fuel pump removal from spare tire wheel well - Page 4 - JeepForum.com

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post #46 of 61 Old 10-12-2012, 12:20 PM
wvracer821
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That would require me to rip my plate off that i covered it with.


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post #47 of 61 Old 10-13-2012, 05:19 AM
georged
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That is a missed opportunity for all of us. How did you attach the plate? If it is not welded and there is enough interest ($$$) it might be worth removing it.
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post #48 of 61 Old 10-14-2012, 03:11 AM
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Its just got silicone holding it on lol

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post #49 of 61 Old 10-14-2012, 05:20 AM
georged
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Originally Posted by wvracer821 View Post
Its just got silicone holding it on lol
It would sure would be worth taking it off to make the pattern.
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post #50 of 61 Old 10-16-2012, 10:35 AM
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For those individuals that dropped the tank (with a jack), was there enough play in the Fuel/Electric lines to lower the tank to the ground ?

Or do you have to disconnect stuff first?

Looks like this will be on my agenda for this weekend.
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post #51 of 61 Old 10-16-2012, 11:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 85IrocZ-28 View Post
Where are all these mythical fiery death reports I hear people posting about...

JGC is the new Pinto, we're all going to die, we should all sue Chrysler...


I am sure it happens, but with what frequency and how does this compare to other vehicles? There are quite a few WJ's on the road, and I haven't ever heard of anyone on JF having problems.

I have a steel rear bumper an integrated gas tank skid. Behind that sits the factory 3/16 gas tank skid. I have no worries. Those that tuck their tanks should gain more protection from the rear structure of the Jeep. After you seal the floor area, I imagine it would be even safer than the factory location.
not stock.... in the context of this thread - some are cutting a massive hole in the steel that would otherwise exclude the fumes and fuel from entering the passenger compartment in a crash

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post #52 of 61 Old 10-16-2012, 11:38 AM
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Am I the only one who thought of aviation snips for this job? A grinder sounds like a really bad idea. At least with snips you can be sure of not exploding. Perhaps you can pry up the steel for the tank with something before you go at it?
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post #53 of 61 Old 10-16-2012, 05:16 PM
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Nothing wrong with cutting it while the tanks in. There's no way to you'll reach the tank with a grinder as low as the tank sits. Stay at the top of the well and you'll miss all the lines too. Did it myself no problems as well. But I did it to do a tank tuck not to change a fuel pump lol.



image-1922095441.jpg

I cut it out with the tank in but here's pic with the tank out sorry I don't have a pic with the tank in at factory height.



image-2339803468.jpg



image-3899395023.jpg



image-3064679588.jpg


Sorry the last 2 pics have a glare because its dark with the flash on lol. I also made a door so I can easy access to all that good stuff.
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post #54 of 61 Old 10-23-2012, 01:39 PM Thread Starter
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I did my well removal with my air nibbler..worked great...
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post #55 of 61 Old 10-24-2012, 11:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveK22 View Post
For those individuals that dropped the tank (with a jack), was there enough play in the Fuel/Electric lines to lower the tank to the ground ?

Or do you have to disconnect stuff first?

Looks like this will be on my agenda for this weekend.
IIRC, I had to disconnect the electrical (easy to reach above the rear axle) but the fuel lines themselves had plenty of stretch. I believe the lines were coiled up under the tank to allow for you to drop the tank and change the pump without stretching or breaking them.

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post #56 of 61 Old 11-23-2013, 08:41 AM
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i would def do this, loosing a fuel pump on the road or on the trail would suck... changing a fuel pump rather then paying for a tow out of the woods or the side of the road is a lot easier... I would not drop the tank in the woods or the side of the road though..

And i can think of at least one car that from the factory has an access port to change the fuel pump with out dropping the tank.. So i dont get all the comments about it being such a bad idea
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post #57 of 61 Old 11-25-2013, 11:44 AM
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This really wouldn't be a hard trail fix...not sure why so many people are worried about dropping a tank.

Most of you have installed lift kits, what is so hard about dropping a tank and swapping in a new pump? I bet that you can drop the tank and swap in less time than it would take to carefully cut a hole without hitting the tank.

If i ever did a tank tuck, I would build a sealed door/gate into my new cover. But I personally think it is more time consuming to carefully cut. 8 bolts, one electrial connection, filler hose, and drop the tank. I have done it twice by myself with a full tank of fuel.

BTW - if youy have not already purchased a bottle of anti-seize, I recommend it. If you are the one working on your jeep, it should go on every bolt you're re-installing on the suspension/body ...especially the bolts holding the hitch/skid/tank in place. My rear shock bolts were a beast....that was an interesting experience...with new bolts covered in anti-seize, I won't have that problem again.

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post #58 of 61 Old 07-06-2014, 01:06 PM
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Adding to this thread cuz I recently did mine.. Tried dropping the tank and gave up after hours of difficulty - seized bolts, etc... Used photos on this forum to locate areas to cut through spare tire well. I used a standard yellow "aviation" snips and cut a "half heart shape" so I could fold the sheet metal back into place and tape the scar. Worked great! In my case, the pump was killed by mice chewing the wires. If I did it again, I would make my hole a little bigger, to the bottoms of the ribs.
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post #59 of 61 Old 07-07-2014, 06:28 AM
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Did my one a few months ago
also used pics from all over to Mark where to cut open

pics are on the camera

self used a small angle grinder
cut slowly on the marks, never going past where I had cut through
yes it is to ensure consuming

to close, and haven't closed my one yet as busy with other things on the jeep
going to weld a lip or strip of steel on the piece that I cut out, then I will silicone it in place and add a few self tapping screws to keep it in place

it can be done without damaging the tank


hope this helps

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post #60 of 61 Old 07-07-2014, 08:38 AM
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..................or buy a diesel WJ! .....no silly pump in a inaccessible tank. Never owned a car where you had to drop the tank to get to the pump and sender. They have all had a screw down rubber sealed panel in the trunk floor or under the back seat. More great Chysler design I guess!!

If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got yourself an electrical problem!
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