens. I'm not a welder so I'd have to find someone in order to give the washer idea a try.

Was interesting to see how easily the shock moved on the bolt once I took the top bolt out. Could really wiggle the shock at the bottom. Not side to side as much as up and down. When I tried this previously, I'd done it with the top bolt in and couldn't budge it. I took that as a sign that the shock mounting was ok.

His : 1992 YJ (Almighty 4 banger)
Hers: 2004 WJ Columbia Edition (4.7HO)

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post #21 of 25 Old 07-17-2013, 06:30 PM Thread Starter
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Put the bolts in today...and it looks like the rattle is gone! Thank God! Now to figure why I'm getting a whine from the right front wheel (more so when turning in one direction than the other)

His : 1992 YJ (Almighty 4 banger)
Hers: 2004 WJ Columbia Edition (4.7HO)

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post #22 of 25 Old 07-18-2013, 10:26 PM
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post #23 of 25 Old 07-24-2013, 11:30 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billzcat1
Wheel bearing.
That a pretty easy DIY job? I'm sure I've done it on a Duster but that was many moons ago (in the mid '80s)

His : 1992 YJ (Almighty 4 banger)
Hers: 2004 WJ Columbia Edition (4.7HO)

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post #24 of 25 Old 07-26-2013, 04:32 PM
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CV joint?

2000 Laredo 4.7L Selec-Trac. 177K miles, Leather, 245 tires, tow package, crappy CD changer, full size spare, roof cross-rails & sunroof.
Changes & fixes: Rear Addco sway bar & greasble bushings, upgraded headlights, upgraded tail lights, new hood struts (replaced 2X), new rear hatchglass struts, new radiator (replaced 3X), new oil pressure sending unit (replaced 4X), 2 new speed sensors, 2 new door lock actuators, new ignition key cylinder, chrome front tow hooks, Mobil 1 Synthetic 5/30, Purolator Pure One oil filter, EBC slotted & dimpled rotors, EBC Greenstuff pads, new front shocks (replaced 3X), new rear shocks (replaced 2X), new IRO steering stabilizer, new timing chain cover, new water pump, thermostat, new thermostat housing, new high pressure power steering hose, Michelin-X radials, new sunroof assembly, new single-piece lug nuts, new exhaust manifold studs & gasket on driver's side, new Durango alternator. Jeepforum.com sticker, Visit cobaltboatsforum.com when you can!
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post #25 of 25 Old 11-13-2013, 11:46 AM Thread Starter
Shinner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billzcat1 View Post
Wheel bearing.
On both sides! Not bad for a vehicle with 120K+ miles on it. Think we got out money's worth out of them.

His : 1992 YJ (Almighty 4 banger)
Hers: 2004 WJ Columbia Edition (4.7HO)

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